skishop69

You're missing the point. They are off road lights. State law prohibits the use of off road lights on public streets and highways. It doesn't matter if you put them in a 'headlight' position. DOT compliant is not DOT approved. it means that Hella says they meet the requirements of DOT, not that DOT approved them. If it does not say DOT approved, then it's not street legal. Like Numbchux said, the cast off light is the issue. Short of aiming them straight at the ground, the cast off light around the focal beam will be high. Run them and get the ticket, just don't say we didn't try to warn you.

Those lights are not DOT approved, nor are they listed as or sold as headlights. I guarantee regardless of how you adjust them, you are going to get a ticket. CA is strict on vehicle mods. It's a great idea if it's strictly off road, but on the street, you're going to blind people. The beam for those does not have a tight focal point. They are designed to cast a wide beam around the main focal point. Just sayin'. Numbchux is right.

Ok, you'd gain some fuel economy. Here's the thing with lock up: When they started locking the TC in gears other than 4th, it was partial lockup. Only under very light throttle at cruise in 3rd & 4th (sometimes 2nd depending on the manufacturer) did it lock fully. The TCC solenoid is pulse width modulated (PWM) meaning it has a duty cycle from 0-100%. The higher the duty cycle, the more apply there was with the TCC. They did this so that partial apply would allow the engine to operate in the most efficient part of the torque curve in relation to the gear it was in. The TCM's used in the first gen Legacy hack would have been OBD1 and not capable of partial lockup until OBD2 came about. With OBD2, the TCM would be looking for information and communication coming from the ECU and without that info, it wouldn't function correctly. In addition, OBD2 needs signals from an input speed sensor (ISS) and trans fluid pressure (TFP) sensor in order to control shift pressure, shift points and TCC slip. The OBD1 trannys didn't have these sensors so I don't see how an OBD2 TCM could work even if it were hacked unless it were reprogrammed with a base control map that that didn't require any input from sensors. If that's how it was done, then I doubt that the lockup is going to be operating at the peak efficiency since it has no way of knowing engine load or slip speed so fuel savings would be pretty small if at all.

Lockup in gears other than 4th was not available until OBD2. That being said, I'd say most likely no, the later converters won't fit, but I'm not 100% sure on that and if they did, there'd be nothing to gain.

Yes, some of the parts are still available. I personally wouldn't rebuild the whole thing if just the bearings are noisy. The sychros rarely, if ever, go bad. To clarify, if it's grinding going into a gear, it's not the synchro. It's the blocking ring that's worn. It's a common misconception since the blocking ring is part of the synchro assembly, but serviced separately. It's a cone shaped bronze ring that rides on the cone shaped side of the synchro hub. When you shift, the shift ring that is moved by the shift fork slides over the outside of it pushing it against the synchro hub causing it to slow down so the speed between the two gears/shafts matches and they mesh without grinding.I would replace just the blocking ring for the gear that's grinding.

Here's the scan for the TCU and thew ECU. IMG.pdf IMG_0001.pdf

Couldn't find a pinnout for the TCU. Based on what I saw though, unplugging it should do you. Check pins 6,7,8 & 15 and see if there are any wires or if they're blank and let me know. I think you may have to wire as I stated above though because the ECU is still the same.

According to the schematics, there were EA82s with an AT and without a TCU. Not to say they're not wrong, because I've found tons of mistakes myself. Lucky for you, I also checked out the TCU version schematics. Based on what I saw there you simply, wait for it....... Unplug the TCU. OBD1 systems did not have the capability to monitor other modules to see if they were online or communicating so unplugging it should not cause a CEL. That being said, I didn't pull the TCU connector pinnout and there are about a half dozen pins not listed in the control schematics for the TCU. I will check the pinnouts tomorrow at work. There is a possibility that there may be a line to the ECU that needs to be grounded.

OK, so I had a slow day today so I had time to pull the schematics and look over them. Going on what you stated about having an EA82 and a 4EAT with no separate trans ECU, here are the things I know you'll have to do. Pin 15 of the ECU, which is a yellow wire with a blue tracer will have to be wired to one terminal on the clutch switch on the pedal box. Pin 42 which is a solid brown wire needs to be wired to the other terminal of the clutch switch. The trans range switch (TRS or Inhibitor) needs to be modified. The yellow wire with a green tracer needs to go to one of the pins on the neutral switch of the manual trans. The solid brown wire at the TRS needs to go to the other terminal of the neutral switch. You can either build a small jumper harness to connect them, remove the terminals from the connector housing and attach them directly to the neutral switch or cut the wires and solder on the neutral switch connector if you have one. This is what I would do. Be sure to use heat shrink tubing over the solder joints then tape the wires up for security. Next, back to the ECU. Pin 13 which is a yellow wire with a red tracer needs to be cut. This is the D (drive) signal for (AT) only. Pins 1 (light green wire) and 16 (light green wire with a red tracer) go to the kick-down control and kick-down monitor devices and also need to be cut. These circuits may provide feedback to the ECU that it doesn't need for the (MT). Now things get a little tricky. This is what I believe needs to happen based on the schematics for the (AT) portion tracking all connections having anything to do with (AT) only. Pin 32 which is a solid brown wire, needs to be cut. This is why I think this is our '(AT) selection' wire: The ECU pinnout has this wire labeled as 'Test mode connector (used at line end only)'. That's all fine and dandy except that it does in fact go to ground (GND). Except that with Subaru and almost every other manufacturer in the world, a GND to complete a POWER circuit is always black. A black wire with a tracer (or any color other than black labeled GND) is a return GND circuit for a sensor, not power (load) supply purposes. This is pretty much universal with automotive wiring. Therefore, this wire is not a power supply GND for the ECU and not necessary. This wire goes into the harness and then taps into the pin 42 wire which is also brown and is the switch/sensor GND for the clutch and neutral switches. It (pin 32) is also labeled (AT) on the schematic and DOES NOT got to ANY (AT) sensors or controls. Now this is based on a logical interpretation of their schematic and I'm not the engineer who came up with the system so there is a margin of error here. I do know that nothing will be damaged by cutting this wire. There is another wire that also comes into question. Pin 30 which is also a brown wire and is labeled GND in the schematics. It also goes into the harness and taps into the pin 42 brown wire and then to the black check connector but has no other function. Since it goes to the check connector, I'm pretty sure we don't need to do anything with it but cutting it won't hurt anything either. It's all on you now. lol Any wire you choose to cut at the ECU, make sure you cut it 3"-4" out from the connector so you have room to splice it back together if necessary. I would start with wiring the clutch and neutral switches, cut 13 and 32 and then see if 1 and 16 really need to be cut.

If I have time at work today I'll pull the schematics and see if I can tell you which wire it is. If not, maybe someone here could scan and email them. There's always Google.

Ok, you're second post came through while I was typing. lol You need to know if it's getting fuel and spark. First, have someone pump the pedal while you look down the carb. You should see gas squirting out with each pump. Try spraying some starting fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it doesn't, pull a plug and check for spark. If either is missing, look into why. If both are missing, I'd start looking at your ignition switch.

A few things come to mind. First check the power window switch. If this started after the windows quit working, there may be a link. It may have an internal short that's causing your draw. If you're not sure how to test it, just unplug it, charge the battery and see if it's dead the next day. Check voltage at the alternator when running. You should have 13-16 volts. Have the battery tested. You mentioned it's been raining. If you have a water leak and the water is pooling under the carpet, this may be an issue. I'm not sure, but I think there is a module or two mounted on the floor under the drivers seat. Water gets in the connector and causes corrosion which in turn creates a high resistance short draining the battery. If you have a good multi-meter, do a parasitic draw test to confirm you actually have a draw when the car is off.

Being pulled high or low refers to giving a signal voltage (high) or a signal ground (low) depending on which the ECU is looking for. Some systems even monitor the actual voltage change, so not hooking it up at all is an open and the system sees nothing when it is expecting to see something and will set a code. Setting it up to see drive all the time won't work headache free. The system 'can't' see D selected at start up or you will get a code set and possibly a no start depending on the vehicle. Also, selecting D all the time causes the ECU to use a different fuel map so your N, unloaded idle fueling would be richer possibly causing an emissions issue. If that's an issue down under. It's nothing you'd really notice though unless it set a code. Selecting neutral all the time will also set codes and again cause emissions issues due to fuel map differences. Since the ECU's are the same, then there will be a single wire that needs to be grounded or supplied with voltage to tell the system which trans is in use. You will have to examine the manual ECU pinnout and compare it to the auto ECU pinnout to find that one wire then trace it to see whether it goes to ground, voltage or possibly back to the ECU itself and undo whatever signal tells the ECU it's an auto and then you don't have to worry about D or N.

There are no slots (holes) in the cradle for the power steering lines to pass through to the rack on a non-PS cradle.

You also have to have the engine cradle. They're different between PS and non-PS.

See now, 86 year throws me off every time. If it is EA82, yes, the rack should fit. I've never seen an EA82 without power steering, but then, all my EA82 knowledge for the most part is owning XTs. Someone straighten me out once and for all! lol

I assume you dropped the engine cradle when you lifted it? If not, I suspect that would be your problem. Stock axles barely had enough angle flex in them. Add 2" and you're stressing that working angle pretty hard.

You have an EA81. The Legacy is an EJ series. The rack will not fit without lifting the vehicle and using an EA82 engine cradle and rack. You have to lift it because your lift blocks have to be stepped outwards to accommodate the wider EA82 cradle and rack. If this part is not done properly, you're flirting with disaster. You have to swap the cradle regardless since there are no power steering hose holes in the EA81 non-power steering cradle. I suppose you could get a smoke hatchet and make the holes yourself if you know where they go, but I personally wouldn't do it since heating the metal enough to cut it will weaken it. The EJ pump will work with either EA power rack, but you'll most likely have to have custom lines made since the bends and ends are different. Finding the correct EA81 cradle and rack will be less of a headache than trying to hodge-podge all your mismatched pieces together. IMO....

Right, but the ECU doesn't care how many times neutral is selected as long as it's not selected when it sees engine load along with increase in RPMs and speed. Also, if it sees either D or N constantly pulled high, low or open, it will set a code.

IIRC, it had to do with the neutral switch on the trans and the fix was wiring a relay to the clutch pedal switch in some fashion. I remember reading it quite some time ago, but not the exact details nor do I remember seeing a post on the the actual fix. It was one of those, 'You could do this' scenarios.

Those were the measurements I couldn't remember. Thank you.

You can only use the EA81 flywheel if it is the same diameter and thickness as the EA82 as I stated above. You have to use the EA82 clutch components with the 5spd trans. If your EA81 did not come with the larger flywheel, then you have to grind the case. IIRC, the starter position is different as well from the EA81 trans to the EA82 trans in some way, so again, you have to have the bigger EA81 or standard EA82 flywheel.

You can use the EA81 flywheel if it is the bigger diameter 84 and up though there were still two sizes, otherwise you have to use the EA82 flywheel and grind the block side of the bell housing. It's not about machining things, it's about the diameter of the flywheel to accommodate the larger EA82 clutch. Machining comes in when you use the XT6 clutch on an EA82 flywheel. As I understand it, you can't get the XT6 disc separate anymore so it's a moot point not to mention there's no reason to put one behind an EA81. A plain old EA82 clutch behind an EA81 is more than sufficient.

Call Motorworks in Spokane Wa. Ask for Dave. They can still source EA81 'kits' or at least they could a year or so ago. I doubt they have any oil pumps though as these now seem to be extinct except for popping up on eBay.

Geez Gary! What's with all the problems lately? lol You could have bad or weak contacts inside the ignition switch. I've replaced a few over the years on different brands of cars exhibiting this same symptom. Piggyback a test lamp onto the solenoid control circuit and watch it when you crank it to see if it dims or blinks momentarily.