skishop69

So the daughters 88 XT needs a clutch cable. 4 cyl, n/t 4wd. The car isn't here nor can I get to it any time soon or to mine for that matter. lol Everywhere I've looked, they list 2 cable lengths but don't differentiate which one it takes. One is 36" and the other is 37.25" I assume one is 4wd and the other fwd. I seem to remember something about the fwd T/O fork having a longer throw which would mean the longer cable, but not sure. Of course, even if I had the car, I'd have to pull it out to measure it then leave the car down for a week or put it back in. Wondering if anyone here happens to know which one it's supposed to be. Thanks guys!

Nice set up! But.... You're steering wheel has been installed on the wrong side! Is that a sheet with the edges rolled, or plate with machined edges?

Take a look at these install kits and see which one will work best for you. They push the deck out an inch or so. Check your shifter clearance to console in 3rd gear before you install one though. Metra #'s 99-4544, 99-4012 and 99-3043.

Oh man!!! If I wasn't right in the middle of a bathroom remodel. Not a bad price at all for the whole package. looks to be in excellent shape. Gotta be a member ride. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller??? lmao

I don't remember there being any adjustment studs per se, but if there are, you will see one stud on each track poking through the door inside the panel. You would loosen the jamb nut and adjust the stud in or out to change the in/out angle of the top of the window. Since I don't think there are and if I'm understanding that you want to bring the top of the glass in tighter to the seal, you could space the bottom mounting points of the track farther outboard by installing washers in between the tracks and the door. This would tip the top of the glass in towards the seal.

I'll look at mine today, but based on your pics, that hole is outside the air filter and poses no issue plugged or not.

I know there was talk from a few people here that had picked up superchargers cheap and were going to do it, but never heard the end result. There are several Aussies on the board who have done it. Based on the sturdiness and condition of the engine, Both it and the tranny should take 6psi of boost without any issues. Hopefully one of them will chime in for experience.

Yes, it is grounded off the door switch in the jamb. Assuming you've replaced the light and checked for positive voltage, the contacts in the jamb switch have corroded. Just pop them out and clean them up with some emery cloth the apply some dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.Stock, they are pretty weak because there's not much reflective surface behind the bulb. I took mine apart and lined everything inside with aluminum foil. Yeah, you heard me right. lol Cut your pieces to fit shiny side out. Apply a few drops of super glue here and there, place them in, smooth them, trim, let dry and clean them up. Doubled the useable light from mine.

Yeah, I blew over your previous post on the stub swap. My bad... I was talking about the 5spd DR not the 5 spd AWD as it seemed to me Miles was referring to the DR when he was talking about Jerry's kit. I should had clarified. Seem to be doing that a lot lately. lol

There are other manufacturer install kits that can be made to work with the Brat for a cleaner, if not sometimes, near perfect install. 88-94 Chevy truck kits. The Metra install kit # 99-4544, 99-4012 and 99-4505. All include 1" extensions to mount the deck farther out and don't have a wider profile than the Chevy truck ones. The Metra 99-3043 would be one of the best since to DIN depth is actually adjustable. The frame mounts and the DIN section can be slid in and out. Of course you're going to have to cut a big hole in the center radio console to mount these kits, but depending on where you cut it, won't look bad. All of these can be found at Sonic Electronix under installation dash kits.

Pointing out.... If you use a 4spd driveline while swapping in a 5spd, the driveline has to be lengthened, not shortened. I just did my swap and had the one piece and two piece shafts next to each other. The 4 spd tranny is actually longer by a good amount than the 5spd. On the 5 spd, they did away with the tailshaft housing making it shorter.. The EJ trans swap is going to cost way more since you have to hybrid axles and get a rear diff. It's a much stronger though.

The drilling has been done. Can't remember who did it, but it worked well. You can lengthen the control arms without changing ball joints or knuckles. You need 4 of the same control arms. Cut one pair in the same place and cut the other pair so the inboard section is 10mm longer and weld that section to the outboard section of the first pair you cut. Be sure to weld some plates over your weld section for strength. Don't want any future uh-ohs.

Awesome! Wish I still had any of my Gen 1s. Stupid selling them. Could have all 3 gens in the driveway.....

Sounds like a carb issue or fuel pump. Maybe fuel filter. Where are you?

Make, model, year?

It's not factory. Trace the wires and see where they go....

Sounds like the diodes in the regulator are on there way out. Diodes will pass less current and voltage when cold (a marginal amount less). As they 'heat up', the electrons will pass more freely and the current and voltage will increase. They will do this up to a point and level out. Again, the amount is marginal. Beyond this point you run into thermal cascade. More heat allows more current. More current means more heat. More heat allows more current.... You see where this is going. lol Generally though, when the regulator goes bad, 1 of the 4 diodes goes out and you see increased voltage (around 16) and a decrease in output current, hence no charging. There are two other possibilities. The field windings in the alternator are going bad. Same current flow principal applies here too. The other is the charge lead from the alternator has developed high resistance. Disconnect it from the alternator and measure the resistance from end to end. Realistically you should see around a half an ohm but up to 5 ohms is 'ok' depending on what manual you're reading. General consensus seems to be 3 ohms. It's not the battery. 12.3 is a normal, key off, static battery reading. Measure any car battery, and you'll get roughly 11.5-12.7 volts. They can't produce more voltage than that unless something has gone wrong internally. If a battery causes the charge reading to drop significantly, it is because it has a bad cell internally. In this case, every one I've seen like this will go dead overnight due to a high resistance internal short in the bad cell causing a slow drain. Loyale was right about the system resistance causing a voltage drop, but generally this only applies to older vehicles since the wiring wasn't quite as good a quality as current vehicles and over the years you end up with increased resistance in the terminal connections. It may be a minimal amount that by itself means nothing, but when compounded by the amount of wiring and terminals, it adds up to enough to cause a drop in voltage. Easy way to check is to start the car and disconnect the negative cable. Measure your voltage at the charge terminal on the alternator using the housing as your ground. You should see around 14 as the others have stated with everything turned off. Hook the cable back up and you may or may not see a drop. A volt or so is ok, but more than that and you'll need to start searching for the area of high resistance causing the drop. My Brat was doing the same thing your XT is doing before the alt went completely TU and I did the Maxima upgrade. After the upgrade, though, I did notice the system voltage was lower with the battery connected than without . Like a volt or so. Since I had several batteries lying around and the alternator was new, I swapped things around just to check and got the same results. It's normal as long as it's not a huge amount. The ability of the regulator to compensate for voltage drops is also somewhat dependent on the quality of the components int he regulator. Cheap components won't regulate as well so some people may see this drop and some won't, Lots of variables.

Well, that blows that trip.... Green??? I think my eyeballs are going.... lol

Hard to say. You can do a visual inspection if you remove it to see if there's any debris in it indicating the compressor may have failed. If there's no debris, there's still the question of will it work or not. Been a long while since I replaced a TXV, but if it's cheap, I would. Again, you could put it back in, charge the system, find it doesn't work and have to have the system evac'd, replace it and then recharge. I dislike working on 'unknown condition' AC systems for this reason. It can be a pain. BTW, did you test the clutch by hot wiring it to see if it engaged or is it just fragged?

The turbos are 'non serviceable', they say. I've never taken one of these apart myself, but I would imagine with the proper tools, seals could be changed. You would have to have them matched up by someplace like Kaman industrial or some such supplier.

You don't have an orifice, you have a TXV (thermal expansion valve). Yes, you should replace the receiver dryer since it contains dessicant to remove moisture from the system. If the system has no charge, then there was a leak most likely and the dessicant will be saturated from outside air being in the system. You'll need to flush the system completely to remove the AC oil as R12 oils are not compatible with 134 oils and you should replace all the o-rings at the fittings with R134 compatible ones. I've seen guys do it without and have no problems, but they say you should. Napa carries a great 'universal' 134 retrofit kit. As far as you having stock, dealer installed or AM installed AC, I couldn't tell you without seeing it. Generally, If I have an old compressor of unknown condition and the clutch is gone, I replace the whole thing if it's not gonzo expensive. It's been my experience replacing clutches on old compressors, that you end up opening a can of worms with front bearings and seals. Not too mention, since it didn't work when you got it, you could spemd money on a clutch, install it and have a bad compressor and you're out money.

Where where where where!? I need gray window cranks and most black Brats had gray interior.

Take any size wire you want, wire it to a car battery, short it directly and see what happens. I did read the link. They are talking load protection, not short circuit protection and while the two are related, they are different in terms of calculations and methods of protection. Northwet was correct. 18" is NOT and electrical consideration. It's an arbitrary number they picked. Math does lie especially when one does not take into account thermal dynamics and wire quality. And your house is wired correctly and falls under a whole separate set of rules. The breakers will trip in the event of a short on the circuit whether it is the device or the wiring. The are the first thing in the circuit and are rated for the load of the wiring which dictates the load you can put on the circuit. That's why if you run 14-2 in your house, you can only use a max breaker of 15A. Step up to 12-2 and you can use a 20A breaker. We are talking safety here for the protection of a short to ground on a high amperage circuit of a moving vehicle with vibrations and any number of places a wire can short out. Not something sitting still. Safety. Every time I'm right and I know it, I have to waste time digging up crap to appease those that think they are. Let's see, the O2 discussion comes to mind, the driveline angle discussion.... I'm not wasting more time for this. Our field engineer would love to post, but he's laughing too hard to type..... Btw, when I said bass pumping, I can blow my windows out moron, I was not referring to you, but those that wrote the 'safety rules'. Utilizing their 'guidelines' for stereo wire in competition for the definitive word on automotive wiring is like saying, "I'm going to build a skyscraper! Let's go see what the big book of building with Legos says." End of line... *

Ok, I don't know why this is still going on. You want to believe stereo competition rules for wiring accessories on your car? Go for it. They don't have a damn clue about the overall system I guarantee. Manufacturers have fuses at the front side of every circuit because it is LEGALLY mandated for safety. I don't give a rats a** if your device is already fused. If you think it's going to stop a wire from melting if it shorts out, you're DEAD WRONG. The fuse protects the device itself from internal shorts or overloads. It does nothing to protect wire coming into the device. You should fuse ANY positive circuit within 2"-3" of it's voltage source to properly protect against shorting, wire melting and possible fire. That being said.... and pay attention to this boys and girls..... When adding the extra wire from the alt to the battery which you should do for SAFETY reasons, you need to install a 100A slow blow (thank you for clarifying this GLoyale as I did not... my bad) fuse on the battery side of the circuit. Should there be a short in a battery cable, the battery itself or elsewhere, the circuit is rendered safe. PERIOD This is not speculation, hypothesis or my opinion. It is fact. I have a degree in electronics and have been doing this for over 20 years with more hands on training and continuing ed classes than I can count. I've ran more miles of wiring than anyone here and have NEVER had a wiring related failure. I work on 360v electric cars and hybrids that will KILL you if you don't follow the rules. You don't want to believe me, fine. Check out motor vehicle safety regulations. Not regulations written by some bass pumping, I can blow my windows out moron who thinks he 'knows' the physics and safety of wiring a motor vehicle. You wanna listen to that pile of misinformation, fine.... burn your car down. Not my problem, my car, or my lawsuit and prison time should something go wrong.

Properly...... Cut the flat portion of the rusted section out and weld in a new piece of somewhat thicker steel. Brace or cut and replace any other places that may have questionable integrity. Do NOT half a** this. It is a major safety point to the rear suspension.