skishop69

True. Payload is there for safety reasons, hence why I said I wouldn't recommend doing what I do. Engineers do have a 20% safety margin so there is a little fudging room. I regularly haul 6-800lb loads with no issues and plenty of travel. I don't go past that with the exception of the camping excursions so I only need 2 loads for the weekend. Really!? You got an ATV in the back of a Brat? Lol We tried a couple different rigs and they were a scosch too wide. One ATV in the back is not going to max you unless it's some gnarly 4x4. He'll, someone here got their Arctic Cat sled in the back if a gen 2. That was hilarious and made me wanna do it with mine! Lol

First, the payload is much higher than that. Not 100% sure, but I believe it is closer to 1000lbs. Second, an ATV will not fit in the back. Well, most won't. They are too wide. You could do it by building a custom drive on rack over the bed. Lastly, you can add coil over shocks or reclock the trailing arms. I have had several loads of wood in mine up camping that were just shy of 2000lbs. I wouldn't recommend it for any kind of longer distance though. No Bruno for the bearings! Lol

Check all your grounds. Specifically the ones on the engine and for the ecm.

Have you seen my write up on the XT sunroof 'halo' (roof section frame) and hinge pocket rebuild? Very few things are 'beyond repair'!!! (to me) lol

Interior growing things is no issue, really. Dry it out, pick the moss out, use a carpet cleaner on the upholstery and carpet. Lysol everything before and after cleaning. That is of course if the fabric isn't literally coming apart. The sunroof and hood.... I have spares, but I'm not willing to part with them as they are spares for my 87.5XT GL10. Unless the hood is fragged, it can be worked. I can also work the sunroof for you. I do have an XT6 here I sold to 92_rugby_subie for his 5 lug swap. The rear glass is good and I can get it out in one piece, but you need to PM him to work something out. The hood is good as well, but not turbo. He's picking the car up next weekend, and I'm busy as hell so get in touch with him to see if we can make something happen.

If the wire is rated ay 110A surge, and the nominal is 90, there is roughly a 10% suge on initial flow (it gan be much higher, but shouldn't be on the alt). If the alternator output is 90A, you need a 100A fuse to avoid blowing it during the initial surge at max power. This will also put you below the wire threshold to minimize any circuit damage should it blow.

UBEC = underhood bussed electrical center

Yep. Battery to starter and to UBEC has no fuse. At the UBEC, you have a 125A or similar sized fuse depending on the manufacturer. Inside the UBEC main lines go through the maxi fuses then either out to components or to the dash mounted fuse blocks or to the mini fuses in the UBEC and out to the devices. Careful.... 20 years experience, degree, repair and engineering experience. (yes, I am being light hearted lol)

Battery cables are the only non-fused lines under the hood anymore. The reason was fire, safety and liability.

Nope. Fuse is there for not only circuit protection, but DEVICE protection. If the wire capacity exceeds the device load, this is especially important! A dead short in the device with no fuse will cause wiring to melt and possibly cause a fire. The manufacturer doesn't put them there because they are pretty!

Ok, I'm cranky and tired so forgive me. WRONG again!! He is talking about length in rergards to using a fuse.WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG! You are correct in that you use length and gauge to rate it's amperage capacity and the SIZE of fuse to use factoring the load of the device being powered. It doesn't matter if it's 2" away, you use a fuse, PERIOD. Length, routing, etc means NOTHING! Fuses are there for a reason. Argue semantics all you want, this is what I do for a living. Now I know why GD responds the way he does when you guys think you know what you're talking about...

Correct! Except that the fluid will drain out the vent IF it has one. Like G said, mount it under but upright.

"The fuse is only needed if the run of wire is longer than 18", to be technical." Incorrect. The length of the wire has absolutely nothing to do with using a fuse or not. You add an electrical accessory, you add the appropriate sized fuse on that circuit unless it is hooked to a correctly fused supply. Distance makes no difference. A short to gnd can occur at the source or inside the component, especially with the alt or batt. You can have a short in the windings, the regulator or inside the batt. YES, inside the batt! I see 3-5 of these a year. Degree in electronics and 20+ years in automotive electrical and electronics. There is NO correct or logical argument for not using a fuse. You wanna ruin components or burn your car to the ground, be my guest. It's not worth it. Oh, and the corrosion.... Put dielectric grease on all your connections. Problem solved. Going on 15 years with my utility trailer with no issues.

IF it was dealer installed and not AM, the wires to the compressor would look factory, not thrown in. It would run in vent and defrost. Not as familiar with the RX system, so I'd have to look into the diagram to be sure. Adding a switch to run the compressor 'at will' is great, just make sure the power (or ground) out of the switch goes to the other AC safety switches before the compressor.

Oh, and just so we don't have to have a pissing contest about this... http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/2011/Diagnosis/Propshaft/Propshaft_Angles.htm

No need to be sorry if you are incorrect. One piece drive line output and pinion angles have to be within 1 degree and the yokes must be timed properly. The angles on a two piece do not. There is a cancellation effect. Been building custom 4wds, rock crawlers and rods for 20 years. Can't tell you how many times I fixed someone else's mistakes. Get the angles wrong on a one piece and you'll get a vibration anywhere over the 40mph mark. Sorry, but reality and physics trump your misinformation theory.....

Strange, I've used NAPA axles on all my Brats for years and never had an issue. And if there's anyone who lives the 'Drive it like you stole it' motto, it's me....

Since no one caught this in the pictures, I will point it out. First, you have a straight line down the drive shaft out of the tranny. By this, I mean if you drew a line down the tranny main shaft and continued it out, the drive shaft itself is inline with the tranny. No good. U-joints are designed to operate at an angle. Second, you have a different angle at the pinion. The output shaft and pinion angles must be within 1 degree of each other. How 'steep' they are is irrelevant up to a point. Go to Ace hardware and get a magnetic angle meter. They're like $6. Stick it to the pinion flange and record the angle. Stick it to the output shaft housing and measure that. They should be no more then 1 degree apart. If they are (and I can see they are in the pics) raise or lower the pinion or tail shaft until they are close. Remember, no straight lines.

You might be able to pull the timing plug from the bell housing and use a flashlight to see if you can see the depth of the 'valleys' in the disc. Can't remember though if you can see the disc through there. If it were me, I'd put one in it. Cheap insurance.

If the mainshaft bearing has any play up/down or side to side, the seal will not work properly. The best way to verify a leak is go to Napa and get a bottle of UV dye and one of there cheap UV lights. Add the dye to the tranny or the engine, but not both. Use the UV light to track where the oil is coming from. If you add it to the tranny and get no reaction from the UV dye and the light, then add it to the engine and try again or vice versa.

There should be plenty of clearance in the tunnel. Take the rear driveline out and plug the hole. Trans plug, duct tape, whatever. You just don't want to loose fluid. Test drive it. Vibration gone, take the driveline back. Still there, axle/CV issue.

MMY? You have to remove the dash trim, then the cluster, then the cluster 'glass', then then you can change the gauges. Rob is right. If you have a known good cluster, swap it and save the bad one for parts later. I specifically yank almost every EA81 cluster I find just for spare gauges.....

To my knowledge from what I've looked into, there will have to be either header or cross member mods to use any EJ header. The stock exhaust has to be cut and pieced, but much easier than a header.

There are 4 or 5 of those rigs at PNP here in Puyallup (Seattle). I assume it's the car in your screen pic? If so, I will check on the price from them and then need your zip for shipping quote. BTW... I'm from Great Falls. lol

Sounds like the blew a power or ground to the cluster. You'll need schematics an d patience to get it out for testing.