skishop69

Only way you're going to make it happen with an aftermarket switch in the radiator is to take an old switch, cut it down, drill it out and tap it to 1/8 NPT and that will only work if the inside of the old switch is solid. You could also find the right size metric bolt and do the same thing. That would be the way I would go.

I do it all the time, especially in the morning before I'm fully awake with copious amounts of coffee on board. I've posted stuff way more wrong than that. lol

Good post Freddo except one thing..... Pre detonation is caused by too MUCH compression, over advanced timing or roo much blow-by bring oil into the combustion chamber.

I'm sure they do. So for us in the states, the $500 tailgate is now $1000. lol

A friend at work who is big on old Datsuns found this and passed it along to me. It might not be ideal for those of us in the states, but at least they exist! https://www.facebook.com/1019828981401739/posts/subaru-brumby-brat-owners-will-be-pleased-to-know-that-we-have-brand-new-tailgat/2562631333788155/

Yeah, quite a while ago. I just new I wouldn't have time to get it going again with all the XT issues at the time.

Yep. I've got 2 XT's fully parted and stored and one Brat. Also a whole EA81 front clip. Wish I'd have kept my turbo coupe, but there were too many vehicles here. Fired up my 87.5 XT GL10 a week ago to for the first time in 6 years. Horrible, I know but it fired off in less than 30 seconds. One of these days I'll get the damned EJ swap done.

I wouldn't do it for the reasons mentioned above and others. Third gear is GOING to go out on the 4spd. It's a known issue. You're going to need the EA81 flywheel and tranny mounts. Mounts will need to me modified as will most likely the shifter linkages. Cutting and welding. Probably going to need a custom driveline as well since the trannys are different lengths. Don't ever recall anyone going backwards like this so I still say, don't do it.

Oops. I brain farted again. lol I thought you were talking about having a LHD and converting it to RHD. Geez, I really have to stop posting in the morning before coffee, lol My post applied to RHD units we had in the states not LHD. I'm an idiot. My bad.

The only LHD Brat's in the us were for the postal service and there were VERY few of them for rural areas. At least, that's what I read in an article.

Is the fan blowing hot air while it's running? If not, I'd replace the t-stat to start. Older and good quality water pumps don't usually snap or 'spin' the impeller and just stop pumping. Could be a plugged radiator or HGs, but I doubt it's blown HGs. It's rare on an EA81.

I wonder if the buyer knows 86 didn't come with jump seats? Still a super clean little rig.

Damn! I was wanting to hear about the immediate meltdown and explosion that would soon follow. lol Nice work!

Looking at the pics, the handles have been broken off the seats. Not worth $200 like that IMO. With, maybe.

I can confirm that the steering will not always return. If you make a 90 degree turn or sharper, the wheels will stay. I tow my Brat behind my camper when we go camping and I leave the steering wheel locked. This is also not ideal, but after having to fight the other issue, it's how I went. It does add extra wear on the control arm bushings, ball joints and tires, but as little as I do this, it's not a big deal. I only have 4 turns from my house to the freeway and once there, it's all smooth turns. I check the front end every time and my alignment is dead on which it has to be or it will fight the tow bar in a straight line.

True, it should still work on high. You really can't inspect them short of tearing it apart and I've never done one so I don't know if it's possible without ruining it. The next time it dies on you, jumper 12v right to it and see if it comes back on.

Either the brushes are going or you have a dead spot on one of the poles of the windings. It heats up while running and opens. The inertia of the motor will keep it running until you shut it down and then it won't run again until it cools down. I've seen this many times before with all types of blower motors. You could also have a blower resistor that's going bad or the connector at the resistor. Check power and and at the motor when it happens. If you've got both, bad motor.

I have searched and searched and there is no one I have found who will touch them. When, if ever, I get my EJ conversion done, I am going to look into repairing them. Mine still work and I have an extra set, but it never hurts to have a plan in place.

Black 'soot' is usually not oil consumption. It's fuel fouling.Oil burning usually shows dark brown or black and looks 'tacky'. My guess is your getting fuel from the carb after shutdown. Fuel level too high or a leak. Texan has a good idea too. You could have bad valve guides or seals, but that usually shows oil consumption. I'd put in a new set of plugs and check the color after driving for a week and compare them.

I work in Renton so I'll keep an eye out. Unfortunately, the scum that resides in the majority of the area will likely thrash it. Sorry man, that sucks.

I had to dig around a bit to find it, and now must say, I was wrong... again. lol They are EA63 heads. It was quite some time ago I saw them and though they are very similar, I'm pretty sure they won't fit an EA81. Can't seem to get the pic to upload, but if you search EA63 heads, you'll see them. My bad.

Nope. The EA81 did have a limited run of dual port intake heads.

Fan has power (+ voltage) when the key is on and is turned on by the temp switch in the radiator grounding the circuit.

It's not the twin port. Twin port heads have a cooling passage right in the middle and a port to either side. That's a twin carb setup and if it's been rebuilt, it's either the worst rebuild ever or it sat outside for years. My personal opinion based on what I see, not rebuilt and not worth more than $200-$300 bucks and that's only because it's the DC setup. I'd ask him for paperwork.

No. they are not part of the EVAP system.