skishop69

Sounds like a possible air pocket. Not common, but possible. Jack the front up as high as you can while it's running, the rad cap off and have some 50/50 coolant mix at the ready. This should purge the air and you top it off as it does.

JB weld is great, but the housings are made of a special plastic that JB tends not to bond too. There is a special epoxy for this carried by most auto parts stores. Can't remember the name though.

I assumed we were talking about 4 to 5 lug jobs. If not, my apologies, however the estimate is still going to be close. Rear hubs from the 87.5 XTGL10 can be redrilled to 5 lug and will fit. The spline count is the same.

Not to rain on your parade, but there are a number of guys here doing them for around $100 or so. A machine shop making them new? Punching the hole for the axle splines requires special tooling not readily available. Materials, CNC time, set up. I would imagine they are going to quote you somewhere in the 4-$500 range. I only say this because my buddy owns a machine shop and we've been over different options trying to keep the price down. We're building a jig so I can do it at my shop. Trying to get the guide done now, but it's racing season for him.... Just my 2 cents.....

Guys, hate to knit pick.... "the car would vibrate when stopped at a light or stop sign" Not going to be axles. We just bought a Baja and it does the same thing. I'm going to do a tune and injector service. Could be a belt and tensioner issue, but I doubt it. Those are almost always constant. Could just be a coincidence it started after the repair but there are some scheisters out there.

Just a side note here... It is a temp switch for the fan. The sender is on the engine.

Oh God yeah! Missed that. No bueno through turbo! lol

Subaru dealers still carry the resealing kit, and pumps can be found on the internet. if the seals aren't holding, you won't build pressure. There is also the chance the inside of the pump is scarred or worn if this went on for a long period. Only way to know is take it apart and inspect.

+! If you can get it running, hold it about 2500-3000 rpm and slowly pour the ATF (or even cold water) into the intake. I doubt seriously that the guides are the issue if you ran UEC through it. Most likely carbon lammed in the seats. Cold water will break it loose best.

Not trying to dismiss anyone's knowledge of the EA81 because there are those here who know more than I do, but I have been building high horsepower engines for 20 years and getting power people said shouldn't be had. Of course that's not always the case. I've pulled 400 HP and 500ftlbs of torque out a SB 400, 300 HP out of a Chevy 250CID and so on and so on. Yes, there can be driveabilty issues, however I have a degree in electronics and I am a driveability tech. Using the Megasquirt system allows for all the tuning you need with a laptop to work the bugs out. The information I've gathered shows the case, crank and rods will take the bump. That 200 is optimistic and the upper limit, but I assure you with the proper tweaking and machining, I will come close. I'm only doing just to do it. That and I want more power out of my Brat without changing the original configuration drastically. I'm almost done with the restoration and a few here have seen it and agree it's in the top of the nicest they've seen. I agree the EJ is the best, easiest way to go, no question. That's why I have one sitting for my 87.5 XTGL10. Just have to try pushing the limit of the EA. Oh, I'm using the hot wire MAF system. Less bugs that way and if airflow becomes an issue, you swap in a turbo MAF or something slightly larger from another platform. Again, Megasquirt allows you to tune it....

Not according to the computer modeling we've done. I also forgot to mention you have to do exhaust and an MSD unit....

Unless they do a visual inspection prior to getting smogged, there is nothing to worry about as an EJ swap running crappy will still be better than an EA81 injected. As for getting more power on an EJ, that's a toss up. Put EA82 pistons in the 81, put the injection on, regrind the cam, change to the Mazda injector and run a Megasquirt system and you can push close to 200hp. It's only cheaper if you can do all the work except machining yourself, but more power. Not against EJ. Doing one in my XTGL10, but keep the Brat 'stock' and doing the build.

The hill holder is not your problem unless it is leaking. It is strictly a open/close valve to maintain pressure in the system for hill starts. I suppose it's possible it's not releasing, but then you're clutch would not be working correctly. Your master cylinder is bypassing internally and is toast. Replace it. Make sure to bench bleed it first, the the whole system after install.

Bad ground. Check your connections at the main connectors and the grounds to the block. Particularly the one to the pass side of the intake.

Manifold passages can be cleaned with a coat hanger cut at an angle. Yes, the center post is the moving component and unless you have it off and test it, it is all you will see move. The valve attached to it is much larger.

Only a couple things come to mind. The beginning of CV or axle bearing failure. Go drive it somewhere where you can safely make some 20-30mph hard left turns. If it increases during the turn, it's CV. Then go in a straight line and swerve slowly left. If it gets worse, it's the bearing. Could possibly be something with the rotor, but I doubt it. Also check the tire for something stuck in it.

Is this a California emission Brat? If so, there might be an issue with the fuel cut off solenoid, but by the sounds of it, there is some debris in the float bowl that is obstructing the idle circuit. The quick fix method for this is to remove the idle screw and blow compressed air in the passage, put the screw back in, lightly bottom it out and the back it out 2-2 1/2 turns and adjust from there after it warms up. If you don't have access to compressed air, pinch off the fuel line and run it til it dies. Add STP carb cleaner directly into the carb vent. Start it for just a few seconds then shut it off. Top off the carb with the STP and let it sit overnight. Unclamp the fuel line and run it. Should dissolve whatever is giving you grief. Great trick I use all the time for things that sit.

You also need to look at your timing. If there is an issue there causing too much advance at cruise you will get high Nox as well. If you open the EGR at idle, it should just about die. If not, something is plugged.

Actually, the piston does compensate for pad wear. The seal on a caliper piston is square cut, not round and it's also not completely square. It's slightly beveled. When you step on the pedal, fluid flows into the piston bore moving the piston. When you release, the piston does pull back, but only slightly as the beveled seal will 'roll' slightly to 'catch' the piston in the bore. This keeps the pressure off when not on the pedal and allows the piston to adjust for inner pad wear. The slides adjust for outter wear and allow equal pressure to be applied to both pads. The reason it's not moving after compressing it is there is either rust or debris in the bore. This happens because brake fluid is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture. Even in a sealed system, this will happen over a period of years. Just another reason to flush your system every few years or so...

It's not worth fixing. This is just where the seal mounts? Put the seal in with a good dose of Ultra Grey around the outside. Looks like someone previously blew a bearing out and kept driving it.

Simply pull the spark plugs and crank it over for 30 seconds twice. Shoot some carb cleaner in the intake ports on the second time. Good to go.

Again...... Fuel pump getting weak....

+1 on those. Also could be the torque converter and or converter bushing.

Nope, that's definitely internal just like 987687's issue. Clutch issues are not gear specific.

What you meant to say was shifting into a specific gear is not usually the clutch. In this case, most likely not. The second gear syncro or blocking ring is probably going bad. The syncro meshes the gears together, and the blocking ring slows down the internal shafts to allow the syncro to mesh the gears.