skishop69

We have actually built 411 and 444 EA82 tranny's. Someone else here took the time and the money to have it done. Shawn and I paid for the 'rights' to the manual that shows step by step how it was done and exactly what parts and years will work. Since then, I've discovered there are other tranny parts that can be substituted. This recipe is a bolt together application with NO fabbing required except for having to shave the 444 ring gear a smidge to fit. Unfortunately, because of our agreement, I can't give you the specific info. Yes, you can dump EJ internals into and EA82 box, but IT WILL NOT LAST. The tolerances are different and will cause excessive wear, binding and ultimately failure. I've taken the measurements. It won't last and it's not DR. You can't weld input shafts together and have it work. The torsional shearing force applied to the shaft in low range if you were to ACTUALLY be wheeling and had to apply significant throttle when stuck or climbing rocks, would twist and break the shaft in short order. Performing such a weld would require bevelling, multiple passes, a custom alignment jig, a mill, a lathe and the ability to true the shaft when all is said and done, because it's going to warp. If it is not true or out of balance and spinning at 2000 RPM or higher, you'll get a vibration and eventually damage the clutch, the input bearings and quite possibly the rear main bearing and seal. Welding the two pieces will destroy the tempering of the factory pieces weakening them so if the weld doesn't snap, the shaft will. All that being said, you can start experimenting like Numbchux is doing or do the old Nissan divorced t-case mod if you have good fabbing skills and can actually locate an old Nissan divorced t-case.

No, it's not dangerous. I'm not familiar with that system, but if it operates like the rest, There is either a cable that runs from the shifter to the ignition cylinder that allows you to remove the key when it's in park, or there is a switch in the shifter that is turned on when in park that sends power to a solenoid attached to the ignition cylinder that allows you to remove the key. Cable broken or out of adjustment, loss of power or bad solenoid will cause you're issue depending on the system. Most common cause with either is spoob spilled down the shift console.

No no no. You have to weld the hinges to the body along with bolts because nothing could EVER go wrong with a loaded component being abused multiple times daily. It will NEVER need replacing. Riiiiight.... Way to go Einstein. lol

Most of the GM stuff from the 80's that was turdo'd required a special check valve. I don't know exactly what was special about it, but it was different from our other na valves. It might have been a GM thing. Our engineers tend to do weird sh*t. Good to know when I finally drop my EJ in my XT that I don't have to worry about it.

True, but IIRC, it's a different type of check valve. As far as the EA81 stuff, there is no check valve or vacuum canister. At least, not on the Brat, hatch or coupe. Cars that had the push button controls got a vacuum canister because there were more vacuum pods in operation.

Yep, you have to install check valves.

Someone here is confused, and I'm not sure which one of us it is. lol Did you test ONLY the circuits I referred to exactly the way I said to, or did you just start checking ECU terminals to see if they light up? My schematics are buried with my EJ harness, so giving me circuit numbers does no good. Circuit names would work though.

That's just a repost and still doesn't really answer my question. lol

So you load tested all the power/ground circuits to the ECU as well as the cam/crank sensor and coil pack circuits as I instructed? They were all ok? If the coil isn't firing, I'll bet money your injectors aren't firing either. Still points to a wiring problem of some sort given you've swapped all the components you have.

The secondaries only open under a load or hard acceleration. The car will run just fine without them and is even driveable on the freeway without them. Drove my Brat for months with the secondaries disconnected. If you can barely drive it, you've got something going on with the primary circuit. Plugged or leaky air bleed, jets in the wrong position, float set wrong...

Don't recall hearing many issues with those body styles. The issues are with the Brat, coupe, hatch and wagons through '88. They have no space behind the head unit (like 5"-6"), a common ground wire speaker system, goofy speakers in the dash, very thin speakers in the door to clear the window and virtually nowhere to put other speakers without using boxes or hacking things up.

Yes.

I don't know where you read 300 ohms on a knock sensor, They should read as an open. There is a small piezo crystal inside the sensor that is 'tuned' to pick up detonation. When detonation occurs, the crystal produces an electric signal that the ECU reads. Based on the amplitude of the signal, the ECU calculates how much spark advance to remove to stop the detonation. A bad knock sensor will not stop a vehicle from running.

Based on what you've checked and swapped out, it sounds like you have a wiring issue. Yes, you tested with a meter. That means squat. Read on... lol The ECU is not seeing the crank or cam signal, or the coil pack is not getting the fire signal. You need to LOAD test your power and ground circuits at the ECU connector. Grab a good bulb and socket combo from the wrecking yard. An 1157, 3057 or 3157 (dual filament, turn/tail bulb). Twist the positive wires together so there are two connections (one positive & one negative) off of the socket. With the ECU connector unplugged, connect one wire from the bulb socket to each ground circuit on the connector one at a time and the other socket wire to B+. The bulb should light brightly. If not, you've got a problem. Do the same for the IGN+ and B+ circuits at the connector, this time connecting the other socket wire to ground. If they test ok, then you need to test the cam, crank and coil circuits. Unplug the sensor and coil connectors and the ECU connector. Supply B+ to each sensor/coil connector terminal one at a time. Connect the light bulb socket to the corresponding ECU connector terminal and the other end to ground and see if it lights. If it doesn't, you've got a problem. This is usually where someone says, "I tested it with a multi meter and it was fine!" Great! Wonderful! It has low resistance which really means nothing. It means you have a connection, it doesn't mean you can carry a load. Say you have 20 single strands inside your piece of 18 gauge wire. All but one of them break inside the insulation so you can't see it. Yes, it DOES happen. Check it with a meter and it will show that the circuit is good. Load test it and it will fail because that single strand can't carry the required load that the combined strands do. The same thing can happen with a bad crimp on a terminal. If/when you find the bad circuit, string a new one and test it again. Use ONLY heat shrink butt connectors to connect wires and make sure you heat and seal them. NEVER use generic/open butt connectors on vehicle control wiring. They allow water/moisture to get in which corrodes the wire and connection creating high resistance and ultimately failure. Best repair is solder and heat shrink tube, but that's not an option for everyone. One last thing. Not sure about Subaru, but some systems require the neutral switch be grounded during starting or you get no spark/fuel and most won't even crank over.

The accelerator pump just covers the initial lack of fuel during snap acceleration. It's not going to do anything for a lack of vacuum in the venturi causing reduced fuel draw from the jets.

Yes, on the bottom to mid range end there will be a lack. Past that, it's gonna go fat and no amount of spark is going to 'burn off' the fuel. Not with the compression ratio, volume and AFR.

First off, I know GD. He may be an a** sometimes, but he is a damn good mechanic so that little quip is unnecessary and counterproductive. The car is 30 years old so trying to pin the blame on someone for a noise that cropped up 3 MONTHS after the work is ridiculous. I understand you're frustrated. That being said... It is neither the flex plate nor the inspection cover and I highly doubt it is the torque converter. Flex plate and inspection cover would create constant, fixed decibel noise that changes pitch with speed. I've also never seen a TC that didn't have a lock up clutch, whine. Most likely, the front pump is making the noise or you have an input bearing issue. The only way to know is pull the tranny then remove the front cover to inspect the pump and bearing. Make sure to keep everything very clean while doing this and don't wipe anything off with a rag or paper towel. Use brake clean. Auto's don't like little particles floating around inside.

+1 The smallest engine those were used on was 230CI which is roughly 3.8l. There is no way you'll ever get rid of the dead spot on the bottom end. Been there, done that and told the guy it would never work right. Sorry to rain on your parade. On top of the venturi being way too big, the jets are also way too big. Even if it doesn't foul the plugs, your mileage will be horrible. I can see you have a lot of work into it and did a great job, but you're playing chicken with physics and you can't win.

The dipstick is for checking the level of the whole tranny, not just the diff.

It's not brass, it's the detent spring. +1 for welding it up. I've done quite a few case and bell housing mods and repairs. It'll hold.

Sweet! 10 speed!?

That is a piece of the kennel tray from our Great Dane's kennel. lol It's textured like the rest of the interior, so it worked great.

Dude! That lift set up is hugely unsafe! No bueno! You've taken a support for the cross member that was 3" wide and essentially reduced it to a 1" point where the blocks meet. Your vertical support is now riding on a 3/16" piece of flat bar that IS going to bend inward. Both of them. Add to that, you have now taken that set up and raised the center of gravity adding more force exponentially to the lateral loading (side to side) that it was designed to take. Those blocks are going to succumb to work fatigue from that extra loading and crack or break. I'm not saying immediately. It will take time to happen based on what type of driving you do and vehicular abuse but it WILL happen sooner or later. I'm not saying tear it out, nor am I trying to insult you or your work. I'm just pointing out your knowledge of physics and fabricating isn't where you want it to be. It's easily fixed though. Weld a piece of 3/16" plate from the inside bottom edge of the top block to the inside bottom edge of the bottom block. Weld another plate from the top outside edge of the bottom block to the top outside edge of the top block. You'll end up with it looking like two small triangles on the sides. Do this to the left and right sides and you'll have no issues. Seriously, no offense intended. If that thing broke, you lost control and someone was injured or killed and an investigation was done, you'd be legally responsible. Just thinking of your safety and well being.

+1 They clearly didn't care enough about you or your car. Should have been an easy fix for a dealer. I would seriously question their 'electrical guy's' abilities.

XT's are not bad at all. I have 2. Body and interior parts are hard to find. If it has air suspension, get it out of there even if it still works. Parts are no longer available and near impossible to find. With an adapter kit from Scott at SJR Lifts, you can easily install and EJ22 for more pep. The engine you have is an EA82 and that's all that will go in there without the adapter. Don't bother trying to put in an EA82T (turbo). For the headache of wiring and maintenance issues, it's better to do the EJ swap. They (EA82) are cheap to maintain mechanical wise. I did a complete engine reseal, full tune up, front axles, clutch and brakes at all 4 corners for $300. Check it over good for rust before you buy. Look closely at the underside of the trunk lid, the bottom rear of the trunk including all the hidey holes, rear strut towers, rear bumper mounts and bumper and the rocker panels. Those places are prone to rust and especially in your area.