skishop69

It is a vacuum operated secondary. When the load on the engine is sufficient, the primary opened to a certain degree and (I believe) the choke open at least 3/4, it will open based on the amount of vacuum present in the primary barrel. It can be reworked to be a manual secondary.

I would have to say no. Different sensors and some of them read differently. Then there is the fitment issue. Someone else will bring up the why oh why would you replace the much more dependable EA81 for an EA82. The 30hp gain wouldn't be worth the future problems you may incur. IMO...

If you are installing a non turbo tranny , you don't need custom axles. The stock manual axles will fit. I don't know if the auto axles are the same.

Excellent! Like I said, I wasn't bashing, just pointing things out. I hate to see people all googly eyed over something and end up throwing good money after bad. Made that mistake a few times in my younger days. lol Private property you say? That must be nice.

Actually, you do. USFS regulations (AKA Federal law): All vehicles must be legal and licensed to travel any forest service access road or four wheeling trail. Next... The AMC engine and running gear are widely considered junk in the wheeling community. That's why everyone swaps them out. The tranny and transfer case will be ok, as will the rear diff since they were not manufactured by AMC, but borrowed from GM. The engine is weak by V8 standards and very expensive to mod as well as prone to low oil pressure issues from crank and cam wear. If you choose to use a Chevy drive train (the cheapest, easiest swap) you'll need everything but the rear diff. AMC put their front diff pinion on the opposite side from everyone else. Add to that they used their own bell housing pattern and output shaft spline count. It renders the tranny and t-case useless for any other manufacturer without mods and adapters though there were a handful of useable GM cases. IE: You could still use the t-case, front & Rear diffs. Next, the body... You've got so much rust there that it's going to start falling off the frame in pieces. These bodies were not meant to be mounted to a frame without some well engineered mounts. I would look very carefully around the current mounting points for cracks in the unibody. It's going to cost you more to properly fix that rust that buying another Brat and bastardizing it onto that frame. Your sill plates are shot and I'll bet if you check your A-pillar frames and under bed frames, you'll find they're on their way out too. These are the main structural points of this unibody. Without them, it's flex and tear city. I'm just being a realist here, not bashing. I built Jeeps for years for myself and others and know the pitfalls firsthand. Yeah, IF you get it titled, you can run it as-is. But for how long? Yes, it looks bad rump roast. I like it! IMO though, you bought a money pit based on emotion with no thought to repairs and upkeep and you paid too much. If they got it through their estate, AND it was licensed to the person listed as the deceased, then they have the legal paperwork to sign a release of interest or lost title document for you to license it with. If not, it's a bureaucratic nightmare of paperwork. 20 years? Rings are most likely rusted to the cylinder walls. The crank itself probably has rust spots on the journals and the carb will most likely be a solid block of resin unless it was drained or the gas evaporated before solidifying. Any bearing surface not sufficiently coated in grease or submerged in oil will have rust. My advice: Renegotiate for $400 or walk away if you can, even if you have to take a $100 learning lesson away from it. If you decide to go through with it, feel free to IM me and I'll help where I can.

+1

The flywheel is the wrong size to work with the starter, and, IIRC there is no disc with the correct spline count that will fit the EJ flywheel.

It's not stock. 84 was the first year EA81T in a Brat. As stated by Jono, 6-8 psi for everyday driving. It will handle 12, 16 is pushing it. By a boost controller with a turbo timer. It'll add years to the turbo and engine life.

Yeah, the yellow framed pic is using a VW, rear IRS swingarm assembly. Didn't clink the link the first time. lol

Turbosubarubrat's rig....

That front suspension looks suspiciously like a VW IRS assembly. Damn good idea! Custom axles I assume? Did you eventually do the disc upgrade?

Adam...... HOLY SH*T! That is excellent work. Looks well thought through. Sturdy and looks clean. I won't get into my build on my spare Brat until next summer at the earliest, but I've looked at many different suspension options to increase travel and stability but most of that comes down to the dreaded axle fitment. Love the lifted XT!

You can't put leafs in the front without extending some kind of frame forward. A 3 or 5 link in the back would be easy, and there are several ways to do an upper and lower control arm airbag or strut assembly in the front. With way less hassle that a frame transplant. IMO

Like Gloyale said, some cars you just don't wanna touch. I just turned a 95 Chevy 1 ton dually turbo diesel. The guy dumped almost $14k into it a little over 2 years ago and then got thrown in jail so it sat. I diagnosed his no start issue and one of the heavy duty guys did the starter. It started and ran, but no one drove it. He comes to pick it up and now it cranks, but won't start. During testing, it starts for me so I go drive it. HUGE mistake (or a warning to run screaming from it). It is mechanically stuck in third gear. No matter where you put the gear selector except park, it's in third. Including reverse! The turbo won't spool, the front end is popping, clattering and creaking, it's all over the road and when you step on the brakes, it rips the steering wheel out of your hand and veers right. I took it back to the shop and told our writer we were done and needed to walk, nay run, away from this as quick as possible. No one likes to turn business away, but when it comes to older cars, we have to be careful about what we say and do or we screw ourselves trying to do the right thing. I completely understand wanting to see the car first, but saying they probably won't work on it because of age without checking it out makes me think they just didn't want to deal with it. Sad since they are so easy to work on and maintain for long life spans.

+1 And it's actually scavaging effect you need to worry about, not flow velocity. Flow velocity is intake and head related though it can pertain to exhaust though it's rarely related to there. You want NO back pressure on a 4 stroke engine. You should never see more than 1 pound of pressure, and realistically, you should have a vacuum. Hence scavaging. Smaller pipe= more scavaging, Larger pipe=less. Of course, it's all related to displacement as Ibreakstuff mentioned. Turbo motors turbo back really has no effect going to larger pipe. NA motors suffer a loss of bottom end torque when you through too big an exhaust on.

Pnp in Tacoma. Check their inventory, they prolly have a car that will have one.

Sounds liked it's plugged. Either the pump screen, mail line or nozzles. We used compressed air at work for the lines and nozzles.

Excellent. Yes, I've seen your rig a few times on my trips to Shoreline. If it's holding that, I'll be fine.

Thanks G, that's what I needed.

+1 Gloyale. It isn't right. EA82 maybe? I'd have to go down and look at one of my spares. All my clutches have either been NAPA brand or LUK and I've never had a wrong one.

Something you will learn about the Brats is the catalog is not always right. You need to order a clutch pack for an 84 Brat. There was a flywheel change in 84 though I don't know if the pressure plate size changed but the disc didn't. I do know that all the Gen2 Brat clutches I've done, I've always ordered for 84 and never had an issue.

Thanks Caboobaroo.I remembered that one, but someone posted something about cutting extra off the pressure plate mounting ridge to increase clamping force so I was curious if it had actually been done. I have both flywheels, but the EA82 was the one I had Scott mill out. Hindsight is 20/20. lol

Yeah, I couldn't remember exactly which way it was supposed to go except that the XT6 pressure plate has more clamping force on it's own but you have to do something to the EA82 flywheel to make it work and gain more clamping force.

So I'm finally going to get around to dropping my EJ set up in my XT GL10. NA EJ22 with a turbo add-on, AWIC, oil cooler and boost controller. As I don't want to be eating up clutches, I was waiting to get a Spec 3 for it,, but I read a suggestion for using the XT6 clutch and not cutting the flywheel down for extra clamping force. Has anyone actually done this?

IIRC, the points cap is different. I would ask to see the distributor that is in it. I suppose if the ignitor went out and they didn't want to cough up for a new one, they might have thrown a points dizzy in. It sounds like it's all carb related to me and he's covering his a** going down the wrong road. Also, I have never seen a Subie points dizzy just completely give up the ghost and not work. Yes, the shaft bushing will go to crap, but it will still run.