skishop69

I'll point this out again... If it's grinding going into a gear, it is NOT the synchro that has failed. It IS making the noise, but it's not the bad part. The part that has failed is the blocking ring that sits inside the synchro and is a separate, serviceable part. As you shift, the synchro pushes the blocking ring, which is cone shaped, onto the mating surface of the gear you're shifting into. The ring has ridges in it that grab the free wheeling gear slowing it down to the shaft speed then the tapered teeth of the synchro allow it to mesh with the gear, locking it to the shaft. +1 for both turbosubarubrat & 987687. If it's a 4spd, 3rd gear failure is common.

I'll assume we're talking about an EA82 here as Loyales are not high on my knowledge base. There is a small seal in the lower right corner between the head and the cam tower that seals the oil passage to the cam tower. If it fell out or it's damaged, there's your problem. I always use a dab of grease to hold it in place and then use a small amount of anaerobic sealant around it to make sure it never fails.

I would've used Plasti_Dip in the rattle can. Comes out smooth and a closer match.

I can sympathize. One of the horses got into the yard and dented the door on my 76 lifted Chev. Thank gawd I had new doors to put on. lol If you get a pic of the broken part/bushing, post it. If it's what I think it is, I have a crapload of those in different styles.

Most likely the proportioning valve in the steering rack has gone out. You can try jacking up the vehicle and turning the steering wheel lock to lock several times to make sure all of the air is out. If that doesn't do it, it's rack time.

IIRC, al the EA81 tanks were the same. I know for sure the coupe and hatch ones are the same.

Autocom part number ACI31-82002. Valeo part number 52254803. You need to search 86-87.

Hitachi was factory AC and IIRC, Lonestar was dealer added AC. Hatchsub is correct. You need to make sure you get the components for the correct system you want to install. All of the brackets, hoses, condenser, accumulator (receiver/drier), compressor, condenser and evaporator core are different and not easily interchangeable as the fittings are different between the two systems.

If they are ground switched, you just need to use a relay from the remote start to trigger it to turn them on. Hook one side of the relay coil (trigger) to ground and the other to the 12v coming from the remote start. Hook one side of the relay switching contacts to ground and the other side to the switched wire for the parking lights. Problem solved.

You might have a weak alternator, but I don't think that's a factor with this. I would definitely check all your grounds though. If you cut the remote start wire to the starter as you say, then that's out. If none of your factory fuses have blown, then nothing is wrong with anything in the car. The power wire from the remote start unit to power the 'accessories' is what's giving you grief. That leaves two possibilities. 1) The unit is faulty. 2) You hooked it to a circuit that shows 12v when the key is off, but goes to ground when the key is turned on. Yeah, it's possible. You can show full voltage but have almost no current (like 1 amp or lower) due to stray voltage on that circuit but it's actually a ground circuit when switched on. Check the circuit you wired it to with a meter and see what it reads key off and on. I don't have access to schematics right now and I'm off to the ocean for the weekend! Good luck.

I put in the 4x6 H$ generics with the colored LED's on the side. They throw off great light though the pattern is a little wonky. I do plan on getting a higher quality set at some point, but they are a definite improvement. You will have to swap terminals on your plugs though as the H4's are positive switched, not ground switched like ours.

Pull the center trim piece out inside and inspect. You may need to pull the whole headliner as well. The most likely reason for the rust is the seals for the fun top hinge pockets and mounting screws are shot. Happened to me. I took it all apart, cut the rusted sections out with a Dremel, made new ones, migged them in, made new seals, got stainless hardware and put it back together. It took around 4 hours. You do not want to cut and weld a whole roof unless it's the only option. To do that you have to properly support the body or it will fold in on itself when you cut the roof out. Maybe only an 1/8th" or so, but it will. The you have multiple layers of sheet metal forming supports inside the roof that all have to be properly welded which means cutting outter sections to get to the inner and then welding the outter back in. If not done correctly, you compromise the structural integrity and safety of the vehicle. Fiberglass is not waterproof and will only be a temporary fix.

Huh? Left and right headlight doors? They never had any. The cyclops setup was the only one with a door. You can't install them over or in place of your regular headlamps without a lot of fabbing. If that's what you're trying to do....

Definitely a repaint on the airbox and brackets. The only way I know to check the AC for factory or dealer install is to look at it. There would also be a small badge on the climate control panel that says, This vehicle is equipped for the installation of AC if it was dealer installed. Aftermarket units don't use the rotational sensor.

Everything from the flywheel back should be EA82 except the cable and pedal box. As mentioned before, they do not need to be changed. I did mine about a year ago and have had no issues. Yes, the TO bearing is going to ride lightly in the PP when it is adjusted for proper engagement and release. I know some who have changed the box and cable, but it is not required.

The 5 spd FT4wd has a lower ratio. The PT4wd DR has the same ratio as the 4 spd. With the exception of the RX tranny.

No, the TO fork is in the same place on EA81 & EA82. Also, you do not need the pedal, box or cable. The 4 spds didn't have a 3.7, they had a 3.9 so unless someone put in an RX tranny or a FT4wd turbo trans, it's still 3.9. 5th gear is the same ratio as 4th gear in the 4 spd. The difference in the gears is split between 2nd & 3rd. You will notice no change in freeway performance. In town, if that is your main use, you will as you're not lugging or rapping the crap out of the engine to make the next gear. My in town MPG went up 2MPG after my swap, highway did nothing.

You're going to have to weld on the Brat to do it right. You will need to weld on the mounting points and reinforce the area around those points. 6 mounting points would make it safe. then you have all the work fitting the engine and tranny in. A lot of fabbing here. Way more work here than tearing out your rear suspension and gas tank and fixing it right. Of course, you need a good welder and skills to properly weld sheet metal. Cost and time way outweigh fixing it right.

That appears to be an OEM accessory winch bumper/brush guard minus the winch. The topper is an excellent addition though not factory. None were. It does however appear to be the very rare trim mounted topper which mounts on the bed trim with a rubber seal, keeping it off the paint on the side of the bed. I have one on one of my Brats. The rims are aftermarket and very rare now. Good luck finding center caps. I doubt it has had a 5 speed swap. That is an aftermarket shifter knob. Too bad some jacka** hacked up the center console. Good luck finding one in grey. Been looking forever. The steering wheel is factory for '84-'87. That is a VERY nice, low mileage Brat and finds like that are very few and far between. Please... DO NOT drill holes or make mods that cannot be undone. Leave it alone. If you want one to mod, I'll trade you my '87 in almost as good of shape, with higher miles plus cash! That's how serious I am about NOT screwing with this find you have. It's yours to do as you will, but modding a Brat of this condition would be nothing short of a travesty.

Just because you have spark doesn't mean it's good. You could have arcing inside the distributor cap, high resistance on a plug wire or fouled plugs. You can inspect the inside of the cap for tracing, little lines between any of the contacts, test the wires, acceptable is 1000 ohms per foot and clean or replace the plugs if they look like crap. A vacuum leak on any of the intake lines behind the MAF on a turbo car will give you grief as well. As mentioned, the coolant sensor will do this as well. The ECU thinks it's -30 degrees and starts dumping fuel in.

Yes, a drill will take forever. A Dremel however, will not. Huge RPM difference. Depending on the Dremel speed, 13K should only take 5 or 6 hours I would think. Done it before, but now I just crack them open and change them. It's a bit of work, but faster than the alternatives.

Huh? What does the steering shaft have to do with the axles or the knuckle? I can't answer your question directly, but you do need to lengthen the steering shaft for proper operation and fitment.

That is AWESOME!!!

There's a post somewhere on this. Don't have time to look now, but someone did modify them to work.

The windshields are still available new and are fairly cheap. If the trim is not, you can use windshield trim from mid to lat 70's Chevy trucks. It's a little bigger, so you have to be creative.