skishop69

Nope, they're not. They're all magnetic. Steel based.

Cam seals, cam towers, crank seal..... You're going to have to pull it apart, clean it up, run it and see.

I would think you'd be able to get enough people. I'd be interested in one, maybe two. They weren't chromed though. Some kind of polished tin. I spent a lot of time cleaning and removing dings from my sets and didn't see any evidence of chrome plating. Never seen one peal either and chrome usually tends to do that after decades.

Sounds like your hub is stripped out. Most likely the axle nut came loose on the last one and let the axle get loos and strip the hub. Pull the axle and look at the hub splines.

I didn't see floor panels in there....

Well, since they're not available new, you're bound for the jy with rechargeable sawzall in hand. lol

Yeah, but I was trying to give the guy a little hope. lol Oh, and dual ECU's? Not in American cars at all, and only high end Euro models like Ferarri and the likes. Aftermarket world seems to like them. Why I don't know...

It should be doable with one ECU. You would need to find injectors that would fit the TB, but with half the flow rating as the single original. You're still going to have flow issues in the heads as pointed out before, so on a stock engine, you won't see much if any, of a gain. It'd be interesting to try, but I don't see it working well.

Not sure longer will do it. Mine is 4' I believe. I have adjustable strut rods I'm going to be installing soon so I can adjust the caster which I believe to be the overall problem. Small tires and too much positive caster. Good for high speed stability, not so much for low speed turning and tight corners.

Yes on the ball hone, but if your measurements are loose, you might take too much out and put in the wrong cross hatch pattern if you're not familiar with using one. DEFINTELY yes on making sure you don't get pad particles left behind and I should have mentioned when you scuff the cylinders, you need to do it in a circular pattern around the circumference of the cylinder, not up and down.

+1. If the cylinder walls and piston skirts aren't scored and your measurements are good, should be no issue at all. Personally, I would take some fine Emmery paper or a Scotch Brite pad just to lightly scuff the cylinder walls to allow the rings to seat better.

Blow off valves are used to release pressure at high revs/pressure when you come off the throttle so you don't fubar the compressor. Chances of that happening on an EA81: Zero to none. If you have an FI turbo'd rig, the 'blow off' needs to be rerouted back to the intake side of the compressor or you get a 'hiccup' since the MAF has already seen the air coming in and the engine is 'expecting' it. Again, still not necessary with the little EA81.

To clarify Carfreak, you will suffer some turbo lag and bottom end power changing to the VF11 and more so the TD04. I haven't changed mine since I'm going EJ turbo, so I can't say how much. Based on swaps I've read about, it's negligible on the VF11.

Well, two things come to mind on the shift issue. Either there is something wrong in the tranny, or more likely, they screwed up the linkage for the 4wd selector when they put it in. The cold air issue.... If it's vacuum operated, then you have a vacuum issue and or the blend (temp) door is jammed or broken. If the vacuum is good and the blend door is operational, then you have an issue with the heater core. I don't have access to my manuals right now as they are buried behind all of my master bath remodel goodies in the back shop. Someone will know what to check.

The mystery paste is silicates that have separated and solidified from the coolant and water. Not uncommon in older cars where the coolant was never changed or cheap coolant was used or 'bad' water. Clean it out and forget about it. Does it turn over easily by hand? IE: You don't feel anything hanging up as you rotate it by hand? If you had rusted rings, ring land issues or valve issues, you've already done damage rolling it over by hand without soaking the cylinders with Marvel first. I doubt seriously that you have any such damage as the engines are hella tough. Leave the oil out, pour some Marvel down each plug hole and rotate it by hand for a few minutes to work it in. Add some more and do half a dozen rotations and let it sit over night. Rotate it by hand again for a couple minutes and drain out whatever may now be in the crankcase. Add fresh, cheap oil and with the plugs out crank it with the starter for a minute or so. Put the plugs back in but don't add coolant. See if it starts. Don't run it for more than a minute at any give time without coolant or you could cause damage. If it does run, and seems to run ok, do this a couple more times with at least 5 minutes in between runs to allow heat to redistribute evenly and dissipate. Add your coolant and run it after this if it was running ok. You will most likely have a lot of smoke out the exhaust from any residual Marvel or coolant. If there is coolant trapped in the CAT or muffler, it could take up to 30 minutes at a high idle to burn out and clear up.Out of a dozen cars I've picked up after sitting for years, only one ended up breaking the rings (my XT GL10) and I'm pretty sure that was done by the wrecking yard cranking it over before I bought it. Worst one: 1952 Studebaker Commander that sat in a field for 20 years. Engine locked up, but 'ran when parked'. lol Soaked it for a few days, got it rolling over by hand then fired it up and ran fine. Well, fine after plugs, points, cap rotor and carb overhaul.... Point is, if you've already rolled it over, you really have nothing to loose by following everyone's advice to soak it and start it.

Yep, towing the manual isn't an issue. I built a tow bar for my Brat and have logged several thousand miles with it behind my camper. Only issue I had was right off the bat. Sometimes on tight turns, the front wheels wouldn't return to a straight line. Now I just tow it steering locked. Yes, I am aware this is not the norm and it's harder on the front end components and tires, but since the caster isn't adjustable, I could see no way to get the issue corrected.

I'm going to agree with Gloyale on a bent clutch fork. You also could have a cracked pedal box allowing flex. Seen it on other cars before. If I understand what you did, you simply did the 5spd DR swap in your EA81. Since this has been done by many other members with no clutch cable, pedal or fork mods and no reported issues, I don't see there being a length issue, though I did note in my post on the swap that the EA82 pedal does have a longer throw. Still, I just made a cable adjustment and it's been driving fine.

I watched the news feed and the vehicle was identified in the light in front of the store. It was a tan Lego sedan.

Don't know any off hand, but since I live there, I'll keep my eyes peeled. Wagon, coupe or sedan?

Only a few have. It actually causes a power loss and as Gloyale pointed out in another post, you need the crossover pipe due to the firing order. No pipe and engine size are the factors for the loss of power on the low end.

+1 on the transfer punch. A must have to do it right.

Oooops.... Yeah, forgot to take into account the firing order. DOH!

If you are doing a true dual exhaust on the Brat, you do not need a 'T' or crossover pipe. They are only needed for high RPM, high horse power and high exhaust flow applications. Your EA81 is none of the above. Installing one will do nothing except cost you money. Seems to me, a couple bent sections right to a long glass pack painted with your choice of high temp color and a fabbed expanded steel heat cover should be cheap and easy.

+1 You can however add a lock to the tailgate handle with some work. You would have to get a lock cylinder with the right sized arm. Since most types of that kind of cylinder accept different arms, you can mix and match until you get the right one. You'd have to figure where to cut the hole in the tailgate to place the cylinder so that when it's turned, the arm locks into place against the scissor mechanism of the tailgate handle and prevents it from moving. The hole can't be perfectly round either. It will have to have slots cut in it to match the tabs on the lock cylinder housing to keep it from rotating. Yes, this thought has crossed my mind before. lol

Are you talking about using actual motorcycle mufflers? If you are, they will need to be identical (from or for the same bike) and they will have to come from a 1000cc bike that had only one pipe or you will have unequal flow and a restriction. Subaru 1.8l = 1800cc / 2 = 900cc. It will be far cheaper to go online and buy standard exhaust pipe components to piece together what you want than it will to buy customizeable motorcycle components. Piece together what you need from the standard stuff, then get yourself a couple of Supertrapps to put on the ends. You can tune them for performance and sound, and they sound awesome. I did this back in the 80's on my Buick Skyhawk (Chevy Monza) 231 V-6.