skishop69

That is a normal set up. The spring inside the regulator works to keep it closed with no vacuum applied. This restricts fuel flow to minimum pressure. Since it is ported above the throttle plate, there is no vacuum until you open the throttle. This then creates vacuum above the throttle plate which acts against the spring increasing the fuel pressure. The more throttle, the more vacuum, the more pressure. As for the high HC, You have a few possibilities. Leaky fuel injector, bad regulator, weak coil, or cap/rotor, plugs or plug wire issues. Check the condition of all your ignition components and your timing as well as your air filter. Whatever it is, it's a small issue and may not even be noticeable.

DO NOT use paint stripper! It'll eat that plastic up! The gray is plastic that the dye has leached out of. Some of the gray may be oxidation, but do not use anything like paint stripper to clean it. Actually never thought of plastidip and I've used it on other things. Properly applied, I could see that lasting a while.

Every 'wipe on' bumper/plastic restorer I've used or research only lasts a year at best. I used the heat gun and shoe polish method on my black Brat and that lasted 18 months. Any kind of plastic 'paint' is going to chip, scratch or flake. I've been researching actual plastic and polymer dyes as they are not something that is readily available to the public due to their caustic nature. I have come up with something I think will work but have not yet had time to implement it. Acetone causes plastic to 'open up' and soften temporarily. Mixing it 2: with the appropriate color enamel or laquer should create the consistency of a dye. To make this as effective as possible, the piece in question would need to be heated uniformly to around 120 degrees to pre-soften the plastic opening up the surface. Wipe the mixture on and wipe off the residual. It should soak into the plastic. Let it cool off and repeat 2 more times. My plan was to build wooden boxes big enough to contain my bumpers and vent them to allow a small space heater to blow in one end with a restriction on the other end to hold the heat in to a degree heating them uniformly. I got the idea from talking to an upholstery guy I know who says they use acetone mixed with a dye to re-dye auto carpet which is polymer based. The reason the plastic fades is that the oils that hold or contain the dye are leached out by the sun and environment over time. If you try this, let me know how it works. I'm prolly 2 months out from having time to do it.

As Gloyale stated, it is the 87 XT manual. I wasn't clear when I said what I said meaning the XT FSM for 87 covers the 87.5 intake, schematics and tests. I'd have to dig mine out, but I remember it having 3 separate books. Any XT manual for 87 printed after 8/87 will have the correct info included for 87.5 but I don't remember offhand if it's in one section or scattered. Mine are buried in the back shop behind all of my bathroom remodel supplies. If it's uber critical, I can dig them out.

There is a separate FSM for the XT that covers the 87.5. I luckily happened across when in an XT I bought. Since I have an 87.5, it was gold to me. Has come in handy more than once.

Nice. I would kill for a RHD Brat.

It is called a block check kit and you get it at NAPA. It comes with a device (tube) that you pour the block check fluid into. One end goes on the radiator fill neck and the other has a squeeze bulb. You squeeze it and it pulls air out of the cooling system into the tube and through the fluid. The fluid is blue. If it turns green to yellow, it indicates the presence of gaseous hydrocarbons in the cooling system. IE: Exhaust gas and blown head gasket or cracked head.

There are a number of people here who would know that will hopefully chime in. In the meantime..... Pics! Please!

+1 on how to Package it. Since you're fairly close to Denver, I would check with Forward Air shipping. Misleading name. It's all trucking. They do however have the cheapest shipping rates for things like this since they are shipped by dimensional weight. IE: How much other crap could we jam in there for the same weight and make more. I have shipped many arcade games this way and is by far the cheapest for odd/heavy items.

83 Should have been the cut off for the 'leftover' orange clusters. 84 and up they should all be white. You might have an early production 84 that might have had one slapped in. My 83 has it, but my 84 and 87 do not. I've also pulled 3 other orange ones just to have. lol

Yes, they are all more or less 'cardboard'. There may be something else out there, but I've never had a major issue with the fiber ones so I haven't looked. I will tell you if your rig is down and you need it bad, then take a shoebox, trace the manifold, cut them out and use them. They will work. I've had to do it 3 times on different rigs in BFE circumstances. The worst was hunting season in Colorado at Dunn Peak 10,000 feet elevation. 10 days on a 4x4 with a shoebox gasket where the thermostat was because they didn't have either in Montrose. Never leaked.

O!M!G! I'm LMAO!!! That was too funny!

As you described it, sounds like ring and pinion whine. Could go on forever or could eat itself. If you have the other tranny, swap it out.

Either the input shaft bearings or the ring and pinion. Usually once the start to whine, the will continue. The donor 5spd for my Brat did. Luckily, I had a 2wd parts tranny so I swapped the ring and pinion. All quiet now.

Yes it will. Do a search here for 5 speed swap. Auto to stick is a little more work, but doable.

Yep, those are the ones. A couple people here have done it and it's on my list.

The cam would have to be ground and treated to accept roller lifters or the lifters will tear it up. I'm sure Delta can do that. If you can find the correct diameter and height lifters.... Whammo! Bob's your uncle! lol Or find the right diameter and close height then pushrods to make the overall correct height. Rollers are great for freeing HP and reducing heat.

Actually, there is a sealant that is used with these gaskets. It is not a silicone. It is a non hardening, very tacky substance similar to butyl tape but much more pliable. Ask a windshield shop and they'll know the name. It escapes me at the moment. You need to use this if you don't want leaks and you can still remove it if necessary. Somewhere her, there is a brief write up I did in another post when someone was asking what to use and how to install, but I don't have time to look right now. You'll need to prime and paint any rust spots prior to install or they'll just get worse and end up leaking.

Since the older Subie gauges are not as bullet proof nor quite as accurate, 12-14 volts is a normal reading though generally closer to 12. If you're alt is grinding, good chance it is toast and that the regulator is going out too which would be why your gauge was all over the place. Subie gauges are notorious for reading high or low when they go, but not so much with the jumping around. Start with the alt, and I'll bet you won't have a gauge issue after.

The solenoid is mechanically weak or not sealing so you'll need to replace it. We used to see this all the time with EGR solenoids on Chevy's in the 90's. easy fix.

Holy green Batman!!! lol A more detailed account of what is going on would be helpful including known vehicle history.

Oddly enough, here in the states, the fwd is the only one with a longer fork. The turbo and n/t should be the same as long as it is not a turbo fwd. My GL-10 appears to have the same T/O fork as the GL and XT6. So what you have written down is correct if my mind metric conversion calculator is correct. lol

Ok. Naru is the winner! lol After a whole lot more research and number crossing, the 33.66" cable is correct. The two longer cables I mentioned previously are fwd for turbo or n/t. I worked backwards assuming the XT6 and the GL used the same cable and then confirmed it. Thanks for the answer and getting me on track.

Yeah, They're not clear. lol The factory Subaru catalog lists 2. One n/t and one turbo, but doesn't give part numbers or lengths.I was hoping someone had been down this road.

And now I'm confused. lol No matter what site or parts house I call and build it as an 88 XT4wd 4cyl n/t, it doesn't show the listing for the GA181 and when I look that up, it shows it as 33.5" for all 84-89 Subaru so I'm thinking that's not right. Naru, have you physically installed this cable in an XT?