skishop69

I've never seen lifters wear appreciably unless the engine was seriously abused with poor oil and oil change intervals. You need to take a measurement and compare it to another lifter to determine if there's excess wear. Cams on the other hand will wear regularly with lots of miles and more so if the two items above were factors. You'll need to call a reputable Soobie dealer and have them check if it's still available. I can't imagine they would be, but stranger things have been found.

Why can't you rebuild the one you have or have it rebuilt? The only thing that kills these EA81's is a rod through the case.

90% of the time, valves hang up because the guide is worn or scored. The stem will catch in the guide when it tries to go back up at a slight angle instead of straight up as it normally would. It's not that it's actually hanging open, it's just hanging up for a fraction of a second or so as it's closing and then coming to rest unevenly on the valve seat so there's only a partial seal.

The reason you have low compression on both cylinders but only one shows higher leakdown, is that you have valves that are hanging up when closing. Based on your description, I'd say intake valves. I've had to do leakdown tests 3 or 4 times on a cylinder to catch a valve that was hanging up. The fact that you heard excessive air coming out the crankcase indicates worn rings which equals blow by. Is it bad enough it's soaking the air filter? If it's not, and it's not fouling out the plugs, then I wouldn't be too worried since the only fix is tearing it down, taking a snap gauge to check the cylinder bore and throwing in new rings. Providing the bore isn't scored. I'm not a fan of miracle in a can, but you could try Engine Restore. I have used it in the past with decent results but it only works with cylinder related issues. Got one cylinder bumped 40 psi.

I haven't had a chance to review the BIN yet. A week before last Tuesday, the roof blew off my deck so I've been dealing with damage control and the insurance. It used to be attached to the the deck and the roof on the second story of the house in the back. Tuesday morning, it was in the front yard laying against the house. May not sound too bad, but this was a 20'x30' all steel roof weighing in at 2000 lbs. Had to bring in a crane to get it off the house and dismantle it. Happy New Year to me.

+1 It will fail.

I would say more than a project considering they're different HP engines. Cruising would be ok once you managed to sync the carbs, but under a good load, she'd most likely get squirly. The biggest nightmare would be linking the gear boxes and they would have to have the exact same gear ratios as well as final drive ratio or serious carnage will ensue. lol It is hella cool though. Wish there were more pics.

Ok, so I plugged the BIN into the tuner and as I figured, no go. The HEX converter didn't like it either. When I have more time, I'll sit down with it and one of my stock GM BINs and see what I can make out. MPFI also came non turbo in 88. The maps that I mentioned will be in there somewhere including spark. It was an OBD1 requirement that the ECU be able to control spark and fuel to maintain emissions limits under all conditions.

In regards to the post you made in the other thread, I believe the intent here is to gain access to allow tuning. If that is the case, the things we should be able to change are as follows (and this is from memory as I haven't tuned anything OBD1 in years) : AFR table: This is the air/fuel ratio table based on RPM vs MAP or MAF (engine load). Spark table: This is the spark curve, again based on RPM vs MAP/MAF. PE table: Power enrichment. This function acts as an accelerator pump and is based on TPS vs MAP/MAF. It's how much longer the injector(s) will pulse for when the throttle is stabbed to eliminate the dead spot. OL ECT: Open loop engine coolant temp. This is the value at which the system goes into open loop and stops using the base maps which will be stored on either a separate ROM or in the processor. AFR: You can actually change the air/fuel ratio here from 14.7:1 to whatever you want. Generally, there's no reason to unless you are trying to mix fuels, inject methanol or you're having trouble with a knock you can't get rid of. Spark knock table: Also based on RPM vs MAP/MAF. This is how much advance the ECU removes when knock is detected. There are some other tables and values to play with, but those are the main ones. Based on the physical engine design, I don't see more than a 10% gain in HP or mileage by tuning unless mechanical mods are made. Wow. Love how the posting gave itself it's own indenting and sentence spacing. lol

Oh my brain hurts. I'm way past rusty. For what it's worth, it does appear the hex designation is the same. That's about as much help as I'm going to be for that portion. lol As for the address space, 000F seems to stick in my brain, but that would be in regards to whatever PROM GM was using back then and I can't check that until Tuesday which is when I'm going to try and plug the BIN into a tuning program just for gits and shiggles.

C'mon now. I was just pointing out what we'd need . I used to have some experience in this, but that was many, many years ago and I'm way too rusty to even begin to take a crack at the code. The tuning portion is another story. I'm glad you have the expertise necessary to try because I really would love to see it done and my limited experience is nowhere near your level. "If we shadows have offended, think but this and all is mended..."

Ok, so in regards to my post in the other thread.... Great! You were able to read the ROM! We still need someone who knows or can deconstruct the coding for the processor so we know which parts of that hexadecimal log can be safely altered. Without that coding, we have no way of knowing how to alter the log. PM me so you can send me the BIN and I'll try plugging it into a tuning program to see what happens. Maybe we'll get lucky, but I'm not holding my breath.

Just because the data shows it switching doesn't mean it's in CL or that it's even actually switching. Some manufacturers built in algorithms for the ECU to follow under certain circumstances, so it may show switching, but it's not. This only applies to OBD1 systems. I've done a lot of OBD1 tuning and I can tell you that OL is based on ECT first and then O2 cross counts. The smaller the engine, the lower the ECT for OL as it warms up the CAT quicker, but every manufacturer is different. Therefore, time to OL cannot be calculated precisely as it depends on manufacturer coding, engine temp and cross counts. As for reading the BIN file, you can't do it without deconstructing the OS coding so you can read the hexadecimal format the BIN is written in. Manufacturer coding is different across the board, so you can't just pull the BIN file, plug it into a tuning program and expect the program to read it. Even if you could open the file, all you'll see is the hexadecimal log which does no good without the coding to read or change it. As far as the coding goes, you'd need someone who actually knows the old Subaru coding or someone who is a coding expert to decrypt it. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from trying as I'd love to see it hacked, but it is going to be a huge undertaking that requires expertise.

It's actually based on engine temp for OBD1. Well, coolant temp and O2 cross counts, but ECT has priority. Depending on the software in the ECU, that can be anywhere from 100 degrees to 140 degrees so there is no set time. Since no one has cracked the older Subaru BIN files in the ECU, we don't really know where they set their temp in relation to O2 cross counts.

Plug the idle control valve inlet and see what happens. Sounds to me like it's stuck.

Definitely aftermarket. Cruise control sensor perhaps?

It's the same flywheel. Remember to get it drilled to fit the EJ.

I know there are a few guys here that have done it, though I don't recall who. It involves using the front WRX struts, knuckles and a different master cylinder. That's about as much as I remember. I do recall quite a bit of modding to get the fronts and rears in, including building hybrid axles using the EA81 axles and I think EJ outter DOJ's. Hopefully someone will chime in with the winning combo.

It is a good possibility they killed it as Dave said. You need to load test it to be sure. The volt gauge in EA81 cars is notorious for reading low so I wouldn't put a lot of faith in it. I would also remove and clean the ground to the block and body as well as power to the starter. AGM batteries are the way to go as they are much more dependable especially in extreme temps. Batteries can be strange critters. I still have the factory battery in my 1996 Suzuki GSF. 20 years old and still works. Go figure.

They say everyone has a doppelganger somewhere in the world. I guess we can apply that to cars now. lol

That is an awesome analogy! And soooo true....

If you mean the actual steering wheel shifts from one side of the column to the other as you turn, then your upper support bearing is toast. It may or may not be a serviceable part and may or may not still be available if it is. You'd have to call a dealer to check. if it is shifting like that, DO NOT drive it. The wheel could lock up on you and that would be no bueno. Easiest fix would be a used column from the jy.

Sounds like they still didn't get the windshield sealed. My Brat had to go back twice because younger window techs have no experience with the old rubber seals and butyl tape has to be used on our cars when installing. It's also possible the windshield frame could be rotted in a small spot and they missed it. Take your garden hose and tape it to the roof where the water will run over the area you suspect then crawl inside and check the area where the the leak seems to be. I'd remove the glove box for a better view.

That's it. No pitch stopper combined with weak tranny mounts. When you gas it hard, the engine wants to tip forward from the torque causing the rear of the tranny to lift up changing the physical distance between the lever in the vehicle and the lever on the tranny. The EA81 & 82 tranny mounts were kinda hokey anyway. Check them and the engine mounts to make sure they're not going soft.

You used the three lines on the flywheel starting at TDC #1 to set the timing belts turning the crank 1 full revolution after installing the first belt to install the second?