skishop69

"i need a beer for even posting something so ridiculous you are wasting time as this is all covered in the owners manual." Well, I think you had plenty of beer before replying. Not to mention, we Brat owners are aware of the t-torx anyway, so again to quote.... "i need a beer for even posting something so ridiculous you are wasting time as this is all covered in the owners manual." Why is it someone is always getting pissy about something that is usually insignificant in the grand scheme of things. I'm guilty too, but I usually go off AFTER someone has tweaked my nuggets.... BTW, good job on the brackets Jon!

Thank you GD!!!!!! Someone who knows you don't add sealant of ANY KIND to factory gaskets. I get so tired of cars coming into the shop where somebody used blue or orange rtv on a water pump, valve cover gaskets or worse yet, on silicone or neoprene gaskets. If it didn't come from the factory that way, DON'T DO IT!!!. Not chewing anyone here out, it's just my pet peeve. Sorry to jack the thread.......

They were welded in place at the factory. Quick release can be done by retrofitting hinges and hook pockets from any GM with removeable rear seats starting with the mid 80's Suburban 3rd row. You'll need some fabbing skills to do it, but it's not bad. The other way is a piece of 4"x4"x1/4" plate steel drilled and tapped for the appropriate sized bolt. Put the seats where you want them and drill in 4 places through the mounting frame and down through the bed. Put the plates on the underside of the bed and run the bolts through tightening them to the plates you drilled and then stitch weld the plates in place. Four bolts and they're out with no help. I've dome it both ways. I prefer the bolts. Less fabbing. And use grade 8 bolts with plenty of anti seize....

Go with GD's advice, but when you chop the muffler, size the remaining pipe up to 2 1/2" or 3" and that will give you that deeper tone you're looking for.

If you want to get rid of the oil smell, here's the trick... Go to Home Depot or Ace or some such place. Get a few shor lengths of 3/4" or 1" angle iron, a small piece of sheet metal to cover the area the oil is hitting and a few large band clamps (extra lg hose clamps). Place the angle iron on the exhaust as a spacer and put the sheet metal on that. You hay need a hacksaw and tin snips to trim things. Form the sheet metal around the exhaust and angle iron and secure it with the band clamps. Voila! Instant heat/oil shield! Yes, I had to do this on a road trip with my Suburban...

I've done it a couple of times myself with no problem, though I find it quicker to do one side at a time save for driving out the roll pin.

EE20 + EA82MT = zzz:Flame:

Having been down this road before from both sides, the only way you're going to find out where it is or get it back is to report it stolen. You tell them you sold it to a guy who was supposed to pay you and didn't. He sold it to someone else and you have no idea where he is, the other guy or the car is. If it's been scrapped, it'll be in the Oregon DMV search as such. When they find the guy who has it, you tell him you'd be willing to pay him $X and drop the charges. No harm, no foul.

The high top that just came with my '87 is the same way. Doesn't touch the paint at all. I was all kinds o' happy....

+1

I did say to each his own. Everyone has an opinion and that's mine. N'ough said....

"I was going to mention that, but I was being nice :rolleyes:" That was nice. Trying to rice up a vehicle that doesn't fit the mold, genre or profile and ruining a good Brat in the process is sacrilage.. Next thing you know there'll be a big a** 6" tach with the utterly useless shift light and a shopping cart handle in the back of the bed. I'm not a purest, but it's an off road truck, not a ricer... To each their own I guess......

O please tell me you're not planning on putting polished coffee can on a Brat....

You'll have to build a custom trans cross member and shift linkage most likely. The EJs don't have d/r, so you're losing low range. I would imagine the drive line length will have to be modified.

That would depend on the quality of the rack and your SKS. If you have the plastic, carbon fiber or folding stock, then I'd say it'll probably be ok. However, if you're using the original stock, added a bayonet, scope, laser sight, 100 round clip, bipod mount, flash supressor, kitchen sink and garden gnomes, I'd say no. It really depends on the quality of the rack. That one looks sturdy, but until you have it in your hands, you never know if the mounting components are lightweight, cheesy plastic or Chinese pot metal.

It's the wiring. I've ran into this same thing twice. If it's coming out that far, and you can move it around like it's not hung up on anything, that's it. As unnerving as it is, you have to pull harder with even force and the wires will eventually 'unravel' from the knot they're in. The harness gets wadded up in the brackets behind the radio and then that nifty 20+y/o foam they put over it to 'protect' it glues itself together. Don't yank on it, just more and even pressure pulling straight out.

+1 That's what I did with both of my XTs and my Brat. Not a leak to be seen anywhere...

Front clip from PAP: $67 I know because I cut one recently. I agree though, maybe an A pillar and strut tower. I think we need to get a first hand look at it, let Don know what we're offering and let him make the decision. I'd fix it, but then again I love fabbing and I'm a glutton for punishment. As far as HGs on the XT; I can do them, it's just a time issue. Not to mention, I'd have to title it, license and insure it for him to drive. It's kinda ratty but straight and runs good. Just pressurizes the cooling system and gets warm. A year ago I resealed the engine, put in a clutch, radiator, brakes and axles on all 4 corners, belts and a tune-up. If he needs a car, then we move on it. GD, We're offering to get the parts for him and work for free to make sure he gets transportation. Without getting into details, they can't afford a car or to fix this one. This is about getting mobile....

Glad you're ok Don. That was the one you drove up to Scotts with the paddle shifters? If any of my spares were mobile, I'd lend you one to drive. Both need HGs though... There's plenty of parts at the PAP in Tacoma. I was just out there. If True2Blue is serious about doing the repair, I can help you out with time and a little cash to get the necessary parts from PAP. I know how things are for you needing a rig.

Appreciate that. I think I can mod it to work. A little cut and weld... What about the cross member? Is it different?

The cross member is different on PS equipped EA81s? Didn't know that....

It is possible to add power steering and not that difficult from what I understand. I believe there is info here on the board, though when I search for things, I always seem to find everything but what I want. I'm sure GD, Edrach or Gloyale has done or knows how to this. I know EA81 ps pump and rack from a donor car should work, but I think the pump and mount from an EA82 will work too. I don't know if the rack is the same or not. As for the tire size, the only problem there would be your speedo reading slower than you are actually going, but like 5-7mph at 60. I run 185's on my Brat and it's never been an issue. I also think the stock tire size for that was suppose to be 175, not 155, so right now your speedo is reading faster than you are going.

Just a little update. I finished the trade with the guy and brought the Brat home. I ended up paying about 1/2 of the $1500 asking price. I'll try to get some pics up before I put it in storage. I still have a current Brat project I'm working on that won't likely be done until late spring and my dd Brat is purring along nicely. Looks like there might also be a 4th one in the works soon.....

Correct. They will have to be cut from a good donor vehicle. The main unibody 'frame' rails are double walled, so when you weld them together, you have to grind back the outside wall to get to the inside and then do a double or triple pass on the outside. Before you decide to do this, you really need to know the extent of the rust. Has it gotten into the A pillar or the sill plates or the fire wall. If it has, junk it, or weld in a whole front clip.

107 PPM?! Holy crap! I can't remember, it's been a while since I lived in Denver. They still do and idle and then a 2000 rpm test? Did you fail at idle or high rpm? What were the other readings?