skishop69

If it's like the majority of boosters, it's not a stud. It's a bolt with a splined shoulder that is pressed in from the inside during assembly and then staked as well. There isn't enough material there to drill and tap. The new stud will tear out. Likewise for the JB approach. Your two ideas are tantamount to suicide. This is a huge safety issue. WHEN either idea fails, you will have reduced (if any) braking, most likely resulting in an accident. The only way I can stress how bad an idea either is, is by being rude, which I won't. Go to a PnP and get one or have someone here send you one.

So the control arm hole you drilled looks like about 1/2" out? Is that correct? I ask because I've been entertaining the idea of lengthening my lower control arms between the bushing and the lower brace at the mid section and then sleeving them as well. Since I weld on a regular basis and have a boat trailer I built hauling a 4200lb Mirage (for the last 15 years with no issues), I'm not worried about anything breaking.

They're good, but not as good as time serts. GM looked at them, but they failed the tensile/stretch test.

Time serts are the spoob! We use them on Northstars because the head bolts always pull the threads out of the blocks. I wouldn't hesitate to use them, but helicoils on a head.... not so much. Most installers don't get the hole straight and/or use cheap bits that end up having the hole a little too big reducing surface contact and the biggest thing.... very few people use Permatex Sleeve Locker to secure them. I suppose on a Subie block done correctly, prolly not so much an issue.

Incorrect or bent release fork. Also make sure you installed the throw out bearing the right way. Some can be installed in the wrong position which places them too far back on the release fork.

Once the rust has penetrated into the cylinder wall material, and it has as indicated by the rust 'bubbling up', the case halves are junk. If you do not have them properly bored out, you will have oil burning (previously mentioned), accelerated ring wear and compression issues. Yes, you could clean it up to a degree and use it if you ABSOLUTELY had to, but it's going to cause problems.

Pulling the stick won't help since it's not a top loader tranny. If you can get it out of gear running by trying different shifts in 2wd & 4wd then you've got something bound up or broken internally. You'd have to pull it and split it open. If you're going to do that, may as well just do the swap.

3M moulding adhesive.

+1 on the CV. Wouldn't think it would be the upper strut mount or a wheel bearing as they would pretty much create issues all the time as their geometry does not change as the car raises up. A few things that do that you might check: Lower control arm bushing and ball joint as well as play on the inner and outter tie rods. And from someone who has owned one for around 10 years now.... DON"T be driving it around in the full raised position just because. That is a temporary setting for deep snow or , believe it or not, off road ground clearance. That's why there is a safety feature that disables it at and above 55mph. It does put extra strain on the drive train components. Not much, but no sense wearing things out faster.

Zukiru is correct and GD and I have discussed this. All of the EA82's I've done, I've used the Fel Pro gaskets and added 5lbs to the end torque spec. Never had a leak or failure.

Anyone can put genuine in their ad if the want. If it doesn't come from Subaru, I don't believe it's genuine. Price seems decent enough. You can heat the bearing up and hit it with a hammer. Should pop off. If the axle was clicking, I'd replace it now and save the time of removing the bearing and the time tearing it down again when the axle fails.

You are correct. It just only does it in max AC mode. As for the rear wheel bearings.... I'll pass. lol Been lucky, (knock on wood) none of mine have needed them.

It's all good. I was a little cranky due to a transmission job on a Blazer yesterday. What I was pointing out is that the Brat controls are a little different for non AC. The Gen2 Brat, Hatch and Coupe all have the same controls, and I think (correct me if I'm wrong here) the Wagon has the push button. The Chilton's does not differentiate this. I have one of those and have found several discrepancies. Even All Data has omissions and they paid Subaru to copy the FSM. When I had the chance to purchase the FSM for my Brats and XT's, I did. Almost every GL Brat I've come across was either AC ready or had AC. Very few had neither. On the off chance someone removed the actuator from my non AC rig, then I would be wrong. That being said, if someone has a non AC/AC ready Gen2, check and let me know. I just know mine doesn't have it, and I don't recall seeing it in the few I've come across at PnP.

Ok. Here we go again.... It is for max AC recirculation. It changes the door in the heater box from outside to inside air so you can keep cooling the same air in the cabin and not waste 'energy' trying to cool incoming air. It has NOTHING to do with defrost. Look at the pics below. This is an HVAC panel out of a Brat . The vacuum switch is attached to the plate and activated by the mode lever. The first pic is defrost. The lever is nowhere near the switch. Second pic, lever full left, is max AC. The FSM vacuum diagram shows the routing, switch, actuator and door and even labels it inside and outside air. Addition: Gen2 BRAT mode controls are lever actuated, NOT vacuum. It's not a debate, it's a fact.

We're talking gen 2 here not 1st gen. You have an 'AC ready' Brat. That means that AC could have been added at the dealer if the customer decided the wanted it. I checked my 3 Brats, and my 2 AC Brats have it, the non does not. Also, no push buttons for HVAC on Brats. None the less, look for a vacuum line on the passenger side going through the firewall and if you have it, pull the kick panel.

Only has the vacuum actuator if it has AC. I've got three, gutted 2 others at the PnP and don't remember having seen the actuator on non-AC Brats. It's for the recirculation door for max AC. You're heater controls would have to be in the max AC position for it to be getting vacuum so either they have failed or the incoming vacuum line could have a hole. Look for any vacuum lines coming through the firewall from the engine. If you see one, then pull the kick panel and check. Easy fix.

I would venture to say you have a synchro problem if it only occurs during the shift and is not constant in 5th gear. Might also be the blocking ring. The only way to know is to tear down and inspect. If it'f that audible, you're going to see damage to some part around the 5th gear set when you look. Depending on what it is, it could go for years or take out bearings or other blocking rings.

Ok... Fel Pro #MS 91075. 3" stud to stud and 2" hole. Again, thicker with a better sealing ring. "Getting the 'correct' cheesy rump roast exhaust gaskets: $12 + 6 pack + broken knuckle + stripped stud = exhaust leak" "Being friends with the NAPA store owner and getting the run of the place: = Priceless

I've been meaning to post the Fel Pro numbers for exhaust gaskets I found that are better than the ones called for. They are thicker and have a heavier sealing ring. When I get home, I'll post the number. Haven't had one fail yet and they work great if your header is warped.

Get yourself some MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone),a cotton rag and some decent rubber gloves. Dampen the rag with MEK and put one application on the inside and outside of the seal. Wait 15 minutes and check pliability. MEK is the reactant agent for fiberglass resin and has amazing properties for softening rubber. If it's still hard, repeat until it softens up. Not too soft or it will tear. Works like a charm.

Being an 88, you should be at the 25 year mark and should no longer require emissions in Washington. Check to be sure. If you don't have to have emissions, don't spend the money. Hollow out your CAT.

DO NOT grind out the yokes! the caps will not fit right and you will create a balance issue. It's not NAPA's fault, it's the monkey behind the counter. I use them for almost everything and almost never have issues.

In order for the O2 to read anything other than base line O2 (.495 volts) it has to be heated to a high temp and then it starts creating a voltage based on the O2 in the exhaust stream. You sure ain't heating it with a hairdryer.... And now I know why GD gets the way he does in discussions like this. No offense intended Rick. lol The guys in the shop and our area state emissions rep are really getting a good laugh out of this post, so I'm just going to let it ride.....

It can be purchased at your local Napa or online. Add it right before you top off your tank and run it down. "That stuff will suck the paint right off your house and give your family a permanent orange afro!" - Dan Akroyd

When all you have is an 'indirect' means of measuring as you call it, that is what you are stuck using. Measuring O2 in the exhaust stream to correlate AFR is not indirect. Inaccurate to a degree, yes. At the time, it's all the engineers had to work with. Unless they're wrong too.... Hence the development of wide band O2.