skishop69

It automatically switches when a tape is played in the optional tape deck. There's a write up here for how to convert the plug to an aux input.

It is more likely the dimming pot in the headlight switch as I've seen this before. Replace it as planned after checking the power out to the dash lights and you should be ok. I am assuming you checked the fuses. lol

That is an AWESOME score, If you paid less than $2k and it runs, you stole that! I agree you should clean the fuel system and get it running first to evaluate, then follow Turbosubarubrat's advice. Doing it now will save you a lot of little headaches down the road. Congrats!

Even though you've installed the Weber, I'll say this so you know. The carb with the four prong connection is a computer controlled carb. Solenoid "F" is the mixture control solenoid. The two carbs are not interchangeable. You can put a non computer controlled carb on computer controlled vehicle, but not the other way around. If you do, it will run too rich and give you more grief with the emissions crap.

I'm with Naru on this. Add to that the EA81 series had weenie alternators to begin with and really didn't have enough power to run the wipers, lights and blower. The voltage spikes are definitely a regulator issue which means replacement so you might as well do the Maxima alternator swap and be done with low power output issues. I did it to one of my Brats, No more slow wipers and dim lights. Great upgrade.

Hard to tell with your audio and the exhaust leak noise, but I do hear what sounds like a rod knock to me. Definitely not a tick noise.

You need to make sure you're spinning it the right way and watch both the speedo and odo for movement. If the odo moves and the speedo doesn't, the speedo head is toast. It is possible to have the gear in the tranny stripped and still spin without the cable on. Put the cable back on and it loads the gear so now it just slips.

Do you mean EJ swapped as in they put in an EJ engine? Easiest way is put it in neutral and push it. It should roll easily. If it doesn't, you've probably got different ratios. Any idea what year, make, model the swap came from?

How the hell did I miss axle seals and think crank seal? Another Polish moment. Crazyeights is correct.

Ok, so one last nay say and I'll move with advice. You will loose horsepower and fuel economy with this and most likely not be happy with the end result. On to some help. You'll first need to look up the BTUs for gasoline and E85. Do the math and figure out the percentage of power loss in BTUs with E85. Use that percentage in your above math (which is theoretically correct) to figure your new jet sizes. You'll have to drill out the slow (pilot) and fast (main jets) for both the primary and secondary circuits. The jets in the top under the air bleed jets are the pilot jets and the two in the bottom are the main jets. The rest are air bleed jets and do not follow a linear based increase like fuel jets do. I've long since forgotten the size relationship between them, so you'll need to read up on it to make sure you get them to the right size. Depending on the size change in the fuel jets, you may not need to change them. All of that work should wait until you can source a brass float, E85 resistant accelerator pump plunger and check ball. The check ball will be tricky because it has to be plastic of some kind. A metal check ball is too heavy and will hinder fuel flow into the pump chamber.

You can't use E85 with a Hitachi carb or very few carbs I am aware of. You also can't use it with a dated fuel system. It will eat up your rubber lines, the float for the level sender in the tank, the float in the carb, the plastic check ball for the accelerator pump and the accelerator pump itself. I deal with E85 vehicles regularly, and it takes special lines, plastics and other materials to protect against it. Many of the parts you need to change are not and never were available for the Hitachi. You're also looking at a minimum 20% horse power loss due to lower BTU's of E85 on a already small horse power engine. Last thing: If you use E85 in this fuel system, you WILL destroy it.

Pop the seal out carefully with a hook tool and don't scratch the crank. Lube the inside of the new seal with oil and gently tap it in with a small hammer. Use a 1/4" drive to seat it flush. Tap it lightly going in a circle around the seal. If you have a piece of thick walled steel tubing or pipe just slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the seal, you can use that and a block of wood over the opposite to drive it in. Either way, use minimal force to hammer it in until seated.

Napa has the axles. You'll still have to tell them 23 spline because the monkeys who wrote the parts interchange that everyone uses didn't know wth they were doing.

Right. As I stated, other than shutting off the fuel... It can't cause the car to idle up. That was my point.

Idle solenoid? They don't have an idle solenoid. Some had an idle up vacuum pod if it had AC. That solenoid is the anti diesel or shut down solenoid. All it does is open on key on and close on key off to stop fuel in the idle circuit. Other than shutting off fuel, it has no effect or control of idle speed.

The exhaust Y pipe has to be modified as it won't fit around the EA82 cross member. I don't remember if the down pipe has to be modified as well. Yes, contact Shawn for sure since you're in Denver. I would have him do it unless you know for sure the other place is reputable and knows what they're doing.

That's good info Turbosubarubrat. I did not know they weren't producing them. I did read here somewhere that someone had shortened the step on their EA82 flywheel like a 1/16th of an inch to gain more clamping force with the EA82 clutch st up.

I'd have to look it up to be sure, but I believe the ER27 has a smaller step. The ER27 pressure plate has more clamping force. The discs are the same except for the spline count. That spline count is only for the ER27 with the 5spd AWD trans.

If you want more holding power, you have to have your EA82 flywheel stepped to the ER27 specs, use the XT6 pressure plate and an EA82 disc.

Great, you made me go out in the rain and look.... Yep, there's a hole there. Scratch everything I said. DOH!

Yes, that's the one. It seals the oil passage to the cam.

I don't bother to check them unless I have a runability issue and it fails a leakdown test. Then, as Downwash said, use rubbing alcohol (or brake clean) or WD40. The reason you don't use water has nothing to do with rust. Water has a very high surface tension compared to alcohol and WD40 and will just sit there unless the leak is drastic.

Looks to me like the casting has broken away. There are a few ways to fix that since it appears to be an oil drain passage and would not be under pressure. The first would be to have it TIG welded. That will probably run a $100-$200 depending on the shop. Second would be to JB weld it shut if you have the head off and can clean it up inside and out. Last would be find a used head from someone here or at a PicknPull. Depending on shipping, it may be cheaper than welding.

I ordered mine from Rockauto and what I got was factory Subaru bushings in the box. I was pretty amazed. Those were factory rubber though, not poly bushings.

That's awesome!