skishop69

There is either a thermal vacuum port on the engine or an inline vacuum delay for it. EGR is only supposed to come on during harder acceleration after the engine warms up. By hooking it directly to a ported vacuum source, you're causing it to open when you crack the throttle. If you're in an emissions inspection area, you'll have to hook it up right or they'll fail you. If you're not, use the delete from above. All it does is reduce NOx, nothing else. Just paid attention to where you are. If the car is older than 25 years, you don't get emissions. Get rid of the EGR.

Thanks. I ran out of black paint twice trying to color match it. The pics make it seem way lighter than it is, but it's only a couple shades lighter than factory.

Those rims were an option you could order when buying a new Brat. Iirc, they were only available for a year or two.

Yes it is! I had to take it to the shop for an estimate after a guy backed into me in December four days after I wrecked the Brat. Dodging an idiot in the rain and over a curb at 30 with the brakes locked. Thrashed the control arm and strut rod. Only cosmetic damage to the Bandit, but it looks like they're going to total it.

Now that's a pic I WANT TO SEE! lol

Yes, I do tow it with it....

So I got a Boss mechless deck for Christmas to replace my seriously under performing stock radio in my Brat. I had already upgraded the speakers a couple years back as two of them FINALLY began to fail. As many of you know, I'm a purist when it comes to Brats. I won't do anything to a Brat that can't be easily undone, unless said Brat is a basket case. I had a radio console I picked up quite some time ago, that had already been butchered, specifically to install a new head unit. It took some time to get it all done, but now that it is, I've been enjoying awesome tunes for about 3 weeks now. The build....

That is sweet!

If it won't fire with starting fluid, you have a spark or compression issue. Spark should be a blueish/orange color, not white or yellow and should easily jump a 1/4" gap. You could have a weak coil or wires, cap or rotor as turbosubarubrat mentioned. IIRC, the fuel pump controller needs to see a firing signal from the distributor or it won't turn on the pump. No spark and no fuel? I would suspect something with the distributor, ignition switch, wiring or a ground.

Did everyone miss something here? Droplets of fuel flying UP through the barrel??? 'Farting' noise? You have a bad intake valve or seat somewhere that is not closing/sealing allowing exhaust to escape through it. OR.... An exhaust valve that is not opening fully causing pressure to remain in the cylinder which escapes through the intake. Last... A head gasket that is blown between cylinders causing exhaust pressure to cross between them and exit out the intake. Get a compression gauge. It's the only way you're going to find the problem. Cam, lifter, pushrod, rocker, valve, seat or HG. Find the culprit.

Something is not adding up with your methods. The mixture screw adjusts the amount of fuel at idle, not air. Backing it out will enrich the mixture, not lean it out. Ideal setting is 2-3 turns out from being lightly bottomed to start. If you can back it out all the way with no runnability issues, something is wrong inside the carb. Are you certain you got the primary and secondary jets back in the right spots? You can switch them and it will cause a serious rich issue. An issue with the airbleed jets can cause this too. The level in the sight glass should be at the half way mark, no higher than 2/3, IIRC. Are all the vacuum lines hooked up correctly? EGR not stuck partially open or leaking? PCV system working correctly?

spoob! Learn something new every day! My dd Brat doesn't have that! Doh!

Yeah, I've had a few ideas. Whatever I do, I'm going to do some massive head porting, put in bigger valves and make it a true split port intake. I'll most likely end up with motorcycle throttle bodies and a wicked rod linkage system with the TPS mounted on the fulcrum. I've built 400hp small block, regular pump gas engines back in the late 90's so I've got some good ideas to squeeze 200hp out of one of these. The computer models say it will make it, but we won't know without a dyno run.

Gotcha. True that with FI you don't have to worry about the suspension issue at all. The real key is finding the most efficient velocity/volume combo keeping the straightest line possible to the valve port given the space you have to work with. Carb set ups bolted straight to the head with only a short, straight tube work best for carb apps. Pretty much the same for FI. The problem is space, configuration and cost. Now you have multiple carbs or TB's hugely raising the cost and arrangement to keep them in the space allowed. I've been trying to figure the best set up for a twin or quad TB set up for a port injected EA81 I'm going to build.

The size of the manifold has nothing to do with engine displacement. Well, almost nothing. It is more about flow and velocity. IE: Volumetric efficiency. You need high velocity without compromising flow (volume) to keep the fuel properly atomized.

Well, it sounds like a feedback carb. There should be connectors hanging under the steering column and an ECS light on the dash if it was a feedback vehicle. No, it won't run without the ECU. Nothing to turn the fuel pump on and to turn the shut off solenoid on.

Well, first off you can ruin a MAF by cleaning it if the ignition is on. A MAF that is skewed will not set a code and will cause all kinds of issues. Second, are you sure the TPS circuits were spliced correctly and are good? Did you ohm them end to end? Should be less than 1 ohm.

Ummmm.... Trident, that's a write up for EA82's. Brats are EA81. Totally different creature.

Brats only had them if they had the feedback carb and yes, they were located under the steering column. Check the carb. If there's more than two wires going to it, excluding the choke, then it's feedback and you should have an ECM.

1) This is the tach head itself. It has to do with the temp of the actual control windings. Nothing you can do there. It MIGHT be a lube issue on the needle shaft, but I doubt it. You could tear the cluster out and apart and try some silicone lube. 2) Did the high idle used to work? If it did, remove the air filter housing and use some green CRC brake clean on all the external linkages. Let them dry off and then spray the down with PB Blaster the work then all by hand. 3) Use a silicone based lube in your ignition cylinder. Water or petroleum based lubes can mess with the electrical portion. 4) There are a few things I can think of here. A) Your gear inside the tranny is warm and when it's cold, there's too much resistance in the cable for it to turn the gear on the cable. I've had this happen. Only fix ix to open the tranny. The speedo cable is worn out or dry. Remove it from the tranny and the cluster and lube the living spoob out of it with PB Blaster while spinning it with a drill. C) The speedo head is gummed up. Tear the cluster out and apart and lube it with a silicone based lube. NEVER use a petroleum based lube on a speedo head! Almost all of them are to heavy and will affect how it reads and/or will damage the bushing the shaft rides in. IIRC, they use a very light mineral oil for assembly.

Don't need to do a flow test. If it runs, it's working. lol Carbs take almost no pressure and not a lot of volume.

+1 on the fuel pump. It's a normal noise. All three of my Brats do it.

Yes, connecting the lift blocks front to rear will stiffen it up. Just welding the lift kit in as he asked will do nadda.

If it wasn't a turbo, it's a 3.9. I don't recall ever running across small stub 3.7's but I'm not 100% sure they didn't make one. Like, 95% sure. lol

Welding in the lift kit will do nothing to stiffen up the body issue you're having with the rockers and rails being toast. You need to do what DF3O is doing.