skishop69

Heads Up in Auburn. They have done tons (literally, lol) of EA82 heads. All they do is aluminum heads and I've been taking all my shop work to them for 15 years. Warped heads, cracked heads, or just a rebuild, they can fix them.

Yep, I think Shawn is right based on your last post of the slop. Also, the bushing that holds the stick in the mounting 'shelf' can go bad as well. I think GD had a fix for that.

Does it try to shift? Does it grind? Does it go part way in at all? I doubt it's a linkage problem if all the other gears work fine. It's probably internal. There are no linkage adjustments.

You know the lower pieces of the door panel are reversible so you can switch the door pocket and flat panel locations moving your speaker to the front of the door. I believe you still have to cut a hole in the door itself for the speaker though which is why I left mine alone. It's been done by a few members.

I did not know that. lol The turbo that is. The one turbo EA81T I had got little to no attention between the time I picked it up til the time it rolled out of here. I still recall one of my first second gen Brats not having any of the wonderfully inventive government emissions crap and still having the manifolds. Only because I fought exhaust leak episodes like the zombie apocalypse. lol Then again, that was 20 years ago so..... It does make sense they added them for the ASV rather than rework the head to accommodate the Feds. And Subies aren't your normal engine. lol

No, that little piece is the 'manifold'. Odd they never did that down under. I seem to recall a couple early EA81 Brats I had with no ASV and they had the manifolds. I honestly don't remember if either of my Gen1 Brats had them or not, but I've never seen an EA81 without them. Subaruist..... As for dual exhaust. Don't bother. You will yield no more useable horse power and actually decrease what useable low end torque the motor had to begin with. Flex tubing..... Another waste, especially on an off road rig taking abuse. I experimented with that stuff back in the day. There's a reason it's never gone mainstream. It's all made of crappy low grade steel with some other metals mixed in to cut costs. It doesn't hold a weld very well. Also, the actual spiral winds of the tubing are formed from very thin, flat steel. This again makes welding fun and if you're off roading and your exhaust meets the proverbial immoveable object, guess what.... RIP! I have this on first hand experience. Clamping will only hold so long in an off road situation as well, Again, because it's thin and moves a lot it will eventually loosen. If the exhaust is hung correctly and has the correct joint at the y pipe to rear section, you won't have any issues.

Rust on the bearings? I thing you mean rust in the cylinders and rings. Bearings can't rust, they are non-ferrous. The crank journals could possibly rust, but I've only seen that happen twice and both engines were stored outside, uncovered for years. Even after the engine is shut down, pulled and stored, there's still a thin layer of oil on the bearings and journals. It still seems like a good price.

Wait a second... You want to take the exhaust 'manifolds' off and bolt your exhaust straight to the head? Not a good idea if that's what you're doing. Those are not only there for the emissions piping, but to direct and dissipate heat away from the head. Removing them would most likely cause the flange on your Y pipes to warp and possibly cause some head or valve issues in the long run. I could be wrong and someone here may have done it with no issues, but as I understand it, with my basic knowledge of engine design, they need to be there.

I am normally one of the first to be appalled at a bastardized Brat, especially if it got an EA82T (shudder), but it looks like that one was done right and it looks hella cool like that. There is enough motorhead experience here that we can help you get it going in tip top fashion. I'm sure you're busy, but at some point, I (and I'm sure several others) would like to see pics of how the suspension and 5 lug were accomplished including pics of the axles since as I understand it, they have to be hybrid to work with the 5 lug stuff. If the person who did that is still around, I hope they'll chime in. Great find!

Thanks, I've already swapped the terminals, but I'm sure there are others here who want to be rid of the old sealed beams. As with every other upgrade, I wished I'd done it sooner. lol

Good to know, but unless I'm looking at the pic of the adapter wrong, the wires go from the same terminals on the sealed beam to the same terminals on the H4 connector. That won't solve the problem of the Subarus being ground switched and not + switched like everyone else.The outside terminal wires would have to cross from connector to connector and they don't. The connectors on the Subies plug directly into the H4 housings.

I bought them from Evil Bay. lol Just search: 4x6" BLUE LED HALO PROJECTOR HALOGEN HEADLIGHT HEADLAMP BULBS CRYSTAL CLEAR SET They were $100. Not bad considering it's at least $50 to get four decent sealed beams.

+1 on .060 being too much. On top of what G said, it'll move the mounting points for the intake inboard making it very difficult if not impossible to get the intake bolts in. NEVER weld the head surface on an aluminum block unless you have a very experienced welder and a good machine shop. The heat alone can cause cylinder and block warpage you can't fix properly. The block has to be pre-heated, welded, controlled cooled and then checked for squareness and line checked through the cam and crank bores. Pretty sure the cost would be more than $250. If you don't have the money for a block, JB weld the pits as suggested, level everything with 300 grit wet/dry sand paper and a block of wood. Put your heads on and add 5ftlbs to the required torque. JB is tough stuff. It'll hold.

So I go out to install my new nerd lights in my 84 Brat. You know, the uber cool, H4 glass housings with the fancy schmancy half halo LEDs. Simple, right? Disassemble grille, remove, replace, assemble. Easy peasy! Right? WRONG! Now in lo beam, all four are on with the inner two very dim. On hi beam, the inner two are bright and the outters dim. Wtf?! Never dawned on me there could be an issue since everything was working fine before the swap. So I stomp dejectedly into the shop and pull the schematics to see wth is going on. Damn Subaru and their bass ackwards switched ground system! Everyone else in the world uses switched +! So instead of ground being your 'common' wire, B+ is. You have to switch the RB wire with the R wire on the right side and the RL wire with the RB wire on the left side on the lo beams only. I then remembered someone else had this problem. Quick search and voila! They just said they swapped terminals, not which ones, so I thought I would add that to make it easier. Now to decide how I want to hook up the LEDs... Probably should add... To remove the terminals from the connector housing, you need a flat terminal release tool or a very small, rigid, flat object. Looking at the connector head on, you will see the terminal slots at 12, 3 and 9 o'clock. You are swapping 3 & 9. Inboard of the terminal slots you will see a small cavity with part of the terminal in it. Insert the tool between the terminal and the very inner most edge of this cavity. Pry the top of the tool inwards and then pull on the wire from the back side while maintaining pressure with the tool. This will unlock the metal retaining tab on the terminal from the housing. Bend the tab back out, an eighth of an inch is sufficient, and install in the opposite slot.

Hmmmmm... You're driving sounds suspiciously like mine. I have on many occasions had as much as 3/4 of a coed of would in the Brat bombing back down the mountain to the camp site drifting around corners straight up on one side and straight down on the other with my buddy defecating in his all too tighty whities and screaming like a girl to slow down. I would love to get together and bomb around on the forest service roads, but I'm afraid this might jump start the apocalypse. lol

Lmao. Vengeance is mine sayith the Brat!

#1 on grabbing another speedo from a fly by wire set up. I'd have to check the circuits on one of those set ups, but I believe one of the driver resistors could be swapped for a pot that would allow you to calibrate it for different tire sizes. You are correct about the cable speed remaining static. The ratio is not the same for all makes though. Manufacturer gearing decides that. The change is also not exponential, but linear. My bad. I was half asleep when I replied. lol Easy example for others: If you're driving 60mph but the speed reads 50mph, then you're slow 1mph per every 6mph. As far as getting distance per pulse, I'd help you there but my XT is under wraps til I get my bathroom done and move on to other projects. I assume you want to be able to correct for tires sizes so you can either lift it or rally it?

You're going to have to do some math and you'll need the car. You'll need to measure the circumference of a correct size front tire. This will be the distance covered by the tire per rotation. Jack up one front wheel, put the car in neutral and rotate that wheel one time while someone counts the number of revolutions the speedo cable makes. That will be the number of rotations the cable makes covering that distance. Multiply 5280 by 12 giving you the number of inches in a mile. Divide the number you get by the circumference of the tire and then multiply by the number of rotations the cable made rotating the tire once. This will give you the number of cable rotations for 1MPH. I'm going to have to think about the rest of the math since the actual speed the cable increases with the vehicle speed is an exponential function.

If the cone washer or hub is worn, the cone washer will bottom out on the axle stub face before you get proper bearing torque causing movement. Happened with my Brat and took me a bit to figure it out. Could be your issue....

You've got debris in the float bowl that's moving around and blocking the idle circuit. You'll need to take it apart, clean it out and blow compressed air through all the circuits. That should get you handled.

If you're sure the noise is coming from the dizzy, I can only think that the pick up in the base is loose or damage and the reluctor wheel is hitting the pick-up. Take the dizzy out and spin it by hand to see if you hear or feel anything.

That looks awesome! Let us know about durability. Easier than my idea but I have jump seats and I want them to look original. Yes, acetone is flammable, but I would hope anyone else trying my method would be smart enough turn the heat off during applications. lol It's going to dry almost as soon as you apply it and I've placed painted parts in a heat box as well as the oven to cure/dry after shooting.

I've got 2 down in the shop I snagged to convert for head units and they are both different from my Brat. They were both from thrashed cars at the PnP so it's possible it's like PK said, 2wd vs 4wd. I didn't look at the cars since I was there for something else and it was an after thought. Anyone got a wagon and a Brat they can check?

The console is different, but could be made to work with some modification. The radio console is different on wagons vs Brats. It's different at the bottom where it meets the center console. Angles, mounts and such. It would be easier to get the radio and center console from a Brat and install it. Of course, finding them is going to be harder than finding one for a wagon so finding the wagon console would be easiest.

To clarify manifold vacuum better... Manifold vacuum is at it's highest with the throttle closed. The full volume of the cylinders is still trying to pull that amount through the teeny tiny space between the throttle plate and the throttle bore. It can't. Physics won't allow it. As you open the throttle, the vacuum decreases because the cylinders are now able to more easily ingest more air past the throttle plate. That is why turbo cars use vacuum supplied below the throttle plate. The turbo turns vacuum into pressure in the intake and the tubing prior to the throttle plate. The spring has a different rating so when vacuum turns to pressure, it helps the spring open the diaphragm. I was wrong about most MPFI systems. I put my mouth (fingers) in overdrive while my brain was in neutral. Naru was correct. Most MPFI systems use full vacuum behind the throttle plate acting against the spring to pull the diaphragm back and close off the fuel feed line opening the return line (low pressure). As the throttle is opened, vacuum decreases and the spring forces the diaphragm to close off the return and open the feed line to allow more fuel and pressure to the injectors. We were both correct about how each system operates though the MPFI set up is more widely used as Naru stated. You need to know which type you have and all my MPFI Subies have been turbo so I shouldn't be speaking on a non turbo set up. I apologize for confusing the situation.