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skishop69

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Everything posted by skishop69

  1. skishop69
    If it is 84 and stock, the CAT is part of the Y pipe. Two pipes coming in the front in a V configuration and one pipe coming out the rear of the 'bulge' (CAT). A replacement Y pipe only is just that. Three pipes in a Y configuration, no bulge.
  2. skishop69
    Correct. I removed the pan, put an bead around it about an 1/8" thick. I put the pan back on finger tight, gave it 24 hours to cure and then tightened it with the ratchet. No gasket at all.
  3. skishop69
    Yep. An inch or so is all you need IIRC. I used ultra grey on my pan something like 10 years ago. still dry.
  4. skishop69
    Yes indeed it can. Get her resealed before it ruins the new clutch.
  5. skishop69
    Yeah, seems a little hinky to me as well. I got all my EJ swap parts For FREE! I bought a 92 something or other NA EJ for $300 that got canned hard in the front end.pulled the engine and did the harness. Sold the trans and the rear diff and got my money back. Took the hulk to the local Subie yard (now gone ) and traded it for a low mileage, solid turbo, downpipe and plumbing. Ok, I did spend $75 on a Subaru AWIC. Now if I can just get the rest of the sh!t done I have around here and the full resto I'm doing to a 68 Mustang, I might actually get to put it in! (years later, Ugh...)
  6. skishop69
    I may not be remembering this correctly, but the Weber does not have, nor does it require a return line from the carb. Get rid of the jury rigged return line all together. It doesn't need it.
  7. skishop69
    I was wrong in my statement. I got to pondering it on my way to work because of the way you guys stated things. I got stuck on terminology. We in the states refer to it as motor oil, not mineral oil. Mineral oil has a different connotation in the states. The groups 3 & 5 I was referring to are motor oil. I apologize for my error. I really have to watch those early morning posts until I've had more coffee. Idiot.
  8. skishop69
    I've never seen any good results from running mineral oil in automotive applications. I'm guessing what you have there is a group 3 or group 5 type mineral oil that has similar properties to synthetic oil, but still not quite as good. I'm referring to groups 1 and 2 which are not as well refined. Granted it's been a while since I changed my own oil (It's actually cheaper for me to let the lube monkeys at our dealership change it lol) But i don't seem to recall hardly any options for mineral oils here in the states. That may be do to the fact we have more oil for refining and ease of synthetic production. I was a bit hasty in my statement given you guys are using a better grade of mineral oil than what we typically see here.
  9. skishop69
    Just to be clear, there was no 'factory' winch. They were upfitted by the dealer using a winch from an aftermarket company licensed by Subaru. Still very cool and rare.
  10. skishop69
    Never, never, never, did I mention never? Use mineral oil in an automotive application.Doesn't hold up to shearing forces and doesn't maintain the set viscosity it is rated at when place under high heat and shearing forces. Glad you got it out before the gearbox grenaded and that the new oil has brought it back.
  11. skishop69
    I did know it was the upper trim package, but did not know it didn't mean the turbo was included in that package. Stash that away for future reference. Thanks! I've also never seen or heard of a 4 door RX. Did they make one?
  12. skishop69
    Yes, GL10. RX was a coupe and if it was an RX, RX would be plastered all over it. lol
  13. skishop69
    Using MSD components will net you NO gain on an EA81 as far as power is concerned. They also won't help with a future EJ swap. To do the swap, you need the engine, wiring harness and ECU to make it run. Without it, it won't and no amount of MSD add-ons will make it run. You also really won't gain anything using them on a stock EJ platform either. The whole purpose of upping your ignition voltage is to overcome flame out at the plug caused by high compression with a lot of fuel. EA & EJ platforms don't run anywhere near this in stock form. Now, I'm sure someone will say, yeah, but you can use it for timing control. True you can, but the EA81 has no knock control at all, so bumping the timing leads to melted pistons. On the EJ platform, it has knock control, so any advance you try to add will be pulled back by the ECU to prevent spark knock. So again, really no gain for a stock engine.
  14. skishop69
    Swapping the jets would result in similar issues to what you're having. Smaller number main and air bleed jets go in the primary circuit, larger number in the secondary. Only a few things can cause the AC pump to trickle. Worn pump, but you replaced it. No check ball in the bottom of the well, or the wrong size ball and an obstructed passage. this could be something physically lodged in the passage or the gasket is wrong or cut wrong.
  15. skishop69
    Any of them have grey interior? Looking for window cranks in particular. Engines? EA81 I assume...
  16. skishop69
    It's not a vacuum leak and you have to have all the vacuum lines hooked up for it to run right. I've rebuilt a lot of these Hitachi's, and I've never had one with a flat spot or a vacuum leak that caused this kind of problem. Some of the lines are temp and orifice controlled air bleed circuits for idle and bottom end. If you put them in the wrong place or left them off, you won't get the proper air bleed for the idle and off idle circuits. Also, it's possible to get the jets swapped as well and that will screw you as well. +1 for Dave. The solenoid has to be hooked up and functioning or it will not idle and have a problem on the bottom end.
  17. skishop69
    That's a hell of a price. Cheap for just the pipes! One little thing.... They seem to be missing the flange on the drivers side piece. It shows it as flared. That ain't gonna work. lol Hopefully it's wrong. Let us know when it shows. If it is flanged, that's one helluva cheap cat delete kit!
  18. skishop69
    It has stress cracked, bolts alone will not do the job. If you can cut a piece of flt steel to fit in there and drill holes to use 4 bolts at least to hold it together, that might work. Better fix would be to weld the crack, grind it smooth and weld a smaller piece of plate over the crack.
  19. skishop69
    Freddo, he said struts, not shocks. If you hear them topping out, it's possible there's just too much gas pressure and what you're hearing is the internals of the strut slamming into the top of the tube when they go to full extension. I've only replace a few Subie struts over the years for leaking and never had that problem, but I don't use Gabriel. they're pretty much bottom of the line.
  20. skishop69
    The full post for this is in vehicles for sale, but I wanted to put a note here for more traffic. Just trying to help my daughter and her ex get this thing gone ASAP before the landlord has an aneurysm. I will update both posts when it's gone. Thanks.
  21. skishop69
    Post some pics? What color is the interior? Dibs on it depending on color. Too bad you're so far away. I could fix it.... depending on how bad it is.
  22. skishop69
    Based on your numbers and my experience with those gauges, the volt gauge has gone bad. The one in one of my Brat's did the same thing. There are a few companies out there that can rebuild gauges but it generally isn't cheap.
  23. skishop69
    I've replaced many radiators in multiple vehicles over the years for this issue. Running around town, less airflow. Like you said, there are exceptions. You need to have fans running if you're idling or it will overheat if it sits. If coolant got all the way down to the muffler, there would still be smoke. I've had a few cars that too almost 30 minutes of 2-3k revving to clear out.
  24. skishop69
    You need two fans if you're going to be racing it. One won't cut it for long on an EA82.
  25. skishop69
    That intercooler is too big and it's going to cause lag in the boost. I personally wouldn't add it since you are running a race, That being said, if you're willing to keep it at 4000-6000 rpm the whole time, it should work ok. Also, if it has the mechanical fan, I would ditch it and grab another electric fan off another Subie and hard wire it on a switch running all the time the engine is. Put it next to the one that's already there.
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