skishop69

+1 Cranking up the front and rear springs not only screws your alignment up, but it'll ride like a brick. Ask me how I know... Get a lift from Scott in Bellingham. SJR lifts.

There is a gas cap adapter. I would use that, turn on the smoke and pull a few of the front lines to let it through the system faster then reconnect those lines when you see smoke come out. give it a couple more minutes then use a really bright flashlight to check all the lines and tank on the vehicle. A dimly lit are works best. Don't do it outside. Any breeze will blow the smoke away before you can see it. If you can't get the adapter, T a line up front and remove the gas cap until you see smoke.

Nope, urban legend. lol

I've been doing AC for 20+ years and I've never heard of condensers being rated. An aluminum condenser is an aluminum condenser. It doesn't care what refrigerant is running through it. What does matter is the seals, o-rings and oil. They must be rated for the type of refrigerant you use. Change those out accordingly, get the charge port adapters and then recharge with R134a and increase the charge 25% to compensate for the loss of cooling efficiency from R12 to R134. I've done close to 100 conversions over the years and never had an issue.

That is awesome! A coworker has a RHD 93 Leone that he is considering selling to me. I'm not terribly fond of the body style. but hey, it's RHD! lol

Yeah, we need to know if it's SPFI, SFI or carby.

AF to turbo duct. I should still have one so I'll check. I'm in Puyallup. Ski

That was a common problem on old carby rigs than ran pot metal carbs instead of aluminum if they got really hot. The pot metal doesn't dissipate heat as well as aluminum does so it would boil the fuel. It's called vapor lock. The old Rottenchesters (Rochester) & 'stock' Holley carbs used to do it. IIRC, the DGAV was cast aluminum though so I'm not sure why it would do that. Smaller engine compartment, less free air space and a coolant passage right under the carb might have something to do with it I suspect.

I stand corrected! My apologies to G. I thought I remembered reading here on a couple of occasions where it was tried and failed. I think I was thinking of the EA DR 5spd 411 build. Swapping shafts... Yeah, not having the EJ DR over here sucks. lol

"And if it's 5spd, he can stuff it's guts in a EJ trans case and use EJ clutch no adapter plate without any driveline or shifter mods and keep true 4wd and or difflock whichever he's got. " Sorry G, you can't do that. Everyone who has tried has ended in catastrophic failure. There is a slight variance in case clearances internally that eventually causes the main shaft and countershaft to eat each other. Add to that you can't put the DR guts in an EJ case unless by true 4wd you mean AWD. Also, the EJ case doesn't have the boss for the difflock lever, not that I recall anyway. I could be wrong about that... That being said, I agree the EA82 platform is a dead horse. If you drive like a normal human being, it's 'ok' at best. If you tend to push things, it will go sideways on you. I pushed my XT GL-10 all the time and after two rebuilds, I gave up. EJ it is and one of these days, I might uncover the parts and put them in! lol If you can't afford or do the EJ swap, then you can TRY to find a decent EA82, freshen it up and play nice with it.

Standard O2 and wide band are not interchangeable. The ECU has to have the capability to read the wide band which is far more accurate and able to read outside the 14.6:1 ratio for gas engines. Switching to wide band will net you nothing if the ECU can't read the full spectrum.

It's not the booster. Even if the spring inside the booster were to break, It wouldn't cause the pedal to go to the floor. Did you bench bleed the master before installing it? If not, that could be your issue. You need two people to bleed the system properly, or a vacuum bleeder or a one man bleeder hose with a check valve. Bleed in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF after you bleed the master. Keep going with each corner until you get clear fluid and no bubbles.

Dash blue is kind of a medium blue and navy is dark blue. Either will work, but keep in mind they will fade. I personally try to match the color to the interior.

You can't bleed brakes on your own unless you have a check valve bleeding hose. Without that, someone has to pump the pedal 3x and hold on the third while the other person opens the bleeder screw while holding. Close the screw and then release the pedal. Repeat until no air comes out of that circuit.

You need the controller for safety reasons. Never hot wire a fuel pump. In an accident, it won't shut down and could lead to someones death and possibly a lawsuit to boot. If you can't afford to replace it, try this.http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html I use these when I do restorations. Just finishing a frame up restoration on a 68 Mustang and it got one. Works perfectly.

+1 Both compressors have roughly the same internal volume for moving freon, but the Lexus has a variable displacement compressor where the old school Brat compressor is a fixed displacement compressor so it's pumping full tilt all the time (unless the pressure switch shuts it off). The variable displacement may be mechanical or ECU controlled and is based off system pressures, flow and temp to yield acceptable cooling with minimal load on the engine to keep your MPGs up. Add to that, as you stated, the cabin size difference (Lexus being 2-3x the volume of a Brat) and the fact that R134 does not coll as well as R12 and there you have it. Your Lexus may also be having issues. Low charge, sticky temp door, plugged or stuck orifice/TXV or a cooling fan or condensor air flow issue. Give me old school AC any day.

"Yes, but the heat will expand the bolt, more than the hole in the crank, making it tighter. While making the bolt weaker. When I've most often used the torch method successfully, it's when heating the "nut" side of things. In this situation, the nut expands more than the bolt, making a looser fit. " Not entirely true. The bolt and the part it is in will both expand, albeit at different rates, but it does create the desired effect and the metallurgical change to the bolt is negligible unless you go totally gung-ho. I have used the smoke hatchet many times over the years to remove locked down bolts and have never had on break or fail. Yes, it is a last resort.

They would/should have tested it as an 83 (EPA regs state it has to be tested as the registered MY) which means it should've passed with flying colors. Did it fail HC's at cruise or idle? Cat would only come into play at cruise, otherwise, you could have a bad O2, leaky injector(s), bad MAF, timing set wrong, bad ECT, bad t-stat, bad EGR or low compression. Annnnnd GO! lol The only other two things you could've failed are NOx and CO. NOx failure would be timing advanced too much or a bad EGR.

Try having several THOUSAND rear differentials go out because the manufacturer forgot to clean them out. These things should NOT happen.

Hey, I did Google it! lol That's cool.

Interesting. I've never seen either in any of the brochures or in pics for that matter. Wonder if it was another of those dealer packages or something else after the factory. Any of the guru's care to weigh in?

Maybe it's just me, but what are you talking about? lol

I recall hearing something about two different dizzys, but that's it. lol Someone else here will know the difference between the two. Also, if the dizzy gear roll pin is sheared, the timing will be off and it will move on you while trying to set timing to add insult to injury. lol

+1 You could also have an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. I missed a line on the intake boot once and she idled right up to 2K.

+1 I was thinking side bearing on the carrier in the tranny. Possibly a ring and pinion noise. Wouldn't hurt to drain the gearbox and see what comes out.