skishop69

I agree with you on the shops selling unnecessary parts such as rotors and calipers. However, the most common cause of warped rotors is not overtorquing lug nuts. It is riding the brakes or hard braking. It takes an impact gun set to over 300ftlbs to warp a rotor. You'd have to be pretty incompetent to run a lug nut down that tight.

Yes, it can be done with only a single filament bulb and two relays. You need a normally closed relay to power it so it's on all the time. You take the second relay hooked to the turn signal output and use it to control the main relay. Actually, I believe you can get a DPDT NC relay and just do it with one.... If you want a schematic, PM me and I'll draw one up. Addendum.... Now that I think about it, it could be done with one relay as long as it was a TPDT....

Yep, refer back to my first post and follow the steps. Way too high a drain.

Anytime you get a glowing turbo, downpipe or cat, it's because you're running too rich and dumping raw fuel into that component. Suspect that #3 injector....

Yep. Sounds like one or more pistons is froze up. When the y sit, depending on conditions, the rings can rust to the cylinder wall. STOP trying to rock it or start it or you will bust the rings. Go to NAPA and get some PB Blaster. This will work the best, as it contains magnetically charged particles that will help it's penetrating oil creep up to the tops of the rings. Pull the plugs and spray a good 30 seconds into each cylinder. Repeat that process until the can is empty. Let it soak 24 hours the try to turn it over BY HAND from the front pulley with a ratchet or wrench in a back and forth motion (leave the plugs out for all of this). If you get it loose, turn it over at least a dozen times by hand, then go ahead and crank it over 3 or 4 times for 10 - 15 seconds each. This will clean most of the penetrating oil and any other crap out of the cylinders. Put the plugs in and change the oil. It's now full of debris and penetrant. Fire it up and let it run at idle for at least 15 minutes before you rev it up. It all seems excessive, but it really reduces the chance of internal damage.

I don't have access to the schematics for the Loyale, but the Legacy system is almost identical. In looking at the schematics and the way the control module reads the limit switch, yes, if the limit switch is either bad or stuck, the module will not power up the motor. Unfortunately, the switch is integral to the rail assembly. I imagine you could get a look at it and it might be possible to remove it, but I doubt it. It would be in the rear half of the rail behind the B pillar trim. You could jumper it for testing ONLY. You can't bypass it, because it's what tells the motor when to stop at top and bottom of travel. It's going to be a small micro switch with a little metal arm that contacts the actual switch. The arm could be bent or broken, or the switch stuck. If it's stuck, you could try a small screwdriver and electrical parts cleaner/lubricator to work it free. If it is removable, you can order a replacement from Radio Smack or some other online electronics supplier.

+1 The maximum draw you should see should be no more than 20-30 mili-amps. Even with a stereo/ clock, it shouldn't be much higher. 50-100 will kill a battery in a few days, over 100 will kill it in 24 hours. If it's more that that, start by unbolting the battery wire from the alternator and recheck the draw. If it's the same, go to the fuse block and take the fuses out one at a time, checking the draw EACH time you pull a fuse. When the draw stops, see what items the fuse powers and then you'll have a better idea of the cause.

Yes, there is a sensor for the belt that turns the light off when it's all the way back/up. If it's in that position and the light is on, the switch is bad. You say you can move the assembly by hand? If that's the case, the whole thing is toast. The way these things are set up, you can't move it by hand. Kind of a bummer. To see if you can replace the auto belts with standard, you will have to take the B pillar trim off that side and see if there is a threaded bolt whole up by the roof line. If there is, you're in business as that's where the upper section of the shoulder harness bolts. If not, you're kind of stuck for a couple of reasons. You can't just drill a hole and stick in a bolt. Strength/rigidity of the mounting area would not be the same as factory and therefore not nearly as safe. Secondly, the car came with shoulder belts so it has to have them if someone is riding in the seat. Thank the NHTSA and DOT. You could be pulled over and ticketed for the violation, though I doubt any cop would actually ticket you for it. Add to that that with lap belts only, the risk for serious head injury in a moderate to severe crash increases drastically. I suppose you could tack weld a nut to the back side of say, 1/8" plate steel, drill the hole in the B pillar and then stitch weld the plate in place. It'd be stronger than just drilling a hole and bolting.

It's your rig, but I've been at this game since I was 8, and I'm telling you that you don't want to use all thread on exhaust. You want (near) future problems, be my guest.....

You've got a coil, ground or disty problem. You're getting spark, but after it heats up and whatever it is goes to hell, it's too weak to do any good. When it does this hot (won't start) pull a plug and watch the color of the spark with someone cranking it. It should be an orangish color. White or blue spark is too weak. Check the connections on the coil and disty, grounds from the battery to block and body. Most likely, it's the coil getting weak. Could be the condensor/ignitor too.

Well, if someone hogged out the holes larger that 7/16", you're to big to coil it. Your best bet at this point is to drill the other two stud bosses on each head to the correct size for a 10x1.25 helicoil, install the coil into the fresh hole. DO NOT drill and install the stud by itself without the coil. It'll just pull out later anyways. DO NOT use all thread for anything exhaust. It's not strong enough. After you've got the studs in, you'll have to cut the Y-pipe flange off each side, rotate it 90 degrees and weld it back on. Use stainless steel nuts with lock washers. It won't come loose, and it won't be frozen next time you need to take it off.

There is nothing 'delicate' about the area. Two reasons for the warning. 1) (for sure) To prevent injury or damage by placing items on the floor with the seat bottom up. 2) (possibly) Should the floor get hot (exhaust?) there could be a fire hazzard. This one is VERY unlikely. I myself would do it. The reason for the majority of warnings on vehicles is to protect stupid people from themselves and the company from assanine law suits. Just use common sense.

It shouldn't be a bolt, it should be a stud. Bolts tend to rip the threads out due to the turning pulling force whereas studs stay in place and just pull. I believe the thread size is 10X1.25. Go to Napa and buy the kit. It will have the tap and coils and instructions on what size hole to drill. I would recommend using stainless steel studs to avoid future install and removal issues. I use stainless on all my exhaust systems.

IF you run it on a regular basis. One 5 gallon run will not hurt it in any way. Like I said, I ran it for at least 3 0r 4000 miles of offroad time in the Brats and never had a CAT or smog issue. I'm not trying to be an rump roast here, but this subject is one I have extensive experience and first hand knowledge of. Using E85 is far more destructive than LL101

Correct on the LL101 being blue. Incorrect for the other chaps friend on the lead content. The lead content is non existent, hence the outdated terminology of low lead... You go in with a 5 gallon can and top it off. Run the car down to 'E' at your own home and add the five gallons of 101. There is NO WAY it is going to ruin your CAT. I used to run LL101 in both my first Brats and up the timing 8 degrees when we would take them out to the sand dunes. No one is going to 'bust' you for running the 101. There isn't even an agency set up to monitor that on the roadways.... Now back to ethanol..... True ethanol is used as an oxygenator, however the main reason it is employed is to raise the octane rating during winter due to the colder, more dense air to stop detonation. It is also added to help absorb moisture from the air and keep it from separating in your fuel and causing runability issues. Now, to straighten out E10 and E85. Standard pump gasoline has up to 10% ethanol in it. This amount is in no way going to have an adverse effect on fuel system components and will have a minute reduction on your fuel mileage. E85 is 85% ethanol. HUGE difference! I will say it again... YOU CAN NOT RUN E85 FUEL IN AN OLDER VEHICLE WITHOUT DAMAGING FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS. That level of ethanol will quickly deteriorate your fuel lines, internal carbuerator parts, older injectors and fuel pump. It also takes serious retuning to get the maximum power out of it's reduced BTU rating. Newer vehicles run stainless steel fuel lines or lines with specially developed polymers to stand up to the ethanol. The system has to monitor the O2 readings and constantly adjust (at a rate of hundreds of times per second) timing, injector pulse width, fuel pressure and to sample the fuel to determine the actual ethanol percentage as it does vary quite a bit. Saying that running E85 you're not just going to burst into flames is like saying "I can kill and elephant with a .22" The degredation of the components at that level of ethanol is very rapid. I'm federally certified for emissions, I'm the E85 tech at the dealer and I've participated in several field tests of the use of E85 in vehicles. I've seen what can happen to older vehicles when you use it. You want to take that slim chance that you might be the weenie at the roast, your call. True that diluting gas with 1 gallon of E85 will most likely not cause any major damage, HOWEVER... since most of us don't have x-ray vision and can't see the internal condition of fuel lines, carbs, injectors and fuel pumps, I say be VERY careful with this. In a controlled environment it's still dangerous, but easily managed. Out on the road in the real world, the wrong combination of circumstances leads to a 30 second inferno. Sorry if I'm being over dramatic, but I've seen it firsthand. E85 damages components in older cars. PERIOD. End of story. Levels above 10% in gasoline are going to cause slower degredation of components in older cars and eventually failures.

I know I posted this somewhere before (search E85), but you can't run E85 in older vehicles. At all.... Even diluting it is not a good idea. Ethanol eats rubber and older generations of plastics for lunch. Not to mention, it's not going to have a reduction effect on your CO output. In fact, because of it's lower BTU rating and not having the engine tuned for it, CO will be worse. Excessive CO is 'usually' caused by being too rich or burning oil (bad valve seals, rings...) Pull the air filter completely, run premium and advance the timing about 6 degrees to start with. If you're trying to pass emissions, this will also work. Go down to the Broomfield airport and get some low lead 101. That's what it used to be called. It's oxygenated 101 octane. The extra oxygen in the fuel will reduce CO. % gallons straight is all you'll need and it won't hurt anything. I've done this many times myself.

I doubt it is terminal. Is it stuck in 4 hi or 4 lo? Are all of your tires the same size? I would first try jacking it up so you get all 4 tires off the ground. Takes pressure off the drive train. Run it through first and second (engine running) and then into neutral. While it's coasting down, try to take it out of 4wd. If that doesn't work, check all of your links underneath (which you really should do first. My bad...) to make sure something isn't hitting or snagging. Try prying directly on the link to get it out. If it is something internal, it's not a big deal, the 4wd housing is easy to remove and parts are readily available. The only thing is, you're going to have to get it out of 4wd one way or another to get the housing off.

Ram Engines here in the states makes forged high comp pistons for them. Check their web site.

Yes and no. Some things will be the same, some will not. You will need both diagrams to install it correctly, both harness' and the ECU. If you don't have the harness from the EA82T engine, you're going to have to modify yours. Also be aware you are opening a can of worms with the EA82T. Turbo issues, overheating issues and head cracking issues (if they aren't already). Don't get me wrong, my XT had the same engine and it was fun, but after all the hassels (most caused by my driving style), I've gone to the EJ22 swap. STILL haven't completed it, but I've only myself to blame for not putting in more time....

You're not going to find an external regulator because it doesn't have one. Check the grounds. If they're good, check the voltage at the ignition sw. This isn't a charging system issue.

The switch to E85 is a bust. Not worth your time. Ethanol has less energy per molecule than gas, therefore, less power and mileage per identical unit of volume. All octane rating is, is the resistance of the fuel to detonation due to compression prior to the ignition event. Higher octane, DOES NOT mean more power. It means you can crank up your compression or boost to add more fuel for more power. On top of that, you will have to remove every rubber component from the fuel system as ethanol eats rubber for breakfast. Everything has to be steel and silicone. Pressure and volume have to be increased to make up for the loss of BTUs in ethanol. You then have the problem of tweeking the system to get the O2 readings correct for the AFR. I don't know of anyone who has figured out how to reprogram old Subie ECUs. And last, once you convert to E85, it's all you can run unless you convert everything back. It takes sophisticated software and hardware to constantly check fuel samples several hundred times per second to know what fuel has been put in it and then adjust timing, injector pulse width, cam timing or EGR and several other factors. Yes, you could do the conversion without hacking the ECU, but all that gains you is lost power and diminished fuel economy. The car just isn't technologically advanced enough to take advantage of the minimal advantages of E85. Because of the lower BTUs, you use more E85, so the lower cost is a wash.

Sounds like a bad ground to me. Check the ground to the engine and body, and if you don't find anything obvious, add a ground from the negative bat post to the nearest body bolt. Be sure to clean the area around the bolt so you have some clean, exposed metal for a good ground.

+1 for the diodes being bad. If they are, you'll still have voltage, just no current. Did they load test it at NAPA, or just spin it up and check for voltage? The alt wire runs from the alt to the main harness by the left fender, then around under the radiator and back up by the battery. A couple quick tests with a load tester and ohms check with a meter could tell you if you have a sort or weak alternator.

I'd have to look at my wiring for sure, but it sounds like either the charge wire from the alt has rubbed against something, or the wire from the starter to the fuse block is rubbed through/grounded out. Something like that would cause the alternator to see drain and over charge. If the battery went dead while you were driving and the gauge read 16-18 volts, then the power is not getting from the alt to the battery. It's really something that I'd need to look at. If you were in the south Seattle are, I'd volunteer to look it over.

I've got the harness and ECM still in the car with the engine. You're welcome to come up to Puyallup and pull it all. Just remember, it needs HGs. The EJ swap is definitely the way to go, but if you don't have the cash, it makes it tough. Let me know what you want to do with this. I need to get rid of the car in the next few weeks.