skishop69

Oh, and I apologize for the unintentional hijacking of the thread and subsequent left turn it's taken.

http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/understanding_oxygen_sensors.asp Pay particular attention to the How It Works section, paragraph 3. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf Pages 3&4 (the whole article is good) http://www.ztechz.net/id12.html This one has a great graph http://www.12v.org/engine/index.php?section=hw&sm=o2 Very good all around info I could have been more clear in stating the Lambda (or wideband) O2 sensor measures actual AFR. As for intake design information, if you're really that interested, the info is out there. Other than that, I apparently need to tell all my instructors and my friend with a Masters in internal engine combustion design who works for Rausch racing that they have been giving me bad information.

The key to my quote is 'under low vacuum'. As in vacuum (airflow) inside the intake in response to throttle opening. At cruising speeds' ie: 2k and up, the puddling effect then does one of two things depending on the intake design. It either atomizes poorly, or turns into a micro-stream and enters the combustion chamber. This, in fact, causes the O2 sensor to see it as rich since the fuel does not completely combust and leaves very little O2 behind and the ECU will trim the mixture leaner. And the O2 DOES measure AFR but based on the O2 concentration left after combustion. In perfect combustion of s 14.7:1 mixture, there is a specific amount of O2 left based on the volume of the engine, the volume of the air in the combustion chamber and the amount of fuel injected. The ECU has a predetermined 'map' that knows what this amount is under many different operating conditions. If the O2 goes over or falls blow the map value, which is an AFR of 14.7:1, then the ECU adjusts accordingly. Standard 3&4 wire O2 sensors are no where near as accurate or sensitive as Lambda O2 sensors, but that is what they do in a round about way. Not trying to start a pissing contest, but I've been a licensed emissions tech for 10 years, built custom intakes, and have done fuel mapping for custom injection systems, so I do have some insight here. The point being, cleaning injectors has little to no effect on mileage in the majority of vehicles on the road. There are of course, always exceptions.

Cleaning injectors will NOT increase your gas mileage unless the deposits are holding the pintle open and even then, only very little. Possible but very unlikely. Restricted injectors have little to no effect on mileage. The ECU uses MAF or MAP inputs and throttle position to determine injector pulse width(PW) thus controlling the fuel flow out of the nozzle. This fuel ratio is crossed checked by comparing the O2 readings against a predetermined table stored in the ECU. If they do not match, the ECU either increases or decreases the PW so they match. This is called fuel trim (FT). An increase in PW to a restricted injector only allows the proper amount of fuel to flow to maintain the optimal 14.7:1 AFR. Now, dirty injectors will affect power, acceleration and idle if the spray pattern is poor because this results in improper atomization under low vacuum which causes fuel puddling in the intake. Or if the injector tip is so restricted that increasing PW still won't allow the correct amount of fuel to flow causing a lean condition. Cleaning injectors will help these problems as long as the underlying cause does NOT lie with the o-ring. As for cleaners. The top 2 for immediate (1 tank or less) results are Seafoam & BG44K. Next is Techron and then Lucas or STP for general 'maintenance'. From what I've personally witnessed of these cleaners, BG44K is hands down the best whole fuel system and combustion chamber cleaner. It will clean lines, filters, injectors, valves, runners and piston tops. I know this for a fact as I've had a few engines apart before and after running it through the system. Down side is it's expensive as hell. Seafoam is a great cleaner and my first recommendation because of what you're getting for the price you're paying. I use it myself unless the problem is severe and there is over 100k on a questionably service engine then it gets the 44K.

Here's the link. Didn't work when I searched it either.... http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9975

I don't remember ever having a problem, but the last time I broke one, I went to PnP and grabbed andEA82 pedal and cable. Of course we were wheeling in the middle of nowhere when it happened and a local yard was my only option. lol

There is no replacement and you are correct in that finding one in tact is going to be difficult. Blame that on the engineer who placed a trough under the front drain tubes and hinge pockets. I have fabricated and repaired sections of the halo and did an extensive write up on it with pictures on the subaruxt.com site. Search sunroof repair 101. As far as removal... You're in for a fair amount of work. The write up covers it A to Z.

Based on the picture you have posted, I would have to concede I was wrong. Damn mis-catalogged parts. The 4 lug axle would be for a floating hub, tapered bearing set up and the 5 lug would be for a floating or captured hub, caged roller bearing. I am certain my GL10 has the tapered bearings. I think I'm going to go find the guy who wrote and screwed up the original interchange catalog... :flame-thrower:

I know that... I'm not getting pissy or even offended. I just can't see three manufacturers having it wrong and having had this car for over 10 years now I know there are many odd things about it. I was going to check with my buddy at subaru and have him check the part numbers. There is no 'listing' for the XT GL10, but there is a 'window' for production dates and that's where the problem lies. The GL10 is in that 'window' and if you get someone who doesn't know what they're doing, you get the wrong parts for it. Most places that are aftermarket don't even know about it. I wish I had pulled the axles from my 6 before I sold it. When I get to the shop tomorrow, I'll give him a call. I only debate things I am certain about, and will concede when I'm wrong. "It takes a big man to admit when he's wrong. I am NOT a big man!" - Fletch

Well, it is what it is. As previously stated, has been done several times and mdcc found his that way. Ever own and 87.5 XT GL10? Then don't be so sure... You're welcome to stop by anytime and look. No more from this end.

Dude, it's like 15 minutes to lower the tank to plug it in. Put a 2x4 on a jack and put it under the tank. remove the bolts only, not the lines. Slowly lower it until you have enough room to reach in and plug it in. Reassemble. Hella faster than a rewire.

Most likely bearings. Drive about 25mph on a smooth road that has no traffic. Slowly swerve back and forth and listen for a change in either the volume or the pitch of the growl. If it increases/changes when swerving right, it's the left bearing. Swerving left, it's the right. You only need to do the bearings on the side making the noise. I would go anywhere but Schlabby. Even if they manage to repair it correctly, they'll do it with cheap sh*t and then tell you the found 5 other 'critical' things wrong with your car. Jmtc....

The 87.5 is a different creature. I have replaced axles several times and the XT6 MT axles fit. Sorry, but you can't argue with reality. 2 different manufacturers totaling 5 axles so it's not a 'mix-up'. All but one under warranty and my driving doesn't help their life span. lol Any word on your headlight issue?

Previous suggestion of a hose clamp on a shop rag to hold the strut shaft then slowly jack up the control arm to get it in place. Be very careful the spring doesn't pop out. Wrap a towel around it and keep your face out of there! If you still have the compressor, then follow Tom's advice and take the whole thing out. Safest, correct way to do it.

Easiest thing to do so you don't break things is take a hair dryer to the back side of the belt housing to heat it up. Take a screw driver and pry off to one side. This will pop the captured nuts through without breaking the housing. To install, get longer bolts with washers on both sides and nylock nuts. Most guys here leave the covers off and haven't seemed to have any issues. I always put them back.

If the interior is gray, dibs on the window cranks! Can't find the damn things anywhere! Lol

Sounds like a bad MAF. Was probably going or toast before you cleaned it. Remember what I said before. They can't be cleaned while running or keyed on. They have to be done cold. They're touchy little critters and most people don't understand their operation. Current is passed through the elements causing them to heat up. As they heat and cool, their resistance changes and thus the voltage the ECU sees. The amount of air flowing across them creates the cooling and that's how the ECU knows the air flow. Spraying them while hot causes an immediate quenching effect. Quenching any metal while hot causes it to become harder and more brittle. The smaller the piece, the greater the effect. This also effects it's resistance to the point where it is no longer within range. It can also cause it to develop a hairline fracture you can't see and now the circuit is open. Older systems like this don't have a 'back up' map programmed into the ECU to run on if the the MAF fails, so it can't run not knowing the airflow. No way for it to determine fueling.

I just finished HGs on an 88 XT that I got for my daughter just about 4 years ago. Unfortunately, she decided to hang out with the wrong crowd and spent a lot of time grounded and 'lost' her chance to get the car. That lasted about a year and a half and then she straightened up, but then it was an issue of money and time. Fast forward.... She got a job and came up with the money to fix it (trying to teach her financial responsibility), and she's never driven it. Why did I say I saved it again? I'm glad I asked. Around 7 years ago, a gal I was dating needed a car and didn't have a lot of money. I did some poking around since she liked my 87.5. Found one in Tacoma that belonged to a board member. He was going to part it. Body and interior wise, it was in pretty good condition. Mechanically, not so much, but the seller was straight forward about the issues. I don't think there was a seal or gasket on the engine that wasn't leaking something except the PS. One axle was shot, the other had the boot shredded. Brakes were about gone and tires were fair. She paid him $300 and I drove it home. Pulled the engine, resealed it, new belts, tensioners, water pump t-stat, cap rotor, plugs, wires, brakes on all 4 corners, 2 front shafts and a new clutch. All for another $300. At the time, she couldn't afford the HGs which were weeping externally, so I told her they would go eventually. 3 years later after we stopped seeing each other, they went. Right after she put on $500 worth of Schwabby skins. Now she had money for a newer car and calls me up asking if I want to buy it. Sure! She says, $300. SOLD! lol Not like I didn't know the history. Anywhoo, it's back to running like a top, no leaks, 1/4 gauge on temp ( I put the mechanical fan back on as she has issues watching gauges), 30 psi oil pressure at idle and not a hint of TOD. She's down it the shop cleaning it now and it should be back on the road in a couple of weeks.

EA82 has a longer 'snout' to make up for the timing belt spacing. EA81& EA82 water pumps are not interchangeable to my knowledge.

I believe he's referring to the sea/ o-ring between the cam tower and the head, and yes, you have to pull the cam tower. As they get older, they get rock hard and leak internally which contributes to the TOD problem. It's minor, but still...

Been down the axle shaft road before. Ask for shafts for an 88 XT6. They will be correct.

If it won't click back to low beam, then the multi function (turn signal) switch is bad and needs to be replaced. I have the same car. Pulling back should lock it to low beam and it should pull back and release for flash to pass. Pushing if forward puts on the hi beams.

I hate to be an a**, but again... MAF's are NOT self cleaning! They will not burn off any petroleum product and will barely burn off anything else. You MUST use a MAF cleaner and do it cold and with the key off or you can damage it. That being said.... I assume you changed the FF? It is possible as well, that the CAT was on it's way out when you got it and starting it up for idle loaded it up and finished it off. This would screw up your vacuum readings as well. Seen it happen all of a sudden like that.

The flywheel only goes on one way and it is at TDC when pointing at 0 degrees. I just finished HGs on my daughters soon to be XT last night so I know that much for sure. Sounds like you either jumped the right timing belt, you've got weak spark or low fuel pressure. Year, make, model?