skishop69

+1 on the coil and fuel pumps will do the same thing. The windings get hot and short, then cool down and open back up. You need to check for fuel and spark when it happens.

There is a connector by the belt. Disconnect both of them and leave them that way. Then you can crank to your hears content!

It will have NO benefit on mileage or performance. The heater is there strictly to bring the system into closed loop mode faster on startup and reduce emissions. As Dave pointed out, if you have an emissions issue, it'll help. Basicly, if you reduce the back pressure too much, the O2 sensor won't be heated properly by the exhaust gas and thus will not read correctly. Add the heater and all is well and happy.

Check the ground on the right side rear intake bolt. Make sure it is there, CLEAN and tight. Second, check the condition of your cap and rotor and also wiggle the disty shaft back and forth to make sure there is no play. Might want to have a look at your plugs as well and if you have a volt/ohm meter, measure the resistance on your plug wires. Should be 1K ohm per foot.Those are your basics. It doesn't sound fuel related. That's usually a bog or a stall.

Remove the primary and main jets from the carb. Get a set of pin drills and determine the current size of the jet. Write it down. Using silver solder and a small butane torch, solder the single hole (top or bottom) closed. Redrill the solder with the pin drill starting at .010" SMALLER than the original measurement. reassemble and drive making sure you have new plugs in so you can see the color after the drive. Also make sure to load it good (floored up a big hill or drive floored with the brake on a few times) to make sure you get a good color reading. Also listen for pinging. Any pinging, too lean. Remove the jet and redrill one size larger. The color on the plugs should be a nice tan. Anything lighter than tan is too lean. it's a pain, but it works.

Water enters the rockers through the drain holes in the bottom of the windshield frame and drains down through the A pillar. Why someone thought they were good idea is beyond me. the drain holes in the A pillar get plugged and it has to go somewhere. All of mine (windshield drain holes) have been sealed, and I've never had any major windshield frame or rocker panel/A pillar rust issues. Some also enters through the body seams if not properly sealed in the cowl and fender areas. Then there is the spray from around the fenders that can get past the door seals and rust the outside. You could drill a couple of drain holes, but I would recommend some kind of rubber flap that is only open on the back side (opening facing the rear of the vehicle). This would allow the water to drain and prevent more from entering the rocker.

Best 4wd EVER for snow. We would take the one we had growing up in Montana and run the farm roads until it was pushing snow over the hood! They are great in 'dry' snow. Wet snow as well, but deep wet snow is another story as it tends to pack in underneath the body and lift you up which is no bueno for traction. Good tires are a must though. I wouldn't trade my Brat in the snow for anything....

If you have a top leak, it is not the seal around the lip. I can almost guarantee it. It's the seals between the hinge pockets and the roof. It was a foam type seal and has dried up. I've done this game before. You need to get them out first of all, and most likely, the screws on the top of the roof are rusted. Use lots of PB Blaster and a heat gun to work it in, then start trying to work the screws loose. Get an old inner tube (heavy duty) and use the rubber from it to make new seals. Needs to be thick enough to stand above the lip in the hinge pockets or you will need to file the lip down to get a good seal. Get new stainless screws and sealing washers from Lowes or HD. If you decide to do this, I can send you a template for the gasket.

Won't affect it at all. The concern here would be enough back pressure to ensure the sensor stays hot enough to function properly. I only see that as a problem if you are going to do dual exhaust.

No need to weld them closed unless you want it that way, and yes, the lip has to be removed.

More cabin fumes? That's easy! You route the exhaust right up through some 2" holes you cut in the floor. :lol::lol: Sorry couldn't resist based on the name of the post...... Seriously though, it would be tough to do with the CAT on. If you're in a non-emission area, let your kitties go. You'll need 2 mandrel bent 90 degree pieces to weld to the 'manifolds' so they go straight back parallel to the heads, then 2 more 90's to come straight up. From there, you just mix and match angles/pipe lengths and cherry bomb sizes to get where you want.

Just throwing this out there. I've been working on a jig that will allow me to take your 4 lug and drill them to 5 lug and they will be hub and wheel centric. Gonna be somewhere in the neighborhood of $50-$100 per set plus shipping, and I plan on doing a few sets so we can do an exchange program and eliminate your down time. And a correction on someones earlier statement. Wheel centric means the wheels are centered by the lugs, not the hub or a spacer. Hub centric uses the hub and/or spacer. Most rims on the market are hub centric.

That depends. If it's a factory set up and you don't have the heads, it's pretty much worthless. The heads for that set up have the intake and exhaust ports in different places so you can't put it on a US engine. Never seen this set up before? That's how rare they are. Now consider that most of the time someone sees something like this and goes "Cool! I gotta have it!" and pulls it off not knowing the heads are different and the engine goes bye-bye. That's how rare the heads are. If you have the whole thing, it'd be whatever you're willing to pay. That set-up makes another 10-15 HP IIRC.

I've never paid more than $300 for one (non-running/mechanical issues) and I've parted several over the past few years.

The bearings and most likely the shaft are shot. Rebuild parts for these turbos are discontinued, but there are still a few out there. It's pretty common. Find something different to bolt on or get a used one. The rebuild price won't be worth the car (usually).

Ok, after over an hour of pulling my hair out, I give up. I used to have a link to a dealership that let you access the factory parts catalog but unfortunately, it was bookmarked at work and they installed a new operating system and everything went bye-bye. If anyone knows of a link to the factory catalogs or has one they could PDF me for an 84 Brat, I'd appreciate it. The parts I am looking for are still available, but I don't trust the parts guys to get the right numbers. Thanks!

Add a ground from the body/chassis to the radiator. My guess is you have a bad connection (ground) that gets hot from the current pull during the first few cycles then loses it's ability to conduct.

MSD offers a timing boost controller to do what you want. You can find them cheap on Ebay.

you have to remove the tranny and split it open. Not on of Subaru's brighter ideas...

I did this same thing to my XT GL10 but when I took the driven fan off, i used another Subie electric fan in it's place and it was just fine.

As GD stated.... The engine will NOT go into closed loop mode if below 180 degrees. You be running enriched will will lower your mileage and show absolutely no power gains on the EA82. Where it is true a cooler engine runs better, longer and with more power, this does not apply to passenger cars in general. The engines are designed and programmed to run at a specific temp range. +1 for GD, put on an oil cooler.

Grade and octane are the same. Each step up in grade is a step up in octane. That is all the grade rating is for. Changing your octane for altitude change does nothing UNLESS... You are advancing your timing by more than 4 degrees to compensate for the lost power due to 'less' oxygen. Then it would make a difference to reduce the ping from the advanced timing and the combination of both would yield an increase in power. Nothing major, but noticeable....

Sh*t happens. I've been doing this for over 20 years and still make mistakes. Live and learn....

First off, check the ground on the intake. It's on the right side of the intake where the intake bolts to the head and it should be the bolt under the runner. If the bolt or threads are corroded or you did not get it back on tight, you will get this type of scenario. If that checks out... Then you need to check the injector control circuit, positive side. Since they all share a common ground, it should be good, but this test will tell you if either is bad. Go to radio schmuck and get a small 6 volt light bulb. It needs to be no higher than 6v as the injector pulses are so fast with a lower current, that it'll be hard to see it flashing. Unplug the #3 injector and hook the bulb to the connector, careful to not damage the connector terminals.Start the engine and watch the bulb for pulsing/flashing. If you don't see any, go to next step. Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to ohms and go from the negative terminal on the injector connector to the battery. It should read no higher than 5 ohms. If it reads higher that that or 'OL' then you have a bad ground to that injector. You can either find an fix the problem area or run a separate ground. If the ground tests good, the problem is in the positive (control) side of the circuit. You will do an ohms test from the connector to the appropriate terminal of the ECU. Again, no more than 5 ohms. If you don't find a problem with either circuit, the injector driver in the ECU has crapped out need you'll need to replace the ECU.

Definitely too much. maybe closer to $2K if it's in as good of shape as he says. Also, the turbo Brat didn't come out until '84. Just noted auto..... Take a hit for that. It means it's a DL, not a GL. Say $1800 unless it's immaculate and with rust, it's not.....