skishop69

A few things come to mind, but none that can be verified without teardown. Broken or improperly installed rings. A compression test may or may not show anything. Valve guides that were improperly knurled (sized) or improperly installed valve seals that have popped off. Improperly routed breather lines and as you mentioned, PCV. Are you sure it's oil spatter? Older Subies run pretty rich on cold start and produce a lot of moisture in the exhaust. The carbon comes out wit the water in a spatter pattern. As for the oil loss, you need to physically examine the underside of the engine. I've seen oil pumps that have no leaks at idle, but start dumping once they build some pressure.

This should probably be posted elsewhere, but I need some help for a friend down in your area. He's getting back on his feet and needs reliable transportation. He was oogling my Subie collection and being only 22, he hasn't really seen the old school stuff but likes it.l Ok, back on track. He needs to keep it around $500-$600 but could stretch to $800 if someone would work out payments. He's a good kid and just spent the weekend here splitting a cord and a half of wood as thanks for me helping. It doesn't have to be pretty, but it does need to be reliable and if there's anything it needs, then we'll address that. Thanks in advance for the help guys. Ski

Well, sh*t. The information I found online and the the info supplied by the seller both said it fit EA71 and EA81 and it is part #15010AA120. I guess I have a $40 paperweight. Funny thing is, I just resealed mine (and it's leaking again, and yes I used the subie seals/gaskets) and I am 100% sure it did not have a longer snout on it, so I would have to say someone installed the wrong pump at some point in the past. I believe the pump housing to be warped as I can't get a permanent seal between the engine case and pump. Once it starts leaking and gets worse, it starts draining back after sitting for 4 hours or so and I get about 5 or so seconds of engine noise on cold start. Don't want to ruin the bearings so I decided to replace it.

I believe you are describing the 5/16" bypass lines under the intake. Just get some standard 5/16" fuel line to replace them. It's common for them to blow with age and even more so when overheated or run hot.

The one I posted second was checked by Subaru and is listed as an EA81 pump and matches what is on my '85 Brat. Are you sure the first two are EA81? Just want to be sure before shelling out money. I just paid $50 for the second one. Are they interchangeable?

The 'nose' isn't the same. Here's a genuine Subaru EA81 pump. See the difference?

They say it's for an EA81, but I've never seen one that looks like this. Perhaps an EA71? And there's another one.... Are all EA81 oil pumps the same? I thought they were.....

HOLY SH*T!!! DO NOT modify that Brat in ANY way. That is super clean and you may not know it, it's worth a pretty penny. Judging from the pics, I'd say as high as $8K at an auction. That seems to be where they've been recently in that condition. That is a rare find mileage and condition wise. Congrats and welcome!

The extra battery capacity will only work for a while. The alternator just doesn't make enough juice to keep up. There's a post here for swapping in a Nissan Maxima alternator. It has the amperage you'll need and its a bolt in swap.

I'm down in Puyallup, about 25 min from you. I run my own place on the side. If you want, you can email me and let me know what you need. I'm half the cost of a regular shop and all work is warranted. skishop2@yahoo.com

First off, welcome to the board. Second: Love the board name! Most folks here aren't going to get that one... Have you checked codes yet? It sounds like a temp sensor, but you say you've changed them. Could be a connection issue. If it won't idle up when cold, the IAC isn't stepping up. Passage could be blocked or again, wiring issue. Let us know about the codes.

Someone just came up from Olympia and bought the whole '87 RX from Airport Auto Wrecking in Bremerton. I just made a deal with him Friday for the tranny... Damn I hate Murphy....

I've poured stp straight into carbs that were completely plugged, soaked 24 hours and ran fine. I use it regularly on my '74 Suzuki RE5 rotary engine motorcycle as the carb has no less than 8 jets and is very tempermental to debris. If I don't use it, I have to overhaul every year and a half or so. Works just fine..... And it isn't the detergents in the product that clean up the 'varnish' in the carb, it's the petroleum distillates.

Sounds like you've got something partially obstructing a jet in the carb. High idle and bog = lean condition. Just for S&G's, pour some STP gas treatment/carb cleaner in the tank (less than half full if possible). Let it idle 15-20 minutes and then shut it off to soak overnight. Could also be the fuel pump. Just because you're getting fuel doesn't mean you're getting the right pressure or volume. You have to have both.

Anyone? Bueller... Bueller... Bueller.....

I can't remember the years, but the Brat, Turbo Coupe and Wagon all are the same from the front doors forward. Depending on the amount of damage depends on where you cut and weld. The correct way to do it is build a jig that lines up with the two main unibody rails on the undercarriage. You want to extend it forward and up into the engine compartment so that it will line up to where the front cross member bolted up. (I should mention, you need to strip the whole front of the car before you do this...) You set it up with two bolts coming from the bottom of the jig upwards through the cross member/frame holes. This will give you your starting reference. There's a lot more from here. A LOT... The jig is the only way to do it and have everything line up correctly so that it will drive correctly when you are done. It is a major undertaking that you need excellent welding skills, a welder and a sawzall for. The measurements are tricky too.... If you want more, PM me and then you can send me some pics so I can tell you what you're looking at.

Battery, can of carb clean, can of starting fluid, 2 gal, gas. The gas in the tank will probably be going bad, so depending on how much is in there.... Less tank 1/2 tank and a couple gallons should be enough to pep it up. Hook up the battery, crank it over for about 10 - 15 seconds to build oil pressure. If it doesn't start during this phase, pop off the air cleaner cover hold the throttle wide open and spry 3 - 1 second shots of starting fluid in. Release the throttle and start it. If it starts but won't stay running, try starting it 3 or 4 more times. If it still won't stay running, hold the throttle wide open and spry down the primary barrel of the carb. The spray the carb cleaner directly into the ven on the top of the barrel until it starts coming out. Continue spraying for another 3 or 4 seconds. Wait about 20 - 30 min. This usually is enough time for the cleaner to soften up any varnish that may be blocking jets or passages in the carb. A couple more shots of starting fluid after waiting and try to start it again. If you still have the same problem, get it started and keep it running with the starting fluid. If it back fires at ANY time, get the starting fluid the hell out of there!!! It is EXTREMELY flammable and explosive. You only need quick shots every few seconds to keep it running at idle. Don't rev it up over 1500 - 2000 rpm. After a minute, stop using the starting fluid and see if the 'crap' has softened up enough for the engine vacuum to suck it through and allow fuel flow. Let it run a good 10 - 15 minutes before you drive it. This is so you can get it up to temp and make sure it doesn't overheat. The extra starting steps are worst case scenario. It may start right up. I've bought cars that sat for up to 7 years that fired right up, but I've also had cars that sat for only a year that tested my sanity....

Anyone happen to know the actual production date for the '87.5 RX? Is it the same as the XT where it was like actually 12 of '86?

The only way they can warp is if you're using a large scale pressurized system at +300psi. Even then, you'd have to be fairly incompetent and maintain pressure on one spot way longer than necessary to remove the paint/rust. A siphon feed system can't do this as it only runs 100-120psi. I've been blasting in my cabinet for around 12 years now and never warped anything and I've done a lot of aluminum as well. If someone tells you the piece may warp, it's because they are about volume and not paying attention to quality. Not meaning to insult anyone, but just like anything else, there's a right way and a wrong way to sandblast.

Then the regulator is bad an needs to be replaced (the alternator).

Define 'up and down'. As previously discussed on the board, fluctuation of these alternators is normal as they are fundamentally weak. Also, older gauges are not as accurate, so it may say 10v, but it's actually12v. Best thing to do is test with a voltmeter at the battery while running. Change the RPMs and see what the actual change is on the meter and see how that compares to the gauge. If you get wild fluctuations (more than say 4 volts difference) then take the alternator back and have them check it. Check your engine to body and battery to body grounds and make sure they are tight and clean. I also remember something about bad grounds behind the IP. Finally, your gauge could actually be going bad.

Correct, you'll need the donor exhaust 'Y' pipe, the ECM and harness for it, airbox/ductwork and I believe you can use the spider intake. Something with the TPS (throttle position sensor) has to be rewired IIRC from what I've seen here. Something to do with the throttle stop portion of the sensor that tells the car when it's at idle.

Go to JC Whitney and look through their Jeep and 4wd section for body parts. I don't remember which one it is, but you'll want the kind that would slip over a pinch weld, like door weather stripping. You then install the groove of the stripping over the edge of the topper with the seal facing in. Voila! I would also get some mylar and put it on the body where the seal contacts it or it will wear the paint.....

Right there with ya. My 95 3/4 ton Chev got one brake job after I bought it... 9 years and 40K + miles ago. I used premium Napa pads, turned the rotors and lubed everything. 40K? No big deal you say? The only thing I use the truck for is hauling a load, towing the car trailer or my boat/snowmobiles/Brat and when any one of those three is behind it, 90% of the time the camper is also on it. My point? Same as GD's. I downshift and pay attention to distances. I drive like a madman, ask anyone who's ridden with me and didn't need psychiatric care afterwards, but I keep my foot off the pedal as much as possible. I agree that dealer rotors are the best, but did you know there are only a handful of factories that produce brake pads? Top of the line Napa or Schmucks pads are just as good as factory at 1/2 the price. I work for GM and would never spend the money on their pads. Flip side of that is that I would pay what they want for a fuel pump (in tank). Too many times have I replaced someones pump at work or on the side because they bought aftermarket. There are good parts and bad parts. Unfortunately, you never know what you have until after it's on the car. I've bought both dealer and aftermarket parts that were bad right out of the box.