skishop69

If you want to see inside to see what happened, I'd just sawzall a section of the top off. Trying to separate that seam weld will be a losing battle.

Right. My bad. I was thinking second gen. Error aside, yes, you do need to find a way to inspect and test it.

It has to be something in the pickup line, not in the tank itself. Pull the sender back out, plug one end of the pickup line and blow into the other. That should show your problem area. Either that or the 'sock' on the bottom of the pickup line is plugged. That would do it too if you were under a hard load up a hill, but wouldn't explain the no problem in reverse.

You need to get that fuel pump wired correctly so that it shuts off if the engine stalls. Having it on an ignition switched relay is dangerous. If you're ever in an accident and don't or can't shut the ignition off and there's a fuel leak, things can go very bad very fast.

A couple of things come to mind. First, it's possible your float is set too low in the carb. I would check that and make sure it's set correctly. Second, if you've got 9 gallons in the tank (3/4 full) and this is happening, then you could have a rust hole in the pickup tube inside the tank. It would have to be a small hole such that the pump can overcome the loss of suction for a while but eventually loses the battle. Drop the tank, pull the sender and inspect.

That would be too cool! However, most likely not with a stock swap and not without breaking things. Bump the horsepower and splurge for some really good axles and hells yeah! lol Just have to do the math. How much weight over the front wheels, wheelbase length and how many ftlbs of torque delivered to the rear wheels and solve for how much torque it'll take to lever the front wheels up. I don't know the exact math formula, but this guy covers it pretty good. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/how-much-torque-need-lift-front-end-6592.html Or, Google: How to solve how much torque to lift the front wheels of a car off the ground

That is way too high. Deadheading a factory pump should net you about 60PSI, no more than 70 so the pump you have has too high a pressure rating. The specs Naru gave you are what they should be running. Those injectors weren't designed to seal against that kind of pressure so that's why you're getting fuel in the cylinders. It's also possible that if it were ran at that pressure for long enough, the pintles and seats in the injectors are damaged and won't seal now. Just like Naru said, the line from the FF goes to the rear hard line which feeds all of the injectors. There should not be any T's. Disconnect the supply and return lines from the engine and the tank/fuel pump and blow compressed air through them to make sure they're clear. If they are, hook them back up except the return line at the tank and put it in a can or bottle. Fire up the engine briefly to see if you're getting fuel out the return line and that will tell you if you're hard lines up front are clear without pumping gas all over a running engine. Any T's you find need to be removed. Supply line should go form the tank to the pump to the engine and the return line goes from the engine to the tank. Both are a straight shot. No T's. It's possible someone was screwing around with it and got the supply and feed lines swapped and then tried to 'fix' a problem they created by adding the T's to relieve pressure or that something in the return side is plugged.

In order to install shoulder belts in the rear AND make them safe, you'll need to weld a nut (same thread size as the seat belt mounting bolt) to a piece of 3/16" plate steel. That piece will need to be placed on the B pillar and welded around the perimeter so it has full contact with the B pillar. I would also drill 3 or 4, 1/2" holes around the welded nut and weld inside them to the B pillar. This will distribute the load of an impact across a greater area of the B pillar reducing stress on the metal. The B pillar metal was not designed to take the lateral loading of a seat belt during impact and may tear since it didn't have rear, factory shoulder belts. Do it without the plate metal and bad things will ensue. If you don't have the ability to weld, or know someone who can (or bribe someone who knows how to ) then it's going to cost a pretty penny providing you could find a shop who would take on the responsibility.

+1 They are made by Moog. There's nothing wrong with the nylock style as long as the threads stick out past the nut.

Good job!

+1 Tuning on turbo'd carb is a PITA and if you've never done it there's a good chance of fragging the pistons or the rod bearings. Then you've got timing to contend with. The dizzy on a carb'd engine isn't up to the task. You need one that will do advance an retard. Not saying it can't be done or you shouldn't, but boosting a high mileage engine usually ends in a yard sale. If you're set on doing it, read everything you can get your hands on, understand it and be prepared to spend more money if you want it to last.

OK, I give! lol Cool little find though. I'd hold on to that!

Good upgrade. One piece of advice: Get rid of the scotch locks and attach the wires correctly. Solder them and use heat shrink tubing or use shrink type but connectors. Scotch locks are hinky at best, ruin wires, provide a poor connection for loaded circuits and let in moisture which leads to corrosion and electrical Gremlins. This is not meant to offend, but inform. If you want a little more info, I did a lengthy write up on electrical here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159953-wiring-dos-and-donts-a-guide/

I put Pioneers in my Brat. If you do a search here you'll find other options or do what I did and go to Crutchfield where you can cross reference speaker sizes to get what you need.

+1 to both above. If you grease ANY rubber components, use silicone grease. regular petroleum based grease eats rubber parts. Granted it takes a while, but it will damage them.

Dude, that is awesome! I knew there was a kit, but have never seen an actual swap. I bet it runs like a raped ape! Careful with the turbo. That tranny is only good to a little over 200 hp then things will start breaking. No bueno! lol

Incorrect. You need to hook up a back pressure gauge and watch it. At idle and most throttle conditions, exhaust is under vacuum. As the hot exhaust gasses go through the pipe, they cool and become more dense and pick up speed. This causes a draw on the system creating a vacuum. It's only 1"-2", but it is a vacuum. The only time it may be under pressure is during hard acceleration and even then, it should not exceed 2psi and ideally should be 0psi. Any other lifetime mechanic here will tell you the same. When emphatically correcting someone. you should be certain of your facts before doing so.

The plus side is that when you go down to Schwab to have them put on, they'll tell you all of your front end parts are shot and you need new calipers, pads, rotors and a master cylinder if you want their nifty warranty so you'll have a bunch of brand new parts you didn't need. Like carfreak said, the Kumho's are good. I had them on my Brat till I chunked one. Good tire.

An infra red thermometer is not going to tell you if it's plugged or not. It's only going to tell you if it's lighting off or not. Just because it's not lighting off doesn't mean it's plugged. You need a back pressure tester. Remove the O2 sensor and install the tester. I've never heard of anyone testing back pressure at the EGR, nor have I ever seen a tool to hook up the tester there. Not to mention, exhaust gas in the exhaust pipe is actually under a vacuum whereas at the EGR, it's under pressure so I don't know how you'd get any accurate info out of that. You need to set it at top dead center and check the timing belts and the ignition timing. CATs don't plug up all of a sudden. It happens over time. My money is on a slipped timing belt.

It could have jumped a tooth. Check it and the ignition timing. Pulling the O2 to drive around and test for a plugged CAT won't do anything. The hole isn't big enough to relieve enough pressure to make a noticeable difference if it's plugged.

Plugged fuel filter, incorrect timing or a plugged air filter would do the same. Bad MAF maybe. Any codes?

Yeah, I saw that article. That is too cool. Would love to have a RHD XT, but there's no way I could pay what they'd want. Then there's the shipping. Fuji did discontinue the XT in 1991 and the EJ series engines didn't come out until 1993 and the EJ20 was later than that so there's no way that XT has a 2 liter engine. Still too cool!

+1 Since it was working before you changed the ICM, you either have a wire in the wrong place or you got a bad ICM. It happens.

You can buy UV oil dye from your local parts store and a battery powered UV light online. Add the dye to your oil and check the engine daily with the UV light. When the leak appears, it will glow yellow or orange under the UV light.

Keep the RX. In the grand scheme of things, the wagon is the 'poor cousin' and not worth as much as an RX and also not nearly as fun or unique.