skishop69

That is the float bowl vent solenoid. It should open with the ignition on. If it blows the fuse when connected, it's shorted internally. It has nothing to do with the FPCU. You do need to replace or bypass it or you'll have power issues when cruising under a load. The FPCU only turns the pump on when it gets a signal from the distributor that the engine is indeed running. If it doesn't get that signal, no pumpy. You'll need the schematics to see exactly what does what and test it. I don't have access to mine right now. If memory serves, the negative side of the coil goes to the tach, the FPCU and the ignitor. There are two fused power circuits coming into the FPCU powered buy fuses 14 and 15 IIRC. One circuit out to the fuel pump and one to the choke. Couldn't tell you the colors or pins right now though.

I based it on industry standards I see in the picture for it. Orange cables are high voltage, 100v or higher, typically 150v, 240v or 360v and these are DC (as in D Ceased if you touch them live) though the connector and number of cables indicates a three phase motor. The amount of current at 12v needed to supply a 5hp DC motor at the max RPMs to run a SC could not be produced by a typical automotive alternator. Calculations would vary, but as an example, you would need to add two batteries and a 200A aux alternator to your current charging system to come close to powering it in a continuous mode.

Yes, and as I stated before, you have to be able to produce high voltage three phase power to run it. Not safely feasible on an EA81.

Do it as an experiment if you really feel the need, but EDF's will NOT work. Subarubrat beat me to it... Physics will not allow it. It can't be done. Read up on your basic physics for airflow, then dive into SC and TC principals of boost and follow it up with flow dynamics of intakes. Understand what you're trying to do before doing it, then, if you really want, build a small scale single EDF setup to see that it can't work. Here's the basics of why not: Like Subarubrat said, "An axial flow compressor CANNOT compress into a volume." Put the EDF in a tube. It already has it's own 'mini tube' which is it's housing, but this will help you see what will happen. Crank it up to full speed and seal the outlet. Not only will there be no pressure in the tube on the outlet side, but you will notice some air coming out the inlet side. Due to the space between the blades themselves and the housing around the blades, compressing cannot physically happen because too much air can escape. You will also notice and increase in RPM's of the EDF as previously noted by Subarubrat. Iceageg likened this to cavitation of a boat prop (great analogy) but what's actually happening is you're creating a void around the propeller where the air coming in equals the air trying to come out so in essence, a vacuum. Now for your control issues. The EDF's themselves would have to be tied to a TPS that would control their speed in proportion to the throttle blade opening so that airflow out of them (IF they could compress which they can't) would stay within the correct flow ratio. You can't put a knob on the dash or just let them run willy nilly. Leave them up full at idle, too much ir, not enough fuel, you burn up the engine. Leave them too low at high RPMs, not enough air, too much fuel and you foul the plugs. Now lets cover the insane amount of bucking the engine is going to do if you try to manually control flow with the throttle blade constantly changing position as you drive. Most people who drive aren't capable of driving, chewing gum and changing the radio station at the same time let alone real time tuning which would pretty much be what you're doing. Actually worse since you're not using software to do it. It'd be like trying to manually steer the Enterprise at warp speed. Yeah, I went there...

+1 and very well written. One thing to add on your requirement of roughly 170 CFM at full throttle. That number is based on near static (freeflow) airflow. Meaning you have very little vacuum at this point and no pressurized airflow. In order to build the pressure necessary to create an actual boost to engine power, there is a lot more math involved and in keeping to your Cliffs Notes style, we'll say a minimum of triple that amount at WOT with a minimum boost of say 4-5psi.

There is a reason there are no electric SC's. The power requirement necessary to move X-amount of CFM at Y-amount of pressure = TFM. (You figure the meaning. lol) It's very much like E=MC2.The faster you spin it, the more resistance you get pressurizing the air. The more resistance you get, the more power you need to feed it. You can see the ugly loop here. Utilizing 12v from an automotive source will not suffice based on the size of a 12v electric motor to flow the necessary CFM and pressure. Simple horsepower ratio. Maybe a 300A alternator converting to 120v AC, stepping up to 480v AC and then converting to 3-phase. The short. It can't be done with 12v.

You'll need a smaller SC. The one Scooby is going to use is way too big. It needs to come from an engine of similar displacement. He'll have to more than double the size of his crank pulley to bring the volume of air coming out down to a usable amount. Doing so is going to increase the HP lost to run it and effectively kill the bottom end torque he's trying to gain. I believe there is a factory SC from a Mini Cooper that would work.

Obviously you've cut the floor to fit it in so you'll have to modify a factor console to work or buy an aftermarket boot kit. I modified the shelf the shifter mounts to as well as the linkages so it sits in the same hole which I believe is what most do. Jerry sells a kit with all the pre-fabbed parts to install so it goes through the factory hole..

Can't help with the SPFI swap as I have yet to install mine, but the alternator does not have a ground wire. It grouns through the case. One single wire connection to the stud on the alt and the plug with two wires for the regulator. Depending on which version of Maxima alt you have, it may plug in or you may need to remove the terminals from the housing and plug them into the alt. Also, you can remove them from the housing and install them into the Maxima housing if you snagged it.

You own an old gen Subie. There is no 'security'. lol 10 seconds with various techniques and they're inside. Another 10 seconds with a screwdriver and visegrips and the car is running and gone. Hidden kill switches like you want are your best bet. All the effort of messing with cylinders and keying really isn't going to slow them down. One switch for ignition power to the coil and one for the fuel pump hidden in different locations is the way to go. Thieves will only spend 30-60 seconds to get the car started after entry and if they have to go hunting for things, they'll generally move on. I fractured a law or two in my younger, really, REALLY stupid days. On a side note, I can tell you from experience that karma will come back around for collections due.

All I did was just remove and plug the EGR vacuum line. I've never notice a loss of mileage nor have a noted a significant gain in power though there did seem to be a little under WOT. I did it just as an experiment, but never hooked it back up. lol

Just checked. Different trailing arm set up.

I never paid attention on the EA82 arms, but I've had the EA81 arms off many times and I still don't see it making any appreciable change in camber (talking 10ths of a degree here). Add to that, I don't recall seeing anything in the FSM regarding rear camber adjustment for EA81. I also just pulled out my vintage alignment book (it's all I have access to for this at work) and it says no rear camber adjustment for EA81. I'm not definitively relying on it, but unless it's in the EA81 FSM, I don't see it working without mods to the trailing arms. Like I said up top, you can do it, it's just not going to do anything to change ride quality. Edit: Just got access to the FSM for the Brat and it states no rear adjustment for camber or toe. Different set up. EA81 - single trailing arm, Ea82 - dual trailing arm according to FSM. I can verify that when I get home to eyeball both.

That's EA82. OP is for a Brat. EA81.

You're looking at a lot of man hours to swap harnesses just for that. I'm doing the same thing to my 87.5 XT GL10 but I just grabbed the necessary hard parts and will run my own wiring. Ever pull a dash out of an XT? I have twice, and it's not worth doing to add something 'fun' IMO. Hell, it's barely worth doing to keep your heat and AC. lol

Unless the XT is turbo, the heads won't work without modification since they're missing the oiling and cooling ports for the turbo.

Putting a different engine in it will result in the same nightmare as your VW. CA is very tough on OE restrictions. You'd also have to change the ECU and the engine harness, and possibly the main harness, though I don't know for sure as I'd have to check schematics and pinouts. Someone else here will know that one for sure. Best bet is a used turbo motor or rebuild one. The swap GD wrote up is for putting SPFI from an EA82 on an EA81 though you can carb or inject either.

So reading your post and looking at what you did, it appears you left the yellow wire from the dizzy to the ECU intact and just back tapped it with the MS tach output. If so, I'm pretty sure you can't do it that way. The MS circuit is going to mess with your output from the dizzy, and that's what controls the injectors via the ECU. Older system dizzy outputs are higher current, analog while newer systems use a digital, low current signal and using both on the same circuit is not compatible. I suspect the MS is interfering with the signal from the dizzy. There's really no need to use the tach output from the MS since the dizzy supplies the tach output to the car.

Yes, they will reduce body roll, but as far as overall cornering, IE: higher speeds, that's where you need to address camber. I built longer control arms. I'm not one who hacks up existing body structures or removes material from critical components. It looks to me like you'd have to hog out your strut tower holes to get those camber plates to work correctly and that's just something I wouldn't do for structural safety reasons. When I was a medic, I rolled on quite a few accident scenes caused by unsafe mods, so I just steer clear of removing things without proper reinforcement to compensate.

Yep. No idea why I typed negative. Totally botched that one. Thanks for catching it. Wrong term aside, the rest is still correct and stiffening the springs is not going to have the effect he's hoping for. It will reduce a bit of the body roll, but until the camber issue is corrected, the tire is still going to fold underneath creating understeer. If money is an issue, don't waste it on springs thinking it's going to magically fix steering geometry issues. I've messed with it for years on my '84 and you have to fix the camber first. They all ride soft in the front and like a brick in the rear. It's just how they were made.

The spring stiffness is not your issue when cornering. It's the negative camber it has that can't be adjusted out. You can stiffen the springs all you want, but until you fab new lower control arms to get positive camber, it's going to corner like crap. The negative camber causes you to roll up on to the sidewall when turning hard or fast. This forces more compression on the suspension and effectively 'folds' the tire under the vehicle and creates understeer.

I agree, it can fracture, but it is actually far less common than wire fractures using the butt splices. What you listed is exactly what I was referring to. Heat cycling to the wire can be a factor, but if you are using the correct temp and tip, it really isn't an issue. It does take practice to get right and if you don't want to practice, or aren't confident in your soldering skills, the shrink butts work just fine. Like I said, this is just industry standard best to worst. Done correctly, the shrink butts are a very close second to soldering. I do use them on occasion, I just prefer the guaranteed connection of soldering. Thanks for the input guys! Edit: Yeah, missed the nuts. NEVER, never, never, use wire nuts! Oy vey! lol

OK, so why don't we start with specific problems you are having.

Since everyone likes to do their own work and mods, and electrical is one of those things that everyone thinks they know how to do, I thought I'd post this and hopefully save some people some frustration and headaches at the very least and disaster in a worse case scenario. Chose the right wire: Say you've got your garden hose out and you hook it to the fire hydrant and turn it on. BOOM! It blows out. Current is essentially electrical "pressure". Choose a wire with too small of a gauge and you will overheat it and melt it or worse. You certainly wouldn't use a 22 gauge wire for a 20 amp circuit. If you don't know what gauges are adequate for what loads, a quick Google search of wire gauges vs electrical loads will point you in the right direction. NEVER, never, never, did I mention never?, use solid copper wire in an automotive application. Bad monkey! No banana! Avoid any wire that will hold any shape you form it into. Stiff wires are not designed for automotive applications and tend to break over time due to the various vibrations inherent in a car. Finer strands of wire braided together inside the insulation are the preferred choice especially for data lines, wheel speed sensors or anything that sends a digital or AC signal. Adding circuits: If you need to add an accessory, don't just go in and tap an existing circuit without first knowing everything it powers, the gauge of the wire and the size of the fuse protecting it. These circuits are designed for the specific current load they are supplying and adding to them can overload them resulting in meltdown. If you are removing something and putting something else in it's place, that's ok as long as the something you're putting in draws the same or less current. You can't tap your running light circuit to add off road lights. *See the above hose reference. When you add a circuit for power, always, always, ALWAYS add a fuse to the circuit as close to the power source as possible. This has been a source of contention in the past. There are those who believe it's not necessary and that belief is misguided. The federal government (which really tends to overdo things) has strict regulations for auto manufacturers regarding circuit protection. Every circuit in every car built since the mid 60's is fused one way or another. The two exceptions (in the past) were battery to starter and battery to fuse block. This is no longer true since the development of reliable high current fuse. Fuses: Fuses are there and the rating they are, for a reason. Protection of the device and the circuit, though more for the circuit in automotive applications. Protection from shorting, overload, overheating and possible fire. If it calls for a 15 amp fuse, use a 15 amp fuse. If a fuse keeps blowing, it's because there's a problem with the device or the circuit. This DOES NOT mean keep throwing a bigger fuse in it! No banana! This brilliant line of reasoning will cost you. Maybe just some repairs, perhaps your car, or maybe someones life. One experience with a Cadillac comes to mind. The owner thought it was ok to keep jamming a 30 amp fuse in a 15 amp location even though it kept blowing intermittently. Thankfully the car quit running all together and he had to have it checked. The job ended up taking 22 hours as I had to completely gut the interior of the vehicle and trunk to find all of the damage done to the wiring from the original issue that was by the E-brake pedal which I initially found in about 30 minutes. The continued installation of the bigger fuse allowed the circuit to overheat multiple times, melting the insulation on it and adjacent wires which then shorted out and overheated and so on. Due to the excessive damage, I ended up having to replace the dash harness, body harness, dash and body fuse blocks and the rear body harness. Total damages for said repeated offense: $8000+ and some change. How about that 15 amp fuse now? Circuit breakers can be used, but are not recommended. They are usually found in power window and power seat circuits since electric motors have what is known as rush in current. This higher draw of power is normal and can happen on startup or if the device binds up or is overloaded for another reason, so a CB is installed instead of a fuse allowing it to reset so use of the device can continue. Splices: When tapping into or repairing a circuit or extending a wire, the best method is solder and shrink tube. Lead free, rosin core solder and shrink tube with an imbedded glue. When heated, the glue will melt out and provide an airtight seal. Why an airtight seal? I'm glad I asked. I'll get to that in a moment. When tapping a circuit for an add on, cut the wire completely and strip both ends about 1/4". Strip the end of your new wire the same. Cut a piece of shrink tube at least twice as long as your stripped section. IE: 1/2". Slide it on to that section well away from the bare wire to avoid the heat from soldering. Twist your new wire to one side of the original wire you cut. Take that and twist it horizontally (both wires flat and pointing at each other) to the other half of the circuit you cut. When done correctly, it will look like a continuous wire, 'spiral' wrapped together. They also make bare metal crimps to join the wires. Now apply solder to the joined section. Let it cool. Slide the shrink wrap over the solder joint and position evenly on both sides of the joint. Heat and shrink. The second best method is shrink type butt connectors. These type connectors are semi transparent and come in pink, light blue and yellow, each color for a specific gauge wire. DO NOT use plain Jane butt connectors unless you live in Arizona, Utah or Nevada. They do not seal and will let in moisture. Moisture and copper do not play well together and the copper will corrode over time causing a poor connection with high resistance leading to possible heat damage/melting, or to the point where the wire will actually break. Shrink type butt connectors have imbedded glue. When heated, the outter sleeves of the connector shrink and the glue melts sealing the connection. See above airtight seal reference. Twisting and taping. This should only be used as a temporary, last ditch, emergency repair. It provides the least effective and weakest connection. Add to that, the majority of electrical tape people buy is cheap crap that will only stick for about a year or so before it starts to fall off. Then you get the fun of shorts, blown fuses, melted wires and if it's a really fun time, fire! Break out the marshmallows! I saved the worst for last. Splice locks. These are the nifty, Satan invented devices that you lay your original circuit in along with your new wire and mash it all together with pliers. Seems like a quick, easy way to join wire, right? WRONG! These hellish little devices will actually cut wire strands in the bundle of wires you are joining, reducing their ability to properly conduct the current, leading to premature component failure and wire overheating. Please, please, please do not use these. See the first paragraph of splices. The above information is for instruction purposes and is not my opinion, but an industry wide standard on how things should be done correctly. I have provided it to give you better ways to add and repair electrical connections. I did not post it to listen to, "Well my dad always did it this way" or, "My teacher said to do it that way." If they did, they are wrong. It may be they were uninformed or ill informed. Whatever the case, they are still wrong. I've been wrong many times. You get over it. In the immortal words of Irwin M. Fletcher, "It takes a big man to admit when he's wrong. I am NOT a big man." lol If you have questions, or I've overlooked something, you know how to find me.

Does it still have the CAT? It's possible it's plugged.