skishop69

So here's what you do. Drive it until the noise is prominent. Get onto a vacant side road and drive the speed it is most noticeable at. Then swerve hard from left to right. If you swerve right and the noise goes away, it's the right rear axle bearing. If you swerve left and it goes away, it's the left rear axle bearing. Or if it gets louder swerving left, its the right rear and louder swerving right, it's the left rear. If the change in tone is not noticeable swerving either way, it's not an axle bearing. Again, drive the speed it's most notable at. While driving, put it in and out of 4WD and see if it gets louder. If it does, it's the rear diff. If you can't tell, then do this. At the same speed, in 2WD, hit the gas and then let off listening for a change in the noise. If it changes, it's nothing in the rear end. If it doesn't, put it in 4WD and do the same thing. If it changes, it's in the rear diff.

You need a special polishing wheel that goes on a drill and cerium oxide. It's specifically designed to remove light scratches from glass. You can find kits online.

So the daughters XT clutch has been going south for a while and we finally ordered a replacement from RockAuto. They only list one option for an 88 XT. I get everything torn out today, open the package... and it doesn't match what I just pulled out. Check the specs and measurements. Yep, they sent what I ordered. 7-7/8" disc, 21 spline. What came out was 8-7/8" and 24 spline. Wonderful! NOT!!! Apparently someone swapped in and XT6 tranny since the rear diff is a 3.90. Everyone else shows the same listing so it can't be a miscatalogged part. Now we have to wait for the 'right' one to show up. Joy and fun! Again, NOT!!!

If you wait and use an EJ tranny, you will lose the DR feature so bye bye lo range. You have to decide if you want lo range or not for wheeling. Oh, and unless the engine has been swapped, I think you mean EA81. Brats didn't come with an EA82.

None of it is factory. The wire type and colors are all wrong. Someone most likely had an alarm installed at some point. The switch is the over ride for an old school alarm. You'd press it in a specific sequence to shut it off if triggered. If the wire from thew fuse box goes there, then that was part of it too. Get rid of it all. There's no need for it.

Extra ooomf? I don't see how that's possible since it has a 3.70 ratio being from a turbo rig and the stock trans would have had a 3.90 ratio unless the gearing was changed. It is a far better tranny overall and worth using. You're really only going to gain from using it if you're going to EJ the engine or try some insane power build. If you decide not to keep it, let me know and I'll buy it. I have a specific use for it in an upcoming project.

Yep to the last one, and no, we didn't get DR EJ tranny's here. When one pops up, it's gone and they are highly coveted.

Really? Where did you find this info? Looked at the pics and IF it fits, you're going to have to remove their handles and locks and have the glass drilled for the Subie hardware.

Yep, they are no longer available anywhere. I never noticed they were curved though. :\ I'll have to look at mine. lol Edit: Yep. Just checked and son of a b*tch if it isn't ever so slightly curved.... The curve depth is about a 1/4 inch. Worst case scenario is you'd have to pull the rear assembly, remove the glass, 'flatten' the frame, get 2 pieces of flat glass cut and then readjust the sheet metal in the back wall to fit the frame. It could be done, I've had a few of those back walls out completely. The seals were still available aftermarket like a year or so ago.

Correct, or you have a short somewhere.

It is run by a thermistor in the fuel tank at the bottom of the sending unit. The fuel covering it keeps it cool and it has high resistance so no current flow. When the level drops below the thermistor, it heats up and resistance goes down. Current then flows and the light comes on. You need to determine if the light or the thermistor is bad. Use the schematics and apply proper power/gnd to the feed circuit of the light and see if it comes on. If it does, you'll have to drop the tank and pull the sender. The thermistor can be replaced if you're fairly handy and can find the proper rating.

Every interior and body part on the car is impossible to find! I wouldn't get rid of my XT GL10 because of that though. Of course, I have a shed full of XT parts, so... Welcome to the club if you get it!

It is true that fusible links actually require more amperage and time to blow. Resistance of the wire and such. If Jono has been using his setup without issue as far as loading is concerned, I'd stand behind what he has done and say his ratings are good and safe. Of course, that's just because I'm lazy and don't want to do the testing and the math. lol Seriously though, you do need to run smaller rated fuses than fusible links so go with his numbers. Worst case, you have to step them up 10amps.

Since you clearly have the tools to fix it, you can check the front end yourself. Jack up the front end and place jack stands or wood blocks under the outboard ends of the control arms about 1" or so from the tires. You need to set the stands or blocks so the tires are 1"- 2" off the ground when you lower the jack. This way all of the weight is on the suspension, IE: loaded. You can now check all the components correctly that they would check. Steering wheel locked, grab a front tire at the front and rear and pull it left and right. If there's any play, you (or your 'assistant') look to see where the play is. Inner tie rod, outter tie rod, wheel bearing/hub or lower control arm. Next, grab the tire top to bottom and pull in and out top to bottom and see if you have play. See where it is. Lower bj, strut mount, wheel bearing/hub or control arm. Last, take a large prybar or similar object between the tire and the ground. Pry up and down on the tire and see if there is play in the lower bj or control arm. Repeat for the other side. Some play is normal but there shouldn't be any clunking or clicking. When you do the left to right, you may get a clunk from the steering column if there's a little movement and that's also normal. Congratulations! You've just done a front end check! Now go tell Exploding Rock to eat gravel, because it sounds to me like they're trying to sand job you. lmao

Yep. Those are them. lol

Not sure about the Loyale, but on the EA81 & 82 GL/DL & XT's thru '88, you can use the tall, square mega fuses for GM trucks like '05-'09. Properly rated of course...

I bought whole H4 assemblies that have the projector lens built in. I haven't had time to research new ones yet.

Possible, but unless you want to fork out for an analysis, you'll never know. Could've just been a bad batch of gas. It does happen.

I have projectors, but haven't upgraded to HID. They do make a difference, but don't go cheap. IE: The $100 set. I did and even though they are brighter, the pattern on the road sucks comparatively speaking. They're better than they were by far, but before I invest in a HID set up, I'm going to look for better housings.

Ok, so the same ratio with better pistons. So was this a direct fir or were modifications required?

I figured better design and obviously easier to get. I was just curious as to what the comp ratio is.

Ok. Yes, upgrade to the new refrigerant it's cheaper anyway by a lot. Oh, and it's illegal to vent ANY R-type refrigerant into the atmosphere.

Any idea what the gain would be? You get 9.5:1 with the EA82 SPFI pistons.

Yeah, all we got was the 8.7:1 EA81. You are correct though that if you order EA82 SPFI pistons and put them in, you get 9.5:1. You can also order special pistons from RAM Up to 10:1 IIRC.

It'll work just fine, but I wouldn't bother personally. ER27 parts are scarce to say the least and the HP gain will be minimal. You'll need the ECU and harness from a donor car which I'm sure you already know. lol You generally want high revving motors for buggies unless you just build a torque monster. The ER is neither of these. It would be cool to put one in just because, and if you have more than one then he'd have a spare. IMO, there are better Subie engines to start with.