skishop69

"That sounds less than ideal. Your motor will take longer than normal to warm up. Same thing as having the thermostat stuck open all the time." Actually it works just fine (as I've dome it before) and flow through the turbo is negligeable and barely affects warm up time. That coolant flow diagram gives great info. You can definitely figure out the best route with that.

GD (General Disorder) is close to you and knows what he's doing. The rebuild as previously stated is easy and the cam/weber option is good. Injection can be transplanted as well and I've heard tell of 200hp on and EA82. I'm going to try it with one of my Brats.

Yes. But what you could do that would be cheaper would be to get an ignition cylinder from NAPA with a key. Pull your door and trunk cylinders and have them re-keyed to the new ignition and make sure to have several spare keys. There is no One of a kind key. There are only around 200 combinations with the number of tumblers in the cylinder.

Returning it to the thermostat housing will not work. Flow rate in the system will cause the coolant to either stagnate or flow backwards. NAPA carries 'T's that allow you to splice into a rad hose with a heater hose (or smaller) port. Do this after the t-stat and the coolant goes to the rad. What I'm doing is adding a small fan cooled motorcycle radiator from Evil Bay with an electric pump and making a stand alone cooling system for the turbo and intercooler. Of course, I have a few of the stock EA82t AWIC's.

Incorrect young Grasshopper. Two words.... J.C. Whitney. Try their catalog. They have multiple types for damn near everything. I have used them for many vehicles that have discontinued weatherstripping and never come up empty handed. Find the closest match and your golden. You may have to angle cut the corners and glue them together, but they will work. If they are not the channel mounted type, they will have to be glued on. Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to apply or they won't stay. Also, call a Subie dealer and check. Just because it's DC'd doesn't mean there won't be some in the warehouse in Philly. I've gotten quite a few items like that.

You can install it yourself, but here's the problem. The windshield gaskets out there for the Brats are nowhere near as good a fit as they used to be. If you put it in yourself, it will most likely leak. When you have it installed, the use a black or clear silicone around the outside edge and then a material called beading that is very soft and tacky between the glass and the rubber. It's like butyl tape. Let them install it. If it leaks, it's their problem.

Nice little rig! Unfortunately, there are no longer any new tailgate trim pieces. The last one was purchase a few months back. Keep an eye out in the classifieds here, junkyard sightings, post in the wanted section, Evil Bay or CL. As far as that rust goes, get it sandblasted down to remove all the rust. Hit it with Rustoleum primer and paint if you want color. If you don't get ALL of the rust, it will come back through the primer and paint. A universal light bar can be mounted to the topper and I think they still make a universal on that will clamp to the gutter, but then you can't open the fun tops.

The door glass is Brat only, but I believe the windshield is shared by a couple models. I also know as of a few months ago, it was still available for about $125-$150.

Not wacko, just not safe nor will it work for a few reasons. I don't think there's enough space between the holes of the two different patterns to fit nuts and weld them. IF there is enough space, that much welding would not only weaken the hub, but keeping it from warping would be difficult. And last but not least, Subie wheels are hub centric and most 5x100 are lug centric. Since you have to machine the centering ridge off the hub, Subie wheels wouldn't center correctly anymore.

Not really. Many have done it for years and since Subaru did a pretty good job over-engineering things, I don't see an issue.

Finally getting close to done. I will be over at my buddies machine shop in the next few weeks to make the final piece of the jig so I can get this rolling. The plan is to raid pick n pull so I have a few sets done and we will do a swap so you're not down. I will take payments through Paypal with a core charge on your hubs. That charge will be whatever PnP charges me so if I don't get yours, I'm not out cash. Once I get your hubs back, the core will be refunded.

My bad.... Right side (pass). Duh... lol

Not trying to pee on your project, but having bolted more engines to transmissions or vehicles that were never intended, there's a few things to consider. The Metro was a 50 mpg when brand new. With age and mileage, your down to 40. I know several who have owned them. Metro's eat exhaust valves for breakfast. A sad fact, but true none the less. The metro weighs about 5 or 600lbs less than a Hatch. Add the extra weight of a subie, the rolling resistance of adding the 4wd components and you will be down to around 30-35 and 35 is optimistic. It doesn't matter if you're in 4wd or not. Since the driveline has no disconnect, you have added resistance (friction) to the drivetrain through it, the rear diff, axle shafts and rear bearings. If you're planning on turning the Metro 4wd, you've got 120lbs of tranny, about another100-120lbs of rear mustache bar, diff, driveline and axles and approx 50lbs of misc fabbing. Add to that the fact you have no place to run the rear driveline without serious mods.... Just playing devils advocate here.

+1 Especially the ground on the left (pass) side of the intake where it bolts to the head. If that isn't CLEAN and tight it will wreak havoc. Trust me, it kicked my butt and I've got 25+ years as a tech. lol

Chances are, you don't need premium anymore. Octane rating is the fuels ability to resist detonation due to compression prior to the firing event. It wasn't all that critical on the Ea82s as it was on the Ea82Ts. At any rate, with standard wear of engine parts, it's not going to matter now since your compression is lower now than when it was new. Back then it might have caused a detonation problem and possibly ate a piston or exhaust valve, but I doubt even that. I ran my Ea82T on regular.

Everyone has good ideas and only one is correct and I would stake $100 on it. Either they ground the intake valve or the seat incorrectly or knurled the valve guide wrong and the valve is sticking. Been here, done this. Like pressingonward said. Compression test followed by a leakdown test or use a vacuum guage. Test cold, then hot and test both cylinders on that bank.

Front cross member, steering rack, hoses, pump/mounts/all associated brackets and pulleys. Shazam! You're ready!

I've been too busy with a uber secret Subie project to have time to finish the jig. Don't know about the adapters....

Custom built only.... And I'll be honest, a trailer with almost any kind of weight behind a gen1 doesn't fly well. I had a hitch on my second gen1 that I used to tow a 4x7 that I would put my dirt bike on. Fine around town and not horrible on the freeway, but it did tend to walk on it's own quite a bit and if there was any kind of hill involved, you practically had to keep it redlined to keep from loosing ground. Since I was young and stupid, I didn't care about abusing the engine this way. Bottom line? Doable, just be aware of the vehicle limits and potential for unintended abuse.

Correct. It is an improved design.

Someone here recently (within the past year) posted they had found speakers which fit perfectly in the dash on the Brats, wagons, hatches, etc.. and had pictures of the install. I have seen the threads for the 3.5 rounds and the 4x6, but I don't believe it was either one of these and didn't come up with anything else during the search. Since I installed a powered FM modulator for my Zen player, I've noticed the 28 year old speakers have issues. lol BIG surprise! Anyone know what those speakers were?

You have an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body. Split tubing or disconnected line. Spray brake clean over anything intake related while it's running and when the idle changes, you've found the leak.

+1 At this point he's jerking you around. Call him and tell him (directly or voice mail) that you will be at his house in one hour with the police to retrieve your car. Call him the day you are going to do it. No advanced notice for him to move it. Call the police and tell them the situation. He has your vehicle at a private residence and has taken money to fix a problem he has not and now will not take your calls or release the vehicle. I believe they call this a domestic standby. They are there to make sure he releases it. If he doesn't show, I believe they contact him directly. I have only held a customers vehicle once, and that was because they wanted to take it elsewhere to get the work done and didn't want to pay for what had been done to that point.

All O2 sensors have the same thread size/pitch. Any three wire will work if you have the schematics. As covered in another thread, you're not going to see any kind of performance gain from doing this. Mileage or otherwise. The heater was introduced strictly to bring the sensor to proper operating temp faster to reduce start up emissions. It doesn't affect anything else.

Flat Out gaskets is the only one I know that carried the copper gaskets for the EA81. Last time I talked with them they no longer stocked them, but they still have the dies and will stamp out a set if requested. They were a very soft copper (alloy) if I remember right and didn't have an external leak issue.