skishop69

Huh.... 8 degrees with a properly jetted carb.... Go figure. Anywhoo, you said you first noticed it on start up so I ignored the driving part. I most certainly was not suggesting you drive without the belt on. I mean, if you don't like the car..... lol It's a common test for pinpointing accessory noises.

Saweet! Where did you have your butt-dyno calibrated? I've been meaning to get mine done. I think only 2 of my rigs still have stock exhaust so I get that. Can't do the Baja since the little lady drives it and the truck..... Well, I'm just not ready to shell out $600 for headers yet. Agreed. Gutting any CAT sucks. But unfortunately in some instances, there has to appear to be one there. Once that 25 year mark is passed... It's outta there!

Sound: On a stock system, there is no audible difference. Especially with the CAT so far upstream. Been there, done that on too many rigs to count. Performance: Again, with a very low HP engine, and built in designs for scavenging, you will notice no appreciable gain in power by gutting or removing a correctly functioning CAT. What screen? Gutted all 3 of my Brats and my XT GL-10 along with countless other vehicles and have never ran across a screen surrounding the substrate. I fail to see this clogging anything if you rod everything out. A clogging CAT CAN rattle. If the center of the substrate starts to fail and melt, the exhaust will be forced to flow around the melted section increasing heat around the casing causing it (the substrate) to burn up and separate from the casing. Not very common, but possible. The heat shield is far more likely though.

Why would you want to take them out later? I use Loctite green Sleeve Locker. They will not come out on their own. If you have to remove them for .... ???, heat them up with a torch and they will spin out. Are they loose and spinning or do the nuts seem to keep coming loose? If it's just the nuts coming loose, the threads may be pulling out. If that is the case, it's Helicoil time. +1 on the lock washer.... Always....

Sounds like the infamous governor has gone out...

Well first off, timing is way too advanced. 8 degrees IIRC. Next I would draining and refill your cooling system and make sure you get at least 50/50 in there. That's why it slushed. Too much water. Next, pull your belt off and see if the clatter goes away. I've seen old water pumps brake the impeller with frozen or near frozen coolant.

No check valve. Depending on how many times it's sat and how long it sat, the gas will turn to solid varnish and plug the fuel outlet. Easiest thing would be to pull the sender assembly out and inspect. That line should pass 120psi fairly easily with a good amount of noise. Are the lines on right? You can't draw fuel from the return side....

+1,ooo,ooo!!! lol

Removing the CAT won't do anything for your sound, and very little if anything for your performance. If you want to be on the safe side, you can take off the Y pipe, take a steel rod, run it through the end and beat the living daylights out of what's left of your CAT. Dump out the debris and done. This will prevent it from possibly plugging your exhaust. As for junkyards, none sell used CATs. Thank you EPA.....

A tablet in a car? Sorry... A cheap, Chinese tablet in a car? No, I doubt seriously it will take the abuse for long. A good tablet most likely will. Great idea though. Research tablets for longevity and sturdiness. I've had several and still like my HP Touchpad though it was discontinued right after release. The OS wasn't all that great and they stopped support, so I wiped it and loaded an Android system. Look for one that has Bluetooth, though most, if not all, do now. If you go the tablet route, you'll need to install an amp and rewire all the speakers since the table is not capable of powering anything bigger than headphones. There are a few head units available that don't have CD players that will install easily in the given space. The have USB ports, 3.5mm input jacks, RCA input jacks and Bluetooth depending on the model.

If you got the float adjusted wrong or it's stuck, then gas is going to shoot out of the bowl vent at the top of the carb.

You did say Loyale, and that may be my bad as I was focused on the GL. Duh... Still, if you bolt the tire on it shouldn't be floppy like that. I haven't seen a FWD car yet that couldn't be just rolled without the axles in. Something else isn't right if you put on the tire and it's floppy. All FWD bearings are press fit to a degree even though the axle stub does 'keep them together'.

Even though the axles hold the hub to the bearings, the fit is tight enough you can roll it straight back and straight forward with no worries. Done it before. You'll be fine.

Permatex Ultra Copper comes in a tube like other RTV's. it is designed for high heat and has copper particles in it for reinforcement. I know a number of people who use it and swear by it. Haven't ever heard of it leaking.

LCD is a locking center differential in the tranny. There would be a button in the middle of the stick you would push to engage it. The carrier bearing is the center support bearing in a 2 piece driveline. Sounds like it's time to jack it up and start prying.... lol

Huh.... That sounds like one of two things I have encountered before. 1) The insulator in your carrier bearing on the driveline is toast. You won't get a thump in first gear since you are easing off the clutch to get going. There is more shock to the driveline in second, third and fourth since you are de-clutching faster. You won't get it downshifting because the driveline is being loaded is a different direction. It sounds more like 2) The trans mounts are shot or the pitch stopper is. Since I assume your XT6 is AWD LCD, torque should be equalized between the front and rear diffs when locked and more load to the front diff when not. I have ran into situations where a noise actually originates elsewhere and transfers through to body, frame or drivetrain and sounds like it is somewhere else. I would check the things I mentioned first, and if you don't find anything, I would jack the rear end up and place ramps under the rear tires and set it on the ramps to gain some clearance to access the suspension/drivetrain while keeping it 'loaded' as if it were sitting normally. Then take a prybar to every mounting point for the diff, mustache bar, trailing arms, torsion bar tube and upper and lower strut mounts leveraging in different directions to see if anything is moving more than it should if at all.

Then you got a bad set that's been sitting on the shelf a very long time which can happen to anyone. Got 4 different rigs running them and never had a leak. Two of the rigs have had the exhaust off at least a dozen times. And not to burst your bubble, but Fel-Pro happens to be the supplier for a number of auto manufacturers just as Valvoline supplies all of Napa's oil and there are only a few factories in the world that produce anti-freeze and sell to everyone else who just slaps their name on it. Thicker is better on this style of exhaust gasket as it dissipates heat better reducing the chance of burnout and allows for better compression/crush sealing which is more forgiving for resealing. Can't dispute simple physics. Everyone has their own opinion and this is mine, but I have 10 years and 12 reseals to back it. As for you still having a leak, you have one or both of two issues. 1) Your exhaust studs are pulling out of the heads and you don't realize it. Common problem fixed by heli-coiling them and using Permatex sleeve locker (green Loctite) on the coils and studs to secure them. This allows you to increase the torque guaranteeing a seal especially if 2) Your exhaust flange on the pipe is warped. You can check them with a straight edge and depending on the amount of warpage and your willingness to work on them, can be leveled with a good flat file.

That is a hose clamp adjuster. Most likely left behind by a PO when they changed hoses and got rid of the crappy factory hose clamps. I wouldn't worry. If it really had backed itself out and fallen off, you'd be out of coolant.

I would take one to an autobody supply store and match it up if you can't get them through Subaru. That or online at www.clipsandfasteners.com or www.thecliplink.com .

First thing to check is the fuel filter. If that's good, and I suspect it is from your description of the problem, then your carb's primary circuit is plugged and someone adjusted the choke to reduce air flow to compensate for the lean condition. You'll need to adjust it so it doesn't close under acceleration. If you are not bold enough or have the tools to tear it apart, there's a quick fix I've used on a number of occasions that works most of the time. Unplug the fuel pump and clamp of the fuel supply hose at the carb. Remove the air cleaner and look into the carb. You will see a small tube sticking out from the top carb body into the middle of the barrel. This is the breather for the float bowl. With the fuel line clamped off, start the car and let it run til it dies, then try so start it a few more times to make sure there is no fuel left in the carb. Get some STP carb/injector cleaner and carefully/slowly poor it into the breather tube. When it won't take anymore, the float bowl is full. Start the car again, but only let it run for 5-10 seconds making sure to blip the throttle a couple of times then shut it off. Top off the float bowl with the cleaner and let it sit for at least 6 hours. Pour the rest of the treatment in your tank. After waiting, start it again with the fuel line still clamped of and blip the throttle til it dies and won't start again. Hook the fuel pump back up, unclamp the line and go drive. This works great as long as whatever is plugging the circuit is petroleum based as it will eat it up while soaking. If it doesn't work, it's either rebuild time, or you've got another issue.

Yes it does. It is attached to the choke flap shaft. If the choke is setting properly when cold, then someone has backed out the high idle screw on the cam. It's on the passenger side of the carb. If you move the choke flap by hand and look at that side, you'll see the cam and locate the correct screw as the regular idle screw is on that side too.

I know!!! WTH!? You never mess stuff like that up. lol I was like.... Is Miles suffering a concussion? lol I've lost track of my misread faux pas. Always nice we can rib each other and laugh at ourselves....

EA82 is too wide to fit unless you have a 4" lift. The valve covers won't clear the front frame rails in the Brat. Been there, done the mock up. Just won't clear. The driveline from the 4 Spd has to be lengthened not shortened to work with the 5spd. The 5 spd tranny is shorter because they did away with the tailshaft extension housing that was on the 4 spd.

Thanks! That first halo repair was a pain. Getting geared back up to drop in my EJ22 NA engine with the turbo added in. That's cool how well your LPG seems to work out. I always bumped the compression up to 9.5:1 or higher and reground the cam to even gain some HP. Never considered LPG on a Subie though just because I'm a power whore. lol

Not sure what the length is as my spares are buried at the bottom of my parts pile lol, but the gauge of the spring has little to due with the rating. That is accomplished through the type of steel used and the heat treating. Since the Yota had a cast iron engine block, the front end would be heavier and therefore the springs would be a little stiffer. Stiffer = more height if the donor vehicle is heavier than the recipient even if the spring length is the same. Unfortunately, this means the only way to know for sure is put them in! lol