skishop69

It's kind of a pain, but you can remove them with the furl rail and set them on a sheet of cardboard. This will show any leaks. Btw, you need to do this with the fuel lines attached and key it on a few times before you let them sit.

Expansion of the exhaust components is what's changing the tone. As they heat, they become 'softer' and the tone drops. This also effects overall system pressure which also changes the tone. Stainless steel systems aren't prone to this phenomena due to nickel being a 'harder' metal.

What I can tell you about 'generic', low end torque wrenches is they don't hold up well. Now, once in a while use by DIY mechanics, you should be ok. Every day use, forget it. When, not if, they need recalibration, it's a PITA to find someone who will touch it. Dial indicator wrenches are great for small bolts and pinion/side bearing preload setting. They can be a PITA for use though as there are sometimes you just can't clearly see the dial. That's why the click type is better. Set it and go. Dial indicator types require less recalibration than click type, and if you forget to set a click type back to zero and store it for extended periods, you've just screwed it up. Yours may be tougher to use in certain locations, but if you're not using it frequently, you should be ok. Remember, you always get what you pay for. 20+ years of trial and error have proved that to me.

There is no air strut made that will bolt in. Years back when I got my XT GL10, I spent hours searching. At the time, there were 2 companies willing to give it a go to rebuild or build new ones to the tune of, please be seated..... $1500/strut. That was their estimated starting price. Ummmmm..... pass.

I did not know they had ECU's that early. Duly noted. Did you fail idle or cruise CO? There is a difference in the approach to fixing the problem. Cruise CO is generally a CAT and idle CO is usually a rich condition or incorrect timing. Plugged air filter, PCV issue, too much blow by, float level too high in the carb, timing not advanced enough, idle mixture set too rich.

So if they stopped the procedure, it didn't truly fail. I doubt it had and ECM to begin with. IIRC, 84 was the first year for the electronic carb and it came on California models. It had an ECS (SES) light under the speedo. Someone most likely bought a direct fit CAT which would have been generic to all models and included the O2 bung. Instead of finding the correct plug, someone spent $20 on a cheap O2, cut it and installed it. If Colorado still does the visual inspection, you need to pull that and put the plug in. They might see that and suspect the rest of the components have been removed and fail you on that alone. Check the engine sticker on the underside of the hood. It will either say conforms to Federal emissions or California emissions. If it says Federal, no ECM.

I doubt the springs would stay in place. If you look at regular struts, the upper and lower perches are formed to hold the springs and evenly distribute the load on the coil. Without the formed sections, the springs would pop out. Search air suspension. I know there are several write ups on which GL struts will work direct bolt in from a PnP.

The cam cut is different in turbos as is the timing curve. This difference gives it a little more oomf on the bottom end until the turbo spools up. No turbo, no mid or upper range power. It's a dog. Stay away from hills. lol

lmao! Love it! Luckily I have an understanding other half who's crafting stinks things up just as much or more than my baking parts in the oven. Of course, a good range vent helps a lot. A just a common sense note: Don't cook freshly painted parts. Flame on!!! lol

+1 Ultra grey is actually the factory equivalant of what manufacturers use to seal components with no gaskets. Though I prefer using no sealant on any gaskets except cork. Just makes taking stuff apart and clean up that much more of a pain.

Leaded gas was done away with before 1980. It started in 1976. Not an issue. However, I believe he is referring to methanol. No real effect on vehicles except a very minor decrease in MPG depending on the percentage added. Two strokes don't like methanol at all. A large part of that is methanol is detrimental to most plastics. On two strokes, that's a lot of internal carb parts and fuel lines. No issues with our cars. Correction: I did mean ethanol. Early morning response and not enough coffee. lol

If it's coming on at idle and you have to tap the throttle, it's most likely the TPS. A knock sensor code will set and stay. You need to connect the diagnostic connectors and get the code to fix it.

Crap..... DUH! lol Hmmmm.... Sheared the key on the crank gear?

Sounds to me like when you hydro-locked it, the cam bound up as the valves couldn't open against the pressure. If you're timing gears were worn enough, you could have slipped a tooth on the cam gear and that would account for the loss of power and timing retard.

I don't believe the ECU software was written to monitor the heater circuit. That wasn't required til the late 90's. I know when I disconnected the O2 on my XT for testing, it only set the O2 code. The system was designed for a heated O2, so you will most likely have some runability issues while the vehicle is reaching operating temp. If you have emissions in your area, there is the possibility it won't pass. Personally, I wouldn't do it. Put the correct O2 in.

If it's only leaking water when the AC is on, then there is debris in the evaporator box that is plugging up the drain tube. I've ran into it on other vehicles. One a mouse got into and nested then moved out and the other was just crap growing in it. No mater how many times we blew out or roto-routed the drain, it would eventually start backing up. We had to disassemble the box and clean it out.

From what I remember on reading for a swap of this nature... The ECU, engine harness cut down and excess removed, build a cross member for the tranny. hybrid axles as neither the Brat or the Lego axles will work, custom shift linkage and driveline. I believe the rear diff may be a bolt in, but don't remember for sure.

Nick, You won't be able to do what you want to with the auto since it has a hydro clutch system and have any semblance of reliability. That's the first issue. The second is you live a climate with rain 9 months out of the year. The rear of the vehicle is far to light to provide any type of reasonable traction in wet weather with the tires available to us Brat owners for a daily driver scenario. The a** end would be all over the place. lol If you're looking to drive it for fun in dry weather, it might be ok, but I'd recommend against it. Just my 0.02.

:lol:

Not 1oo% sure, but I believe the center diff did not come about until the FT5MT so the 3 spd auto would be direct couple as well.

GLoyale, thank you. Bantum... Please stop posting links that do not apply to this tranny. It is not FT, it does not have a center diff and it is 100% to the rear with the front axles out. 4WD has nothing to do with reverse. Again, the pinion shaft (main shaft) is the main drive that ALL gears go through. You will still have reverse unless you didn't have it to start with, then you've got a whole other set of issues. Again, what you are proposing is far more work than changing the axle unless it's a money issue.

Bantum. It's all good. It's just inexperience. We've all been there. In this case, no dyno needed. Simple math and physics. While you will loose some power to the rotation friction of the tranny, it's all going out the back. If you take an axle or both out of a FT5MT that does not have a locked center diff, you go nowhere. Just the same as would happen if you pulled an axle from a front wheel drive vehicle. Power follows the path of least resistance so the side with no axle just sits there rotating. With no resistance at the front diff on a FT5MT, the front diff would just spin.

Bantum.... No. A 1980 4spd, 4wd selectable trans has no center differential. In fact, all of our selectable 4wd trannies in the states have no center diff. Pull a front axle or both, put it in 4wd and full power goes to the rear. The pinion shaft in the Subies is what other trannies would have as a main or power shaft. It supplies power transfer to the front diff and rear output regardless of what the front diff is doing. It's a solid shaft with a solid couple to the rear output when engaged. With no center differential (available on the FT5MT) it's split 50\50 unless you disable the front diff, then it's 100% out the back in 4wd. This is the reason we can do the Nissan T-case upgrade in super lifted Subies. Full power out the back to the T-case, split there to front and rear, with a rear diff mounted up front and axles attached to it. I would replace the axle as suggested. It's like $60 through NAPA and an hour to change. No grease, no mess. You're talking about changing the CV and that's a waste of time IMO.

+1 it's not worth it....

Actually, you would get all the power. The rear shaft output is coupled to the pinion shaft in the tranny when placed in 4wd. The output is distributed equally. There are no spider gears in the tranny as far as the 4wd is concerned. Only in the differential section. It will work temporarily, but I do remember others on the board stating things tend to break if you don't go easy on it as the 4wd coupling gears were not meant to take the full torque of the engine. You would also have to leave the outboard CV bolted to the hub to keep it in place.