skishop69

Ahhhh.... Didn't realize you meant EA81T. They are the same comp ratio so you're not gaining anything changing pistons.

Jono, EA82T pistons have a lower compression ratio than EA81. 7.5:1 vs 8.5:1. It'll be a dog off the line and require more boost to run decent once the turbo spools up.

The stock ECU won't handle it. There's not enough 'give' in the factory fuel and spark maps. You'll go lean, have detonation and the ECU won't be able to correct. Poof! lol Stock EA82T's will barely take 12 pounds of boost without certain death. Bump up the compression to 9.5:1 and then boost that high or more...... No bueno. Just pointing out that if you're combining used engine parts to make a 'good' motor, you bump up compression and boost plus run the stock ECU, you'll be lucky if it will stay running and if it does and you crank it up, it will be a very short lived experiment. Heed my words on the EA/EJ comparison. I have both, have modded both and can assure you from experience, the EA isn't worth heavy modding. Again, I'm not saying don't have fun, just be aware it'll be short lived. At the VERY least you'll need stand alone fuel management.

+1 for WoodsWagon. Here's a break down of what you're going to have to look at to make this work and SURVIVE and you're going to be looking at $3K-$4K to do it. Not worth it IMO, but... You will need the forged pistons and rods from Ram. There's $700 for pistons right there. Running high compression and boost will kill regular pistons in a heartbeat. Ask me how I know. You will need to O-ring the heads and create copper head gaskets. Only one place made them, and they don't anymore. No current HG's are going to hold for any length unless you way over torque them and then you're going to pull the threads out of the block, which brings me to the next item. You'll need to Time-sert the block and install studs for the heads so you can over torque and things won't stretch, rip or break. You're going to need to port the exhaust, install bigger valves and get a higher lift or longer duration or both on the exhaust lobe. If you don't, you're going to create excessive back pressure as EA82's flow like crap. 4" downpipe and minimum 3" exhaust. Intercooler. 'Nuff said. Methanol water injection is in order as previously mentioned or detonation will wipe out your pistons, bearings, HG's and valves. Stand alone fuel management system with knock control and a higher voltage coil or you're going to blow the spark out. Bigger injectors and higher output fuel pump. Boost controller with outputs for the methanol injection. Then there's all the goodies for your propane injection. Hundreds more there. Machine the crank to the tightest specs or your bearings will be short lived. Have the entire rotating assembly balanced. Bigger radiator with an inline surge tank. EA82's have a horrible coolant flow design and overall, the engine was barely adequate in stock form. It's not a bad engine, it just doesn't take extreme modding well at all. You said, dependable over time. Yeah, you could probably cut a few things, find deals on the control portions of the system and do a lot on your own, but I learned a long time ago, it's more expensive taking chances than being certain. Not saying taking chances isn't fun. Seen and learned some great things from that school. lol Comparing an EJ22 to an EA82 is like comparing a WRX to a Pinto. Not even close to the same creature...

Yes, you can build a tow bar, but you have to build brackets attached to the bumper mounts to attach it to. Don't attach it to the bumper directly. It's no designed for it. Towing a fwd manual is no issue at all. Been doing it with my Brat for 10 years.

Roughly what was the cost to Dynomat it?

I looked at mine today, and I don't see a way to mount it without having brackets crack down the road which leaves you with two options. Get a 90 degree drill to drill and tap the correct holes or pull the engine. I would bet you money that you can just pull the exhaust and radiator hoses and then lift/tilt the engine up enough to get a regular drill in there if you had to.

Dude! Awesome and love that color! Let me know how much the Dynomat quiets down the ride as I'm considering doing it to my DD.

No, you don't. I always torque mine 5-10 ft/lbs over and I've never had an issue.

I would imagine with some work (a lot) you could probably get Legacy air struts to work. A lot of us with air suspension have been looking for a viable replacement for years, but nothing I have heard of or found will work without a LOT of fabbing.

Nope. No aftermarket replacements for factory air struts no factory air struts left and none I no of that you can modify to work.

Woohoo! lol Again, get a fuel pump inertia switch for an 85-95 Ford Escort and wire it inline with the power to the fuel pump. Mount it anywhere convenient, in a VERTICAL position where you can easily get to it to reset it if you need to. If you mount it outside the passenger compartment, you'll need to make sure it's well covered to prevent water intrusion. If you have an accident, it'll shut the pump down and can be reset later.

Bring it over this weekend and I'll give you a hand.

As far as the fuel pump goes, I would get the wiring and fuel pump control box for the EA81. Here's why: In an accident, this box is designed to shut the fuel pump down, or shut it off if the engine stops running. Lets say you have an accident and a fuel line is ruptured or you end up upside down. Unless you have the foresight to turn the key off (or you're unconscious and CAN'T turn it off) you now have fuel running everywhere. One good spark or a heat source and it's scorched Earth, total, wholesale destruction. Add to that, if anyone else were to be injured or killed by this fire and an investigation were performed, you would be held liable even if you didn't cause the accident. At the very least, I would go get an inertia switch from an 85-95 Ford Escort and wire it into the power circuit. At least it will shut it down in case of a collision. It's been a while since I owned a Gen1, but I believe they had a female spade wire that attached to a male spade that was attached to the alternator housing as a ground to help control the electrical 'whine'. As for running when you shut it off, you either have a switch problem or you wired it wrong and the coil is always getting power. The start and die issue is most likely junk in the float bowl on the carb. You'll need to take the top off and blow it out. Or it could be the pump wiring.

You're going to need industrial drawer slides that will take the weight. I've looked into these before for different projects and you're going to be starting around $300. You could do it without using actual slides, but it's going to be hell moving it in and out when loaded, not to mention you'll have to fab up some kind of stop system so it doesn't pop out. This means lots of welding. Something else to think about is the extra weight on the rear suspension. You're hanging 300lbs off the end of the car levering the front up. IIRC from past events using a couple of my Subies to move heavy trailers in and out of tight spots, the front end is going to come up about 2-3". This is going to reduce effective traction, change steering and suspension angles and make it unsafe to drive at higher speeds as it's going to want to wander. These cars weren't all that heavy to begin with. Since braking is 60/40 front/rear, you're braking effectiveness is also going to be reduced since you are, in effect, removing weight from the front. 300lbs isn't a lot, so the effect might not be as drastic, but just some things to think about before and during the build.

You're going to need the diagrams and sensors to change it out. I don't have access to the diagrams right now, but maybe someone here will. You might want to rethink putting in the digital dash. They are hard to find and I imagine even harder where you are. They are great though.

I would check the play in the distributor shaft before ordering parts as it sounds to me like you have a gauge issue or electrical problem. If there's no lateral play (back and forth) in the shaft, then that's not your problem. A SMALL amount of play is normal. More than slight movement is not.

Catalina is a pretty hefty chunk of iron. Glad you're ok. I have had 2 rigs totalled by drunks. Just to give you a better idea on your Subie: You'll be lucky to get $1000-$1500 for it and the buy back to keep it will be $300-$500. If you fix it yourself, you might break even. If you have to have someone else do it, you're going to be out of pocket at least $1000. Unfortunately, the insurance company doesn't care how it runs and drives. They're going to look at pre-crash condition and local market resale compare that to cost to repair and total it. If the repair cost exceeds 60% of the value, it's a goner. Since a really good condition GL might go for $2-$3k, even with the damage you have, it would be a loss. Just basing what I see in your pics and my experience. You've got close to $3k worth of damage there if it were to go to a body shop. Hate to see someone lose a beloved vehicle, but I just think you should be prepared for what's coming.

Yeah, that's not going to work. Way to big flow wise. Crack the throttle and it's going to fall on it's face in a best case scenario. Worst: Stall.

Yeah, they're going to total it. That sucks big time. Unless you know someone who can cut and weld in a new rear quarter, it's going to be close to a grand just for that. Beings that it seems to be up in the C pillar and there's rust there, to do a proper repair, the back glass is going to have to come out and part of the pillar replaced. What a jacka**. Don't even get me started on drunk drivers....

You can't weld steel to aluminum. Not with any reliability. You'll need to find hoses that fit. That means taking a coat hanger, bending it to match the hose routing and then taking it to a parts place that will let you in back to peruse their hose collection. Unless someone here already knows what hoses you need.

That's the cam lobe. If the cam is .210, then the valve lift would be .294 at 1.4, .315 at 1.5 and .336 at 1.6. The rocker arm is an aftermarket roller rocker that fits mid 70's to mid 90's small block Chevy. 1.5 is the original ratio. They make them in both 1.5 & 1.6 ratios. You have to get the Chevy style screw in studs to mount them. Remove the Subie studs from the head and install them. I don't know if you then have to change the pushrods or not. You'll have to take measurements to see. That part is easy as there are all kinds of pushrod sources. When you do this, it's all to high to sit under the valve cover, so you'll have to modify the old one or fab something new entirely.

Well, if it was sounding like blowing through a straw before this repair, and you're having shift problems and were before the repair, I'd say you've got a plugged CAT. Creates back pressure in the cylinders and reduces the amount of air being pulled in by the engine thus reducing the vacuum to your modulator. If not.... Got me! lol

So, how 'close' are the Harley valves to Subie valves? What machining will you have to do to make them fit? I'm getting geared for a power build and was going to look at valves.

I was referring to the undercoating on the bottom of the floor pan. Trust me, it is undercoating that is aftermarket, not factory. There is oil on other parts and I was not discounting that. The odometer plastic is very different from vinyl seats. It is possible for it to sustain UV damage and not the seats. I have a few classic bikes that were produced before the gauge pods had UV resistant plastic. The ones that lived outside have the white turned yellow. Generally, vinyl seats don't crack if they just sit when they are exposed to sun. The UV leaches out the oils in the vinyl and dries it out. Then after you sit on it a few or several times, it cracks. You can prolong this by using Armorall which is the worst thing you can put on vinyl. Anyway you look at it, this smells like a dead carp on a boat ramp in the sun after a couple weeks.