skishop69

He said the replacement was smaller. What I meant was he should be using the 13/16. How he got a smaller one, I'm not sure. Of course, the aftermarket world is full of oddities. Volume is pretty important when changing wheel cylinders to calipers. It's a good thing that Subaru over engineered a lot of things.

You should be using a bigger MC so the volume is correct for the system. It sounds to me like you have two problems. First, the MC is toast. It's internally bypassing so you're getting little to no pressure on that circuit. Second, I'd say that the rear caliper that isn't working is binding. It could be the piston or the slides. If the piston is sticking, what little pressure the MC is developing on that circuit is going to the opposite front caliper giving the impression of working.

+1! And good find! I have several wires broken inside the insulation that have eluded me. Can't remember seeing one on an older vehicle though. Bravo!

Thermal breakdown is dependant on many factors. 260 is the general rule of thumb. With todays oils and additives, that number applies mainly to 'cheap' oils. High quality synthetics will withstand 350 degrees. The downfall of multi viscosity oils are the VI's (viscosity improvers). These additives actually have a negative effect on the resistance to shearing force which is one of the main causes of breakdown. Synthetics don't suffer this problem as their engineering includes high resistance to shearing. Straight weight oils are best at resistance to thermal breakdown and shearing. That's why they are recommended for high rev/load, air cooled engines. Your best choice would be a synthetic, straight 30 given that you are not in a cold climate, then I would say 20. In the case of your timing being full advanced, your combustion temps were excessively elevated causing the oil temp you saw. The adapter and a decent 6 pass sandwich cooler will put you around 220 now that you've fixed the timing issue.

+1 Get yourself a test light or a volt meter. Clip the light to a good ground and touch the other end to the fuses in the fuse box to make sure it comes on or hook the ground (black) lead of the meter to ground and touch the red end to the fuses to make sure it's grounded correctly. Key on of course... lol Set the fan switch to the highest speed and touch the light to the each wire at the blower motor and it should light on one of them. Green/white and blue are the colors IIRC. If it does, then the blower motor is toast. If it doesn't, then you need to check your blower fuse and go from there. That's the quick down and dirty test.

I haven't done my hipo EA81 build yet, but having built several 350+HP engines I can tell you hitting 300 degrees is not uncommon. You can buy the Nissan spin on oil cooler adapter, run a cooler and keep it down around 250 if you're that concerned. Cooler is better with the oil.

IIRC... There are a few ECU controlled relays in that area. So, yes. Either grounding or ECU. I wouldn't go spend money on an ECU until you check the grounds to yours, though I suspect you will find them ok or you would be popping random codes besides the 24 when it happens. Shoot me a pm with your email and I'll PDF the schematics and specs tomorrow when I get home from work. I spent 10 hours getting the roof done and I'm fragged. 300sqft of barn roof will do that. Lol

You don't normally check resistance on a TPS. I know this sounds odd, but unless you are instructed to, you check the voltage coming out of the TPS. It should start around .4v-.8v and climb to whatever the input voltage is when you reach WOT. Ex: If your input voltage is 5v (as most current systems are), you would see .7v at idle climbing to 4.8 at WOT. As you slowly sweep through the throttle range, pay particular attention to the meter for 'drop outs' which would indicate a dead spot in the TPS. Also, check the resistance of all the incoming grounds to the ECU. I don't have time to right now, but I'll pull the schematics for your car later today. I have to get the roof on my new shed while there's no rain and then do heads on a Ranger. You can't measure resistance on any circuit to the ECU with the circuit connected or with it powered up unless instructed to do so by the FSM. Because it is solid state, you end up measuring parallel resistance of every circuit tied to the one your checking and it won't be what you're expecting to get. I'm still leaning towards ECU since you are developing new symptoms and problems.

Pulsing at low pressures means nothing to a carb. It's the normal function of pump operation on older rigs. It'll be fine.

Very nice work on the paint and body work! I don't do that anymore. Too damn tedious! Lol I got a guy for that now. Excellent attention to detail & hats off to you. Something about the exhaust though... The CAT should be right at the 'Y'. As far back as it is, it's not going to be completely efficient. Not enough combustion heat in the exhaust to light it off properly. It'll be ok for EPA standards and marginal for Cali standards but could end up plugging with soot not being able to light off properly. Have had that happen a few times with relocated CATS on small engines.

Have a Subie Christmas everyone! May your stockings be full of Subie goodies and may you wake to find a new (or project) Subie in your driveway!

Yeah! Nothing fishy! It's the LAW! You tell 'em Coug! Physics.... Phbbbbbbttt! BS is right! Newton was a wuss. Ohm could've taken him with one arm behind is back in a static state! Roflmao Sorry, couldn't help but take a friendly jab back atcha Wonder.:-p

Agreed. I have a degree in electronics and 20 years in auto diagnostics for electronics. I apologize for the typo as it should have been less than .02 volts. DOH! I also should have clarified 'voltage drop'. You check the circuit by placing one lead of the meter on one end of the live circuit and the other lead on the opposite end. Set to volts, this gives you the voltage drop on that circuit. I can tell you from experience that it doesn't always follow Ohms Law to the letter, but it's so close it's not worth ripping your hair out over. lol There are a few factors that play into it not being exact and it's just more math.

Acceptable resistance on a circuit is 7 ohms or less. Voltage drop on a 12-14v system with 5 ohms is less than .2 of a volt. Negligible in the scheme of things. Just pointing that out so you don't take extra time away from the search doing something that will at best yield intangible results.

The ground circuit is important and should be checked as you did. Fluctuating resistance in the ground circuit WILL affect your signal voltage back to the ECU because it will cause a reduction of voltage in the unit. Resistance on that circuit may change with the ECU powered up, but it should not fluctuate. If it's fluctuating when the MAF is unplugged, your problem is either one of the grounds to the ECU or the ECU itself. If it only fluctuates when plugged in, the hot wire is going bad. Also, it's a misconception that hot wire MAFS are self cleaning. If oil or other 'heavy' liquid contaminants get on it, it does not generate enough heat to sufficiently burn it off. This the causes the MAF reading to skew low. In other words, the MAF will show less air coming in than there really is, and the ECU will cut the fuel back and you will end up with a lean condition. You CAN clean any hot wire MAF as long as you use a designated MAF cleaner and you do it first thing before turning the key on. It has to be cleaned cold or you run the risk of damaging it.

Run it up to around 2000 rpm for 15 min or so. If you still have the CAT (or not) you've got coolant trapped in the exhaust. I've done HGs on engines that took 45 minutes to burn it out...

By 'fit exactly', he must mean the curve. Since El Camino's never came with t-tops and the Brat fun tops are meant to cover the hole in the roof and not take the place of said roof, he's in for a crap load of fabbing. The Brat tops aren't meant to seal around doors.

Only one correction Mr. Gary.... The 87.5 XT GL10 does have head light washers. One of the little bonus' of the unicorn. Lol Of course, that has the vented hood for the turbo so that riles out his find. My XT6 left today bound for Portland. Still have the 87 XT & the 87.5 XT GL10.

Don't know the state specs, but here in Wa it doesn't get emissions. It's over 25 years old. With some tweaking here and there, it could pass. Of course, it wouldn't be able to get out of it's own way. Lol I've done it before, but it's difficult. You'd really need access to a 5 gas analyzer.

Depends on if it's still soft and flexible. If not, good luck. Spray some soapy water on the inside and start at the middle of one of the sides. Using a couple of large screw drivers, pry the rubber outwards (from the inside) off the frame and keep working around the rubber and spraying. You'll need a special pliable sealant when putting it back in or it will most likely leak. Can't remember what it's called though. A glass shop can tell you.

Learn something new everyday! Cool, because that gives me hope to upgrade the 411 d/r I'm going to do. Don't like the idea of the VLSD center diff and even less do I want to weld it up, but for wheeling, I need a positive lock. Shoot me a PM. Maybe we can exchange some info.

It hasn't been done yet nor do I believe it can be. Bolt pattern is wrong, mainshaft diameter and spline counts are different. Not saying that with enough money it couldn't be done, but at that point, it would be cheaper to ship an EJ box from Australia. Since I have the plans for building the 411 DR box and have been tearing other tranny's apart trying to improve on it, I'm going with no. Lol

Generally a 2K winch isn't enough. Yes, you can double line it to get 4K, but your distance is shortened and time to pull increased. 4K-6K is what I'd go with. The pull also depends on how stuck you get, incline, etc. The more stuck you are, the more power required. I have an 8K Ramsey planetary for my 3/4 ton Chev. Can't have one too big! lol

Agreed for the most part, buy you have to take into account the type of wood and water content. I would not disagree normally, but since I have hauled 1850lbs of wood, it can be done. Not recommended though. lol I haul very large rounds, about 100lbs each, stacked high and the strapped down. Like I said, I only do this camping.

Skinny one if he's in the hatch! lmao