skishop69

There should drain holes in the bottom of the doors. Check to make sure they're not plugged. If the door doesn't have any, check the outside window felt, channel gasket and pass through boot for gaps or not being seated right. If nothing is obvious, pull the inner door panel, get in, close the door and have someone spray water around the door while you look for leaks. I don't recall ever seeing a door with no drain holes, or one that was completely sealed on older cars.

Engine braking only saves fuel on EFI cars, not carb'd. With EFI, after a few seconds the ECU goes into decel mode cutting the fuel to protect the cat. With a carb, the engine is still drawing vacuum, so it's still drawing fuel. The fuel savings for EFI cars is miniscule at best.

They may have overfilled it, but it looks like standard old age leaking that all our trannys do. If they didn't overfill it, it has nothing to do with the clutch job. Truth be told, you were probably low on fluid in the tranny before the clutch, so the leak was not apparent. Now that it's full, the bad seal is leaking and the oil is dropping on the exhaust creating the burning odor you're getting.

What you are experiencing is normal. If you push the clutch in when you let off the gas, it won't happen. If your brakes were hanging up enough to cause this, they literally be smoking when you got to where you're going. Auto trannys don't have a direct couple to the engine due to the fluid coupling in the torque converter so when you let off the gas, it allows an almost like neutral coast down. With the clutch, it is directly linked when the clutch is engaged so when you lat off the gas, the engine drags down the tranny and the car.

Testing continuity how? I certainly hope not by sticking the test probe or a paper clip into the terminal. This can damage a female terminal by spreading the contacts causing an intermittent connection.

That's why I always have my come along, high lift jack and 20ft of logging chain when I go out. Been able to get out of anything with those three items. Once in a 10ft deep kelly hump with a broken front driveline in a full sized Jeep J10. Worth their weight in gold! Great pics!

There is no kit, but it can be rebuilt. The bearings you can get through almost any bearing supplier, but you'll have to get the numbers off the bearings inside. The Subie numbers won't cross. I researched internal hard parts some time ago, and the cost of 2 or 3 internal parts is more than a used tranny. You can price it out, but I'd just get a used tranny. 5spd failures are pretty uncommon.

+1 There is no other place for exhaust to enter the coolant. The block check says bad, it's bad.

Ok, but Lego's aren't old gen. Just pointing out they'd be better listed in the current gen section or parts FS. As Bratman pointed out, the only old gen they'll fit is the XT6 or a modded EA81/82 platform. Lego's are EJ platform.

Ok, you got me with that. lol

Those won't fit any older gen Subies. You need 4 on 140. Subie and Puegot only. Think I spelled that wrong. lol

There is a mixture control solenoid inside the carb that is controlled by the ECU based on the O2 readings once it warms up and goes into closed loop. You have to make sure you have a carb with this solenoid or it won't pass Ca emissions. I'll check schematics later for the ECT sensor.

I believe the frame rails of the EA71 (1600) Brat are narrower and the EA82 will not fit without cutting and welding. I remember seeing that somewhere. I would never substitute an EA82 for any Subaru engine. It's not that they're a bad engine, but the cooling system was barely big enough to support the engine and they have to be maintained religiously. Do the EA81 swap and stay away from the turbo versions of either. Turbos are nearly non existent for replacement and are at the failure age. Finding one to swap in and work correctly can be costly. If cost isn't an issue, then no worries.

I ordered from RockAuto and received 2 Subaru OE bushings in the box. I'd probably go poly if I had to do it again.

All the EA81's take the same lower control arm busing. You need to make sure it's the bushings and not the strut top hat. I also hope you have a torch and a press or at least a BFH and a lot of time. The old bushings can be quite stubborn to remove.

It is toast. It looks like it cracked all the way through. I don't remember ever seeing a crack in the exhaust port. That is no bueno.

There are no fender flares specifically for Brats or any of our older gen Soobies for that matter. You'll just have to start looking at universal flares or ones designed for other rigs, take measurements and start modifying. I don't remember ever seeing anything here about someone doing it, but with all the lifted rigs we have, maybe someone has done it. It's definitely doable.

Crap, that's right. our stuff is 1/8".

NP. You may have to order an install kit that the T comes with. Also, Firestone makes a T fitting for 1/4" lines, push in on each side with a 1/4" NPT fitting at the T that you could fit a schrader to. etrailer.com carries them for $7ea.

Well, I'm in the Seattle area so they have them at the hub and my store just brings them in. Being rural, you'll probably have to have them ordered.

It's generally not a good idea to reduce the capacity of an oil pan as it not only lubricates, but cools the inner components as well. If you do chop it, you'll have to shorten the oil pickup as well. Make sure you get the weld on the tube perfect, or you could introduce air into the oil pump and that's no bueno. Personally, I wouldn't do it. Put in a skid plate.

Napa has them.

Hmmmm.... I'll have to look at mine when I get home. The spare tank I have has no such lines. I would imagine one of them is a fill vent and you'd want that or else it will burp fuel while you're filling it and keep shutting off the filler nozzle.

You need the baffle and the other lines. The baffle holds fuel in place around the pickup so that when the fuel level is low and you accelerate, corner or climb a hill, there is always fuel surrounding the pickup or you suck air and stall. Other lines? There are only the three.

IIRC, the slider has a different width/thickness frame an requires a different gasket. If the gasket is hard, you can wipe it down on the outside and in the channels sparingly with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). That will soften it up. I mean sparingly, because too much will soften it so much that it will tear when you try to install it. don't soak it, just a quick wipe. Use Q-Tips for the channels.