skishop69

Well!? Find anything? lol I'm curious now.....

Agreed on the seals though I didn't mention them as I consider seals a 'normal' replacement item when I open up a high mileage box. If those bearings were going, I would think you would have fore and aft play in the shaft and shifting in all gears would be compromised if the play were large enough. Or, you would have play fore OR aft and then depending on which way, you would have problems with 1,3 & 5 or 2 & 4. I don't have a lot of experience with the 5MT, but I can tell you that in all the rebuilds of other manuals I've done, whether they were AWD, FWD, RWD or 4WD, individual gear grinding is always (almost...) a blocking ring itself or in combo with a synchro. I'm not discounting what you are saying, I'm just thinking out loud. Also, with fore or aft play, you usually have a rattle due to the shaft walking back and forth. It's easy to check once it's open though. Based on what you've see, what I've seen and what he's got, he's not going to know until he tears it down and looks. The bearings will be easy to check and obvious if bad. The blocking rings should have little grooves inside them running the inner circumference of the ring. You'll have to compare all of the blocking rings to see if the grooves are the same depth. Ones that are shallower are worn and not applying enough pressure to the beveled face of the synchro to slow the gear down enough to allow the synchro to mesh and shift properly. On the note of I75ea.... Sounds like the input shaft or front main shaft bearing is going bad. Put it in 4th or 5th, engine running with the clutch in and see it the noise goes away. I believe (not 100%) that 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio and locks the input shaft and main shaft together. It is/does with every other trans I've worked on. If the noise is not present in 4th, engine running and not moving but is doing the same with any other gear, it's the input shaft bearing. Of course, now thinking back I believe I'm wrong in that it's 4th gear specific for these trannys. Any gear will lock the input shaft and main shaft together because the aren't in line (front to back) with each other. The input shaft is on top, and the main shaft (or pinion shaft in the case of Subies) is under it. In this case, if it doesn't rattle in gear, clutch in and does rattle out of gear clutch in or out, then it would be the input shaft bearings Gloyale mentioned. Oy... My brainpan is starting to hurt. lol

If it's just 1st and 3rd, it's most likely the blocking rings. If were the clutch or fork, it would be all gears. If it's not grinding horribly, I would just order the blocking rings and put them in. if it is, you may have damaged the synchros as well. Chances of a bad bearing are slim to none unless you run it out of fluid.

You're confusing yourself. The driveline goes from the tranny to the rear differential.

If the tarnny is jacked, it's going to be binding and dragging as you already know, it's tough to turn your fromt wheels. This is going to cause the engine to work harder screwing up your mileage.

Egads! You CANNOT pull the driveline without sealing the output saft. Check your fluid level on the tranny. Dipstick for it is on the passenger side. If it is stuck in 4wd then all you have to do is go down on the side of the tranny where the linkage is and pop it out of 4wd then you can address that problem. Get the drive line back in before topping the fluid. If it was making noise before, it's because there is little to no fluid in the tranny. Jack it up, get under it and see if the output shaft has been sealed. Sounds like the reason it's stuck in 4wd is because the previous owner ran the tranny low and quite possibly jacked it up but good. If this is the case, and it were me, I'd put the driveline back in, drain whatever fluid is left and top it with 10w/30 motor oil. Drive it 10-15 miles, drain that and refill with synthetic 75w/90 WITHOUT friction modifiers. IE: 75w/90 that is not for limited slip diffs. The friction modifiers will drastically shorten the life of the blocking rings in the tranny. Do this before you spend money on wheel bearings. If I'm wrong, great. If I'm right, you MIGHT get back functionality of the 4wd and quiet the tranny down. If you can't and it doesn't and I was right about the fluid, it's junk.

Agreed, and that's where I was confused on both accounts. The whole thing is puzzling. Check the fluid in the tranny nonetheless for being low, burnt or shiny metal fun. lol

Generally, they are round with four wires, but I had one that looked like that in a parts box around here somewhere.... lol

Maybe I'm missing something here or everyone else has over looked this... You said he removed the drive line. Did you mean disconnected it? You can't just pull the driveline and drive around willy nilly unless you have somehow plugged the rear output on the trans. If you don't plug it, you will loose a minimum of 3/4 of your gear lube out the back. Since I have first hand experience on what happens when you run one of these trannies low... *cough cough, stupid guy not monitoring fluid levels, cough cough* Lack of lube will cause the tranny to run hotter than normal. This increase in heat causes expansion of components reducing clearances in bearings and gears. The lack of lubrication and reduced clearances causes friction and more heat.... Cascading effect depending on the tranny. My point being is that the front diff carrier/case bearings are usually the first to suffer from this and will drag and whine. The noise will radiate through the axles and sound like it is a wheel bearing issue. Just another thought. So, did he plug the rear ouput? If not, I would question the skill of your 'mechanically inclined' friend. lol

It is due to a combination of brake dust in the drums as well as the drum and shoes being glazed. The humidity and cold make it worse. Pull the drums and scuff the braking surface with a scotch brite pad and do the same to the face of the shoes. Hose it all down with brake clean and put it back together. good to go....

They soldered it to shielded coax!? Huh? Well, unless it grounded through the housing, not enough wires for a relay but it still could be. Maybe the had the fuel pump jury-rigged at some point. The other thing that comes to mind is an RF suppressor/filter. Why they would tap a power feed off of it to a switch is a bit perplexing unless they had an older FM modulated CD changer in the car. The switch would have had filtered B+ to turn on the modulator which in turn turns on the changer. The coax would have been the power back to the changer and maybe their thought was using the shielded coax would reduce any RF after the filter. Good idea, but poorly applied as soldering to the shielding in the coax renders it useless. The shielding should have been grounded to the chassis to bleed off the RF. I'm leaning towards this idea as the box looks similar to the older, generic RF filters. For those who are not quite sure what I'm referring to.... Ever install audio equiptment in a car and get that annoying 'audio tachometer' (whine) from the speakers? That is RF (radio frequency) intereference. It bleeds through the power wires to the stereo from either the alt or coil. The RF filter 'cleans' the power signal up so you don't get the whine.

If I weren't so damn busy, I'd bring my rechargeable recipro saw up and help you. You get the main sections with it and then use the hook knife or wire for the wicked turns. It's a little trickier as you have to use a very long metal cutting blade and keep the saw and foot away from the glass. I checked my stash and apparently I now only have 2 rear glasses. Unfortunately, that only covers my two XT's.

Correct. Same glass on all, nobody gottie! It sucks, but it's the reality of owning an oddbal. I did price out a custom job once, but $2K was a little more than I care to splurge for.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm sticking with Subaru and I found out she can't afford the insurance since the deadbeat isn't coughing up. I actually work for Chevy so it's ironic you would offer up a Lumina. lol

Yes, i know the hiway and Evans Creek all too well as I spent a lot of time there in my dirtbike and Jeeping days. Major bummer dude... Major.... Ironically, I just saw a hatchy today in a parking lot and thought of you.

There is no one left who makes rear glass for an XT. Unless you find a wrecked/junked one and can pull it yourself or find someone who will, you're screwed. Sorry to say it that way, but that's why I have 3 spares for the rear. I can tell you removing it unscathed is a task due to the body and glass shape. It is time consuming and you can't pry on it. You have to cut it clean. If you're in a yard using a windhield knife, it's going to take some time. If you are at your own place, the best tool is one of those multi-cut tools that has the different attachments and operates off a random orbital/vibration platform. I have found these to be the best/fastest way to remove the glass, changing blades where necessary and getting the urethane completely cut before trying to remove it.

As much as I am for saving our loved ones, that one will be hard as you would pretty much have to lop it in half if you want it bad enough. I am also very fond of hatches due to their twin relation of the Brat. If I may..... WTF happened!? lol

It's not a turbo oiling problem. It's a poor cooling jacket design inside the engine case that makes it prone to overheating if ANY part of the cooling system fails or you drive it like you stole it. Stay on top of cooling system maintenance, make sure you do HG's (Felpro) before you install it and you 'shouldn't' have any issues. If you're transplanting anyways, spend the extra time and money on the EJ swap especially if you're going to pound on it.

Depeneds on where the damage is on your hatch and how sever, I'd need to see some pics. To do this properly, you're going to need a mig welder, good skills and patience. NO, you can't use bolts, pop rivets, duct tape or bubble gum. You're also going to have to build a jig to support the hatch on with locating points for the section you're replacing. Get me some pics and PM me if you'd like. It can be done, but is tedious and must be done correctly.

You won't find a kit. Parts are direct from Subaru only on the manuals. I doubt the whole thing needs overhauling. What/which gears give you problems? If it's hard going in all gears and lurching, that's not a tranny issue, it's a clutch or throw out fork issue.

Those pieces are still avaiable from Subaru. At least they were about a year ago when I ordered mine. Weren't may left IIRC. Wouldn't be a bad idea though. They break easily even when new. The plastic composition wasn't that good back then.

Yep, which made more sense knowing there were 2 different types of switching. I was looking at the late schematics scratching my head going..... This says 4 wires down to 3 and I only gots 2! lol I have seen other manufaturers schematics that will actually show a case ground as a ground circuit with a wire and assumed that's what was done here. We all know what happens when you assume! lol ( ! )

"Each switch is a path that completes when closed to light. 12v in, 12v out when switch on. Not a ground out setup. Sounds like you need to work on identifying which type you have and revise your wiring plans." I will have to look into that because all the EA82 schematics I came across show the power being on the bulb side and the switch being the ground. Thanks for pointing out the difference in EA82 switching. I had no idea they had different set ups for specific years. This information tells me I have an 85-87 and will have to mount a micro switch to the lo linkage at the back of the tranny to get my lo light. Thanks! It's not a cable issue, it's a pedal throw issue. It probably wouldn't cause a problem depending on how much you drive and you're driving style. This is a 70-80 mile per day driver in stop and go on the freeway and I'm a fairly aggressive driver so I just don't wat to take any chances. I still need to look into the pedals to see if there actually is a difference or if there is something else not quite right. I really wanted to do the one piece driveline, but the missus has been out of work for a year and money is tight. The only reason I finally got around to the swap after sitting on the parts for over 2 years was that 3 gear on the EA81 finally started popping out on it's own. Edit: So I just went back to the schematics for the EA81, the early EA82 and the late EA82. The are all ground switched, not voltage switched. I do have the early style so I was wrong about nthe wiring in my previous post. Using the wiring/switch on the early tranny results in the tranny 4wd switch illuminating the lo light at the same time as the 4wd switch in the console lights the 4wd light. Hence the confusion.

Ther are no tailgate trim pieces left, and they were made of tin, not plastic. How would they warp? I'm a bit confused on that one...

Yep. Toyota...