skishop69

It acts as a ring lubricant and 'prolongs' the ring and cylinder wall life. Of course, since the Subies design has the rings practically swimming in oil, it won't really accomplish anything.

Most of the braided lines you will find will be very long lengths for lifted applications. Any short ones you find will be for race apps and cost an arm and a leg. I'll be finishing up my stripping my Brat for paint tonight, so I'll take a look and see what you need to do to bypass with the fittings.

I wouldn't count on any place making you 'rubber' brake lines. Especially if you tell them what it's for or the guy is smart enough to identify the line. Brake line flare are distinct in that they are a type of inverted double flare. It's a legal liability. Been down this road many times.It's why any brake lines you get for a lifted application are braided stainless and so expensive.

+1 With everything you've done, you've got to have restricted exhaust. ie: Cat. It's done it to my Brat and my XT. If they burn oil or run rich (which Carters do), they will burn up the Cat pretty quick. The task of the Cat is to burn leftover hydrocarbons and convert Co in the exhaust. If you add 'fuel' (burnt oil or running rich) to the exhaust, it raises the temp in the Cat exponentially and causes it to melt.

Not if it's leaking from the hill holder valve. You can get the proper fittings from NAPA to eliminate it. I believe it's a female/female flare union. Did it once long ago, but don't remember exactly what we did. You CAN'T use compression fittings for brake lines. They won't take the pressure.

Ummmm... 100psi static on both sides. You've over charged the system which accounts for your compressor having problems turning when you hot wire it. Static pressure should be no more that 80psi at around 100 degrees ambient temp. If both sides read 100psi with the compressor running, you have a low side blockage which again will cause a compressor issue. Spec calls for 1.8lbs of R12. If recharging with R134, you can push it to 2.0lbs but no more.

That would be me. I'm down in Puyallup. PM me with what you need.... Ski

Ok, the problem you have isn't boiling fluid. The floaties you see are just crap knocked loose from the flush and general wear/old age on components. If the fluid were boiling, you wouldn't be able to remove the cap without getting third degree burns. You have a couple things that could be going on. First is your master cylinder, the most likely cause. It's internally bypassing and will only get worse. Second, are brake hoses. The may look good, but if they are degrading, the will bulge/expand when heated up. This is hard to catch without getting them toasty, standing on the brakes and having someone check for bulges. The fluid is most definitely not your problem. As for not using DOT5, it's primary use is vehicles that don't see a lot of driving and don't get regular service. Water is going to get into the brake system one way or another, it's inevitable. DOT5 won't chew up your paint and plastics and it has a slightly higher boiling point. Not really a 'performance enhancer'.

What makes you think DOT 4 'isn't taking the heat going down hills'? I lived there for 5 years and ran the hell out of my Brat in 100+ weather up and down Benton Hill with a trailer and motorcycle and never had a problem. Pedal fade? Boiling fluid? Riding the brakes too much? Need a more precise account of what's happening. And no, there aren't any kits available for use with DOT 5. You shouldn't need to change anything however, DOT 5 is NOT compatible with any of the other fluids and cannot be mixed. Not to be an a**, but an older Subaru doesn't have enough weight/power to warrant anything above DOT 4 even for racing. If you're boiling fluid, or having pedal fade, either you or the system is causing it, not the fluid.

If it were cut down as I need it, yes it would fit in a trunk or back seat. Not a hurry as it's driveable and I have my truck and bike for commuting. I do have a line on one locally that just came to my attention about an hour ago. Someone here has a yard full of Brat's, but I still have to make contact. I will know hopefully by the middle of the week.

Shouldn't be all that hard. I actually only need the section from the middle of the wheel well back (and that's giving a few extra inches) so it could be cut down. Wrap it cardboard then shrink wrap and drop it with Fed Ex or the local Greyhound station. I've shipped fenders before and it takes about 30 min to package and shipping around $75 to $100 depending on size. If you have family there who would let him drop it off and hold it til you are able to take care of it, that would be great. Ski

Bump...

PM'd you...

I found a left rear quarter panel for my Brat, but he won't ship. I need someone to pick it up, package it and ship it. He says he's 10 minutes from Summit racing's main store (44260). I really need this, so let me know if someone can help. Willing to throw some cash your way. Thanks, Ski

Breakfast Club!!!! We have a winner! Now tell him what he's won Johnny.....

I have the flapper style MAF. It's for an early EA82t, but I believe it's the same. Send me a pic of your MAF and the harness side of the connector. skishop2@yahoo.com

This is what happens at my house when you leak oil on the driveway.... DO I STUTTER!? - Bonus points for anyone who knows where the original form of that quote came from...

They are. Shoot me your info. Gutted the inside today, and will be pulling engine and tranny tomorrow. Looks like it may be around until Thursday by the time I get it cut up.

I know this should be in FS, but I'm stripping an '86 Turbo 2WD XT and I'm doing it tomorrow so it'll be gone by Tuesday. Things I don't or won't have: Struts, glass, front seats, dash bezel, intake, turbo wiper trans and rear discs/calipers. Let me know what you need and can afford if anything. Cheap or free. Not looking to turn a buck here. Just want someone to get use of this before I cut it up. PM me and I'll get back to you ASAP.

Well, I finally pushed my Brat drifting limits past the edge. We went out to my friends place yesterday for a baby shower. The woman folk did their thing and the men folk did theirs. When I got there, my buddy had his stump-jumper Ranger out and was 'making' new trails on the property. They're backed up to thousands of acres of forest and the old service roads can be accessed from his yard. He finished the 'trail' and then the PS pump locked up and so he brought the truck back out. I said let's take the Brat in and tool around. Of course, they all chuckled and said I'd never get back to the road without hitting a tree. Knowing the capabilities of the little beast, I took it right through without touching a single tree. Got onto the 'main' road (much to their surprise) and said "Let's go!" They were scared to ride in the back so one road with me and the other two grabbed his quad. There are a number of hairy switch back turns on the road. They took the lead on the quad and I followed. We got to the top of one particular lookout with an awesome 360 degree view where we could see Rainier and downtown Seattle. The guy riding with me was all up on everyone about my drifting, so they wanted to see it on the way back down and followed me. Needless to say, the last hairpin did me in. Came into the corner, started the drift (too fast) and went from the road to the grass, sideways to the edge and off of a tree. The left rear corner did not fair well at all. If anyone has a parts Brat with a good left rear quarter, I need the section from the back of the wheel well, back to the end where the gate is and top to bottom. Got the cash and don't want to try and 'patch' this. Pictures of the carnage to follow....

Not to sound like an a** (that's GD's job ) but you're going to be sorry you used the blue. It's pretty much the worst thing you could have gone with. Hold that... Were you talking the actual blue or the slightly opaque light blue? Blue = might be ok Light blue = toast

As stated before.... USE ULTRA GRAY! Not some color or type of your choosing. Ultra gray is factory sealant on all major car makers. I use it straight on the pan. Seals great. Don't try and use something else. It will end up leaking.

You actually don't need the fan clutch if you have the correct size fan, wired correctly so it is temp controlled. I pulled mine from my 87.5 XT GL10 and have had no issues at all. Buy a cheap, non-air-moving chinese POS and you're going to have issues. These cars are notorious for heating up. If yours heated up just because you switched to electric, you might want to be looking at your rad.

Get a good look at what's on it and search through JC Whitney's weatherstrip section for door jam stripping that matches. You will want the kind that os maent to attach to pinch weld around the door frame.

That's because regardless of what Snap Off says, it can't communicate with gen 2 subies.