skishop69

+1 on the rtv, but make sure it's ultra grey. It's factory sealant for a lot of manufacturers and great stuff. Also make sure everything is clean and dry. Use brake clean on a shop towel to wipe down both surfaces before application. This is not a situation where if a little is good, more is better. You don't want it squirting out inside, breaking loose when it hardens and then blocking off the oil screen. Also, tightening from the inside out doesn't apply to gaskets such as oil pan, valve cover, etc.... You tighten them in a cris-cross pattern a little at a time (in steps) until tight. This keeps even pressure on the gasket and keeps it from kinking or slipping out. Whenever possible, I try to give the ultra grey 24 hours to cure before adding oil and running it. Guaranteed seal, but it can be applied and ran right after. It's common practice at repair shops.

Not without using 10 gauge wire and control relays. The stock wiring and horn contacts cannot take that load. Something will burn out in short order.

You need to double check belt installation. One belt goes on, then you have to rotate the engine and put the other on. They are not interference motors, so it's most likely on incorrectly.

It 'might' be feasible, but without access to jets and thus the ability to re-jet it, I'm fairly certain you would run a bit lean and suffer some power loss starting around half throttle if not off the line. A lot of work to adapt it and find out it doesn't cut it.

Solex is an older company that IIRC built carbs for Volkswagen and isn't in business anymore. They were either single upgrades from stock or dual carb set-ups. I had a set on my dune buggy but that was almost 20 years ago. They worked pretty good and were easy to work on. The company was sold/merged a few times so I don't know if they're around. Couldn't tell you about parts availability or interchangeability. I can tell you the 31-30 is too small for a single carb set up. It was meant for dual carb set up.

Filters wouldn't be an idle issue. They would be a part to full throttle issue. You've probably got some crap in the bowl that is clocking the idle circuit. Quick fix you can try is to turn the mixture screw all the way in and count the number of turns til it bottoms out (stops). Then take it out completely. Blow compressed air into the hole. That might unblock the circuit. I've done it a number of times on many different carbs. If it doesn't work, you'll need to overhaul it.

Do a search for Maxima alternator upgrade. GD wrote the thread. Best thing you can do for your electrical system. Install the Nissan Maxima alt and double the output. No more slow wipers, dim headlights and slow heater blower.

You can try back flushing it first. Disconnect the hoses and use your garden hose to run water through it both directions. You should also make sure the cable to the blend (temp) door is working. Can't get a heater core!? That's BS. Both NAPA and... gawd forbid, O'Reillys both can get them.

Nope... The ground I am referring to is where the intake bolts to the head on the passenger side. It is actually on one of the intake mounting bolts. Look again. This ground is most likely causing all your 'false' codes. Once you clean it, you should be fine.

There is a ground on the passenger side of the engine where the intake bolts on. It is for the ECU and tends to corrode. Remove the bolt and ground and clean both along with the intake surface where the bolt goes through. Should get you all cleared up.

+1 Unfortunately it's possible you fried something in the ECU as well. It takes less than a second to do that. If it doesn't run after you replace the blown fusible link..... well.... bummer.

No. The oils pump has no contact with the cooling system. Sorry to pee on your parade, but it sounds like HG's.

Dual exhaust on a Brat is useless and can actually reduce power and other issues. 2" out is more than sufficient.

Also check exhaust back pressure. If the CAT is plugged, the same thing can happen.

Damn! I thought I had that backwards. My bad and thanks for the correction.

Gen 2 Brat doors are all interchangeable. Coupe and hatch doors will work directly and I think wagon doors will as well, but you have to change the glass.

Then the key in switch in the original housing is bad.

He most likely cut the key in ignition wire to attach it to his switch. Unless you reattached it, no chime.

You have a vacuum leak somewhere. Most likely in the supply hose from the engine into the cab. Look for a vacuum hose coming off the engine and passing through the firewall and into the back of the HVAC head. That's most likely your culprit. Start the car and then poke your head under the dash and list for a vacuum leak (hiss). If you don't hear it, start inspecting the line. I suppose it could also be the control head, but doubtful.

Turbo light only comes on when it hits boost. Only way to tell is with a boost gauge. The 4wd light only comes on when you push the button for 4wd and it engages. No clue about the blinking power light.

Uhhhhh.... See last post... lol The 'sealant' is not actually a urethane or silicone. It's a softer type of butyl. The glass is held by a channel in the rubber gasket. Or you can cut the rubber gasket.

Huh.... For some reason it's didn't post my post at 7 this morning. Try again.... Sounds like either you broke the synchro, the actual gear or stripped the splines on the shaft. Any of these end in a do NOT drive scenario. If you're driving and one of the pieces jumps up into the gears, it's either going to grenade or lock up and destroy more parts. As Ivan said, drain the fluid and look for shiny lube or bits and pieces.

I may be wrong on this, but Only the hatches, Brat and coupe used the same windshield and it is held in with a rubber gasket. Pull the inner chrome molding out of the gasket you can try to save the gasket if it's still soft by slowly working it out from the inside to the outside. New ones are still available on Evil Bay. Talk to a glass shop about installing it. There is a special tacky 'sealant' they use to put inside the inner trough of the gasket and you'll want that or it will leak.

There is no valve on the Brat. Your air mix door is most likely not moving. You need to check the cable from the control to the door and make sure it is attached and the door is moving. The Brat also has no vacuum controls for the heat, so don't be looking there.

Pressingonward: Yes, some end play is normal. I could find the exact specs if you needed them, but you would also need a dial indicator to correctly measure it. The one I have out in the shop has about 3/32"-1/8" up/down play and about 1/8" in/out. This tranny had no problems. Duke8988: I haven't heard of any common gear problems with the the 5MT. The 4MT had 3rd gear issues which is why I finally did the 5spd swap on my Brat. Gloyale would probably know more if there were. What do you mean by 2nd gear went out? Gloyale: I was hoping you'd expand more on what issues you see shifting wise when those bearings go out.