skishop69

True, but someone could have pulled the vacuum pod and lever and afro engineered a linkage to the lever. Lord knows why anyone would do that though....

No, both are not correct. This has nothing to do with hubs or splines. If it did, it would move in 4hi & 4lo and it doesn't. Since he does not mention any 2wd issues, we must assume it works. 4hi &4lo use the same shaft for the 4wd engagement. Lo just engages a ratio drop at the front of the case. If lo works but high doesn't, it is not related to front drive components.

I don't think so. He says when he's in 'normal' 4wd it won't go, only in low. Either the 4wd shift linkage is out of adjustment or something is wrong in the tranny. I'd look at the linkage for damage and proper adjustment.

Yeah, no factory. Totally blew the "what vehicle" part. My bad.

I'd have 'em knock $200 off just for that lime green paint. lol Looks super clean and makes me wish I hadn't gotten rid of my '84 turbo coupe. Too bad it's 2wd.

Ummmm.... I saw several 14" rims in the link you provided.

To clarify, I simply stated engines with MAFs can have problems, not that he had one. As far as comparing Subarus and Chevys, yes there is a difference, but it is not 'fundamental'. An internal combustion engine is an internal combustion engine with the exception of the rotary and axial engines which are fundamentally different. Same goes for a carburetor unless it's variable venturi and even then, it does the same thing no matter who made it. To Naru: K&N does not use foam in the filter. It is a cotton/fiber blend. There are foam pre-filters and yes, the do fall apart. Yes, improperly serviced filters will suffer damage and they will allow more particulates in the engine. No argument there.... And don't even get me started on the joke of 'cold air' intake systems. Hey, lets take out the factory system that draws cooler air from ducting that goes outside the engine compartment and replace it with huge a** ducting and a filter that directly draws hot air from inside the engine compartment (except for a few better kits). Brilliant! While we're at it, I have some beautiful beach front property in Arizona I'd like to sell you....

Ingenious, yes. Scary as hell? Oh HELL yes. Spend the $40 and pick one up online or at Sears. I know one person who was killed by a strut spring and another who need reconstructive surgery on his face because of a strut spring getting loose. I narrowly avoided it myself years ago when a wall mounted compressor let loose and the spring whizzed past my ear. I heard the pop and had just enough time to move my head out of the path of the spring. Not something I'm going to chance. If you're going to use something like this, for the love of sanity and your life, throw a blanket over it while you're compressing it.

Yeah, we have that here, but it's called Miracle Pet and comes in a red spray bottle. A+ sh*t. We use it a lot because of the cats. Turn the fan on high and first spray some Clorox cleaner with bleach in the air inlet with the doors open. Switch through vent modes and spray during each switch. This will more or less 'clean' spots you cant reach. Let it sit overnight and dry out, then do the same thing with the Miracle Pet but use liberal amounts. Short of tearing everything out and wiping it down with Clorox, this is your best bet.

You will notice a bit more power. I have run K&N's on a number of my rigs. My boat has one, my 400hp '77 3/4 ton Chev, my '95 3/4 ton BB Chev, all my bikes and my XT. They're worth it. Just have to service them when they start to get dirty and if you have a MAF, you need to pay CLOSE attention to the oiling as the can says. a LIGHT coat of oil. I can't tell you how many MAFs I've replaced on peoples cars over the years because they soaked the filter. It goes right through and gets baked to the MAF skewing the readings or taking it out all together. I say go for it.

Yep, that's the easier way to go. We did a few convertible conversions back in the 80's and didn't think about the unibody flex on the first one. Eventually, it sagged enough that if you did manage to get the doors open, you couldn't close them. DOH! Turbosubarubrat.... Is that yours? That is awesome looking!

Silly me, I would have thought you'd like to be able to get in and out of the front doors. lol That's what I was referring to. Loss of structural integrity at the B pillars. Simply welding the hatch in is not going to reinforce the structure enough with a longer wheel base like this. You'll need some box tubing welded inside the roof, connected down through the B pillar and terminating in the bed wall so that the structural load is properly distributed along the same force vector. I'm not saying go gonzo with steel tubing at all. Have you ever cut up a Brat? Sadly, I have. The B pillar has some box reinforcing in some areas while others are just double walled. You'll have plenty of material from the roof left to scab in reinforcement. I love the idea and the rendering. I just want to point out areas that need special attention so that things don't go horribly wrong if there's ever an incident.

The roof adds rigidity and structural support to the unibody. You can't just cut a roof off a unibody car and run it around, especially if you're going to wheel it. You will have to reinforce the body and frame in other places along the entire length to compensate.

Damnitt! That's right. Why can't I ever remember that!? lol Different slope on the windshield. Sorry I missed the EA82 part as well. I realllllly need to make sure I have my coffee in the morning before I answer posts. lol

The glass is the same. Coupe, Brat and hatch are the same.

Yeah, you can. As long as it doesn't get below freezing where your at. Without the bypass to warm the carb and intake, it'll actually freeze the moisture in the incoming air due to the velocity and it will freeze to the bore and the throttle plate. Next thing ya know... You no go! lol If it gets cold enough, it will actually freeze the air fuel mixture doubling the effect. Had this happen with a CJ7 I had. Turned the carb into a block of ice. Of course, it was 20 below and we were running wide open chasing deer in a farmers field.....

Two things come to mind. I have the same rig and it did/does the same thing. When is the last time you had the filters changed and the tranny flushed? When mine started doing it a few years ago, I did both and added some Trans-X. I'm a driveabilty tech at a dealership, so I did it myself. It lessened the problem, but it's still there, just not as noticeable. The consensus between myself and our tranny guy is that I have a valve body issue of some kind. Since I've got 150K on it, I'm leaving well enough alone until it warrants pulling for and overhaul.

One word.... NAPA. I just had to put a new one in yesterday. Yeah, it was $172 my cost, but it's brass and copper. No frickin' aluminum or plastic. I may be a bit biased since I have a business account with them, but out of the hundreds of parts I get each year, there may be one or two that may be wrong or go bad. Oh, and you're supposed to use silver solder for radiators that are not aluminum.

Yep, they're a biatch! I made the mistake of draining mine before breaking the fill plug loose. Tried the impact gun and heat on it. Now I have a nice, rounded hole where there once was a square.... Had to pump fluid in through the drain hole. That was fun. I'll have to weld a bolt to it when I finally get around to doing that pinion seal so I can get it out.

And the winner is...... GLOYALE!!!! Just found it and in of all places, FB. Bleck! Ghm... It is posted under Austins Mobile Subarus, right hand side, half way down. Caption is converting from Carter to Hitachi. Unique, but worthless apparently. lol Poor performance. His post says it was on an 84 DL.

I got nothin'. lol Spent 2 hours searching gaskets, manifolds and engines, and the only thing I found close was a custom cast intake for the aircraft guys and that was a crappy pic. The single barrel gaskets I found were either rectangular or a rounded, diamond shape. Of course, I don't trust the aftermarket catalogs to be correct there and I couldn't find any dealer breakdowns that go back that far. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?? Bueller???

Ingall's is the source I used (the link above). Yeah, I suppose you could do that to press them out, but I know the last two EA81's I did were hella tight so I think it would be pretty tough. Addendum... If you use the Ingalls rods, the supplied bushing sleeve is 1/8" too long for proper bushing compression. I shortened mine 1/4" for a little extra. Nice and tight in the front end.

Yep, that's the easy way to get them out. You can pound the new ones in.... God forbid. Find a die, driver or socket that is ever so slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the control arm that slides in and out easily. Place the bushings in the freezer overnight. When you are ready to install them, place the control arms in the oven at 450 degrees. Baked CA! Yummy! lol Take one control arm and one bushing out. Place the control arm on a hard, flat surface and pound it in. The temperature differential will make it easier to get in and in some cases, it may slide right in. You'll have to move quick before the temps equalize. You need to make sure you have equal amounts of the inner steel sleeve sticking out each side. You'll have to put it in a vise for the last little bit. I just did mine last weekend, but I have a press. I had a nasty shimmy on decel around 50-60. I did the bushings and installed adjustable strut rods so I can play with the caster adjustment after I lengthen the lower control arms to straighten out the camber.

Yep, it'll need alignment. If you got it done at a reputable place, you can usually take it back in the first few weeks and they'll re-do it if you tell them it's pulling.

If you look at your front struts, just under the lower spring saddle, you will see a large nut. You'll need a thin wrench to adjust it up. I don't recall the size offhand, but you generally have to go buy a wrench and grind it down to fit in there. Since you just got new tires, I would have it aligned after raising it, as even 1/2" is going to affect the toe.