skishop69

Too cool!

Thanks. Just hate to crush good parts. The PAP over here has them all the time so getting them is no biggie.

So one of my Brats has already received the swap. I have an 86 Xt Turbo 2wd that is being parted and slated to go bye-bye. I hate to chuck parts I can use, so the question is this... Can I just grab the rear backing plate and caliper, use a front hub and get the correct rotor? IE: Are the front and rear hubs interchangeable? (if they are 4wd)

As long as it was not towed above say 40mph, it should be ok. What happens is the trans pump isn't running so there's no fluid going to the bushings/bearings and as a result the burn up when being towed. I've towed autos father than that (stop and go) and kept the speed down and they were fine.

See, learn something new every day. I never payed attention to the ports.

+1 And you can't use Non turbo heads. Well, You could use the left bank head (I believe it's the same) but the right bank has oil and coolant ports for the turbo. Unless you plan on some pretty creative re-plumbing, it won't happen.

Why yes it is. I found it on CL right after he posted it, spent some time on the phone with him and went out this morning to seal the deal. He has a Corvette that needs work and lucky for both of us, I'm the Corvette tech at work.... As much as I'd still love to eventually buy yours Ed, this one isn't going to require too much for a full resto. I can do everything but the paint and my buddy does custom work and does it hella cheap for me. I'll still end up spending close to what I would have for yours, but this way I get to keep the majority of my funds for now and have the satisfaction of, "I did it!" Woohoo!

Well, I just bought another Brat this morning. Worked out a deal with the guy for some trading. The original price was $1500 so we'll see what it comes to after the trade. It's an '87 with no rust through and in really great shape! Sorry about the double post. Something went wrong. Please delete the other...

Well, I'm down in Puyallup and can do them if you can get it here. It would be a good learning experience for you if you're unsure about things like this. Ski

+1 The 4th gear blocking ring is wearing out so when the synchro sleeve (the actual part that is 'shifting' inside the trans hits it, it doesn't have the ability it used to to slow down the gear to mesh. The blocking ring rides on a polished chamfered surface that is part of the gear. It has grooves in it and is designed to reduce the gearset speed for the shift. Like GD said, it will eventually tear up the dogs on the gear and that'll be all she wrote. It is repairable and fairly easy, but unless you have a dead donor trans, it's way cheaper to get another one and drop it in. The parts would be as much as the used trans (if you get it at a PAP or from a member).

A few things come to mind. The leaky injector you know of. Could be leaking badly when shut off and it could do that over a period of time. Second, burnt rings (it is, after all a turbo...) It's possible he doesn't know what he's talking about as far as it being gas. Maybe someone overfilled the oil because they were interrupted during an oil change and forgot to drain it. I've seen it happen. Drain the oil and put some in a soup can. If it's got that much gas in it, it will burn when lit. :Flame:Be sure to do this OUTSIDE. Last, the infamous head gasket... Maybe you don't know there is coolant at the bottom of that there oil... Again, the drain and examine tactic. There is also the remote possibilty that someone did it on purpose to screw with the guy. Just sayin'....

I'm not sure on this, but I believe the require power to close as well. One side of the switch would be positive/negative, and the other would have to be negative/positive. It would require a double pole, triple throw switch. That is, providing that door operates as most headlamp doors.....

And again, it failed, was never attempted again and no follow up on the failure. Therefore of no use other than a stepping stone.... Getting bent over this does no one any good. I'm not being rude or critical of your skill or attempt. Anything could have caused the failure and no one can say whether or not you did the same build as the tech who built Beefy's trans. Too many variables.

Agreed... Something went wrong with your build. The thing about gears is you can't just run around willy-nilly interchanging without using marking paint to make sure the heel and toe (drive and coast) paint patterns very closely match the actual wear patterns on both of the used gears. It's unfortunate it failed since you were on the right path, but you never found out why or built another and neither did anyone else. Beefy's got 260K + on his. Proof of the pudding is worth paying....

Quote: "Wow, I wasn't trying to frustrate anyone here, just stating why there might not be anyone wanting to do this, so just calm down man" :Flame:Calm down? CALM down?! CALM DOWN?! JK... LOL I didn't mean for it to sound personal. What the gist was is that I was frustrated with the situation in general. I know things are tight for you as we discussed at Scott's. I guess I just don't want this to go off track again after so many years. You know from having worked with me that I possess the skill to do something like this, but I just don't have the time what with work, running my shop on the side and trying to catch up on house projects. Like Beefy said, he's not taking any money until the write up is ready and all donations are anonymous (aside from mine) so no one has to feel obligated to a certain amount.

To quote a famous British comedy troupe... "Let's not bicker about who killed who...." I see both sides of this and agree with both sides on certain points. In most cases, all of us are happy to share what we've done and learned here on the site. This particular instance is different in that he did not build the trans himself. He paid to have it built, then again to have it removed and torn down to gain the information. I'd say 260K plus miles states a lot about the build. Beefy is right about the length of time this has been going on. I've followed the original thread and it's really been a disaster as far as people jumping on board with barter, time or money. A lot of people offered, very few came through. The you have the others who have already converted their trans to 411 so why bother. To those I say, Post your How To. Get with Beefy and compare notes. Did you do the same thing? Something different? Is one better than the other. We need to help each other and back each other when possible. If you can donate, great. If you can't, don't. What we don't need is pointless bickering. I'm sure I'm not the only person to notice that posting and visits have been way down in the past year. I am a serious proponent of voicing opinion, but the thread wasn't started to discuss whether or not you should or shouldn't donate. Now I'm so frustrated I've lost my train of thought.

If you get what is in the picture, it's the right one. I have one on the floor in the shop and it's identical to what's in the pic. Damn good price too.....

As far as the 'high' oil pressure, it could very well be correct. I've tested mine with my mechanical gauge, and on cold start up and high rpm cruise, I'm pushing 70psi. You do need to see if there's a lower pressure issue just to be safe. Rule of thumb is a minimum of 7psi per 1000 rpm before engine damage PROVIDING you are not pounding on the engine. Mine idles at around 35psi.

That's just a deflector, not a spoiler. It will reduce dust/dirt and rain on your back window due to the downdraft created. It's not going to have any (minimal) effect on drag or performance. I'd keep it. I've had them on a couple of my Brat toppers and a few other cars. Worked for me.... PS: Who's nifty Jeep in the garage???

I phrased it that way for a couple of reasons. I just don't want to be the only one footing this. I know money is tight people, but even $10 or $20 here and there would show Beefy we're serious. If he comes up with a general figure, and we get some guys to put up their money, I'm in. I just don't want to fork over the money, have no one else jump in, then end up with my money back, no write up and no trans. The no trans part would be very disappointing for me. I think this is a great idea and I would be willing to build these for people who wouldn't be able to do it themselves. I think Beefy was right, start a thread with a sticky for donations....

They are expensive, but SPEC makes EA81 ans 82 racing clutches in different levels. 30%-50% more clamping force. I think they start around $300 and go up to $400. I picked on up for my XT on the EJ conversion. http://www.ultrarev.com

My bad... I'm not familiar with those types, but several others have a small paper clip sized hole at the base of the head rest shaft on one or both sides (in the plastic ring/busing on top of the seat cover). If it has a hole, insert a small pick or drill bit/etc, push in on it and down on the head rest. If not, BFH!

Are we talking jump seats or interior seats? Did I have a Polish moment?

Push the little lever on the side behind the head rest and it should slide up and down the rail. There are several 'detent' squares cut in the side of the rail that lever locks into. If you can slide it, hose it down with penetrating oil....