skishop69

Sent you a PM. If it's the right year, there are a couple other minor things I'd like. Cluster and trim, radio console and that stupid little cover piece in the floor by the passenger seat. Mine is in the middle of a field somewhere in eastern Wa....

T-tops and square or rectangular headlamps are Gen 2. Round headlamps are Gen1. Minor damage is ok, but I need the gate release to work. If you can send pics if you find the right one, that'd be great. I've got a buddy in Coeur de Alene who might be able to arrange a pick up....

Well, the heads are definitely rebuildable. Hot tank them and they'll clean right up. As far as the torque converter, you only have two options. One, force the engine to turn over if possible. Two, since you don't care about the case, get your safety glasses on and your 3lb hand sledge out and bust the bell housing. You can't slit the case because there are bolts on the back. I hate to recommend destruction of a case, but.....

Mine is bowed and the release is broken. Been that way since I bought it. Haven't been able to locate one, so if someone in the greater PNW area has one they want to sell, let me know. Thanks!

GD is right, don't bother. That engine was ran with either cheap oil or the older formula Penzoil and abused with little or no oil changes. Years ago I had an Olds 307 I had to rebuild for a guy and he just swore up and down his wife always changed the oil, so he didn't understand why the bearings were shot. Both oil drain back holes in the heads were plugged, there was 3/4" of sludge in the lifter valley and the #6 rod journal was 1/4" smaller that it should have been because she drove it for TWO WEEKS while it was "making a funny noise". Unfortunately there are uneducated/lazy/ignorant people out there and what you have is the result. Sad.....

Yep, the PAP on Steel Street in Tacoma, and Rob is correct. I got them towards the end of the day and the guy wasn't overly concerned. Hell, I also got a sunroof assembly for my S/O's Daewoo (don't say a word....) for $12. But yes, I have noticed both from here and dealing with PAP, the prices are all over the place. I'll also share this... Act like you go there a lot (not in a uppity way), try to remember their names, joke around with them and be casual. People respond. I've been doing business with yards around here for 15 years and almost every time I go into a new place, I listen for names or tell them I talked to so and so and BS with them and I get better deals. Doesn't work all the time, but I would say 80-90% it does.

$100 total. Trans, flywheel, clutch, cross member and drive line.

No, you shouldn't have to re-shim. If you have play in the pinion, it's just a worn bearing. If it were a case issue, you would have other issues. Some play (very little) in the pinion is normal. Anything more than slight movement is no bueno!

So I was out at PAP last week looking for something when I see the have a sh*tload of 'new' Subies in. A lot of Loyale/Legacy wagons, a couple of EA81 wagons and even an '84 Turbo Coupe like mine! (might have to snag some parts...) Anywhoo... The had 1 '88 wagon with a 5spd d/r all the parts were there and someone had been kind enough to pull the drive line (and left it), rear diff, one front axle and the starter for me! I went out this morning and pulled the trans, cross member and flywheel. As a bonus, I discovered the clutch is almost brand new! Best part? It only cost $100! Now I can do the swap in the Brat and finally have the reason/motvation to put my rear discs on as well...

If tightening the bearing doesn't help, or if the bearing itself isn't bad, the noise you are describing sounds like a ring and pinion problem. If you have play in the pinion bearing or either side bearing on the differential carrier, you will get a whine. When you accelerate or load it, you're putting pressure on the drive side of the gear teeth and either the pinion or carrier is shifting out of place. When you let off the gas, the gears ride on the coast side of the teeth and the pinion and carrier return to their 'neutral' position. It only takes a few thousandths of play to cause this and will eventually lead to mayhem.

You don't want to 're-tap' the exhaust stud holes. You want to use a helicoil. Drill down as far as the original hole and use the tap from the kit. The coils are way stronger than the aluminum. What do you mean charging it (AC) didn't do anything? Didn't take the charge? Compressor doesn't come on? Not cold? You shouldn't see bubbles in a properly evac'd and charged system. At least not a lot. As for the trailing arm, replace it if you can. If not, any straightening method will weaken it. Probably not enough to be an issue. Heat and bend is the easiest. As far as I know, Brat tail lights are unique and not interchangeable with other rigs.

I stole mine 6 years ago for $1200. It was cosmetically challenged, but easily rectified. I cleaned the carpets, had my buddy recover the seats and resealed the engine. Had a guy offer me $3000 for it last 4th of July when we were cruisin around the woods (FS-7020). I've fought the insurance companies before on stuff like this. You're going to have to write up a very good fact based eval. They will only change the price with included hard evidence. Your best bet will be the Evil Bay sales you've been recording. You pay and pay and pay these *sses and when it comes time to collect what's due, you get to take it up the tailpipe with no dinner or good night kiss!

I believe the 14mm bolt he is referring to is the knuckle to strut clamping bolt, and it does not have to be removed to do what he wants. As far as the ball joint.... Make sure your tie rod is off. Remove the nut (leave it on just a few turns), turn the steering so the tie rod is all the way out. Hit the knuckle portion of the mount with a large hammer, and but some muscle behind it. This will pop the tie rod out. Remove it the tie rod from the knuckle. Now you can take the same hammer and hit the lower control arm where the ball joint goes through. Doesn't damage the ball joint or cause any structural damage to the control arm. It will most likely take several good blows to free it. No pickle fork required (save it for the serving line ).

Yeah, I see what you mean and agree that for the Subie purposes it is easier. Well then, I guess I'm crapped out if I want an LCD with d/r. I guess it really wouldn't make much difference in wheelin' anyways. It was one of those what if thoughts.... Five minutes after this post.... Egads!!! Where was my brain on that one!? The LCD wouldn't affect wheeling at all. Just street driving. Wouldn't really serve any purpose... Sorry, Polish moment.... :-\

Interesting. I did not know the low range was created on the input shaft. Makes sense though. No t-case? The factory manuals and techs would beg to differ. 4wd is accomplished in the section between the main case and the tailshaft. Since it's only function is to transfer power to the rear wheels when engaged, it is by definition a t-case, just not conventional. As for the rest, I stated LCD, NOT LSD and I had surmised the axle issue and edrach confirmed it. I guess I'll just have to tear down a 5spd d/r and my AWD LCD and see what I can do....

Pulling oil past the guides is a common misconception for blue smoke on a coast down. Worn guides will (90% of the time) cause valve seating issues and an unstable idle. You can have bad valve seals that can cause the problem in combination with slightly worn guides, but this usually results in only a small amount of smoke for a short time. I would tend to agree with the worn rings. Only the oil rings need to be worn (excessively) for this to happen. They wear down, the oil then bypasses the 'scraper' portion of the oil ring and finds its way around the compression rings. Matter of fact, they don't even need to be worn. If you let it sit for long periods, they can stick and cause the same problem. I have the same thing going on with my Brat. I have down a leakdown and compression test. The compression test was a little low but not unexpected as she's pushing 200K. I checked the stem fit and replaced the seals as well, but to no avail. The more I drive it, the less it does it. As far as your SES light, the most probable answer is that the burning oil is creating a rich condition that is setting the O2 code. You did say it comes on after the coast down and a little driving. JMTC

Because they didn't come with the seats

No, I have the rear seat belts as well and since the RCW reads "passengers must use all available seat belts" it doesn't matter if there's a seat open in the front if the rears have belts. I've done my research and printed the RCW. I'll be ready.....

Well, I have the Brat licensed, insure and clean so I'm taking it out with the kids tonight to cruise around Puyallup. Since our law enforcement agencies are so wonderful, I expect to be pulled over by the first cop that sees us for the kids being in the back. I know I can get out of the ticket since it was built to DOT regulations and shipped to the US that way, not to mention the DMV registered it as a passenger vehicle (they actually asked me if it was a car or truck. Of course I said car... lol) I know others have had this problem and was just wondering if they got a ticket and the outcome.

That's a good idea. Especially if putting the d/r t case on the full time LCD tarns from the XT6 will work. Anyone with info on that? Anyone.... Bueller... Bueller... Beuller...

So what's the snag with the front? I have a whole XT6 here so parts aren't an issue...

Ok, so I did some searching (which I am normally good at, but seem to always draw a zip here) and didn't find what I was looking for. I know you can do the rear disc conversion, and I have the parts already. Since the parts are similar from the 5 lug set ups, can you swap 5 lugs onto an '84? The only thing I could see as an issue would be the axle splines being different. Anything else that would be different, I could fab. Secondly, is it possible to remove the 't case' from an XT6 full time LCD trans and bolt up a DR t case? After 6 years, I finally got the title for my Brat and now I'm comfortable to start modding instead of pummeling... I have plans, but I'm not going to go hog wild until I get the EJ22+t dropped into the XT GL10. I have everything for that including a Subie AWIC, but the hold up there has been a strong enough clutch which I have located and will order next week. For the Brat, I plan on a 4" lift, ER27 ('cause I have a couple laying around...) and the 5spd LCD DR combo (hopefully). If the 5 lug swap doesn't fly, then the rear disc swap and redrill to 6 lug. The economy being what it is, it's been tough to squirrel away parts and cash for these projects, but I'm close. Ski

I didn't answer that right. I want to swap a Legacy hydro clutch into the XT. I prefer the hydro clutch pedal resistance and feel over cable. The issue is not running a strong enough clutch, it's that when you step up to a pressure plate with a higher clamping force, you increase the amount of pressure applied to the pedal to release. I've been down this road too many times with other vehicles and I don't care for the extra work on a daily driver. The only clutch this doesn't happen with is a Centerforce. Their setup actually requires less pedal pressure because of the centrifugal force of the weights on the edge of the diaphragm. As it spins up, the weights pull back on the diaphragm increasing the clamping pressure. Alas, Centerforce does not make this type of clutch for the EA's due to space constraints. They do make a 'regular' clutch, but for the money, a SPEC is better. All I want is less work at the clutch pedal. I know I can put a hydro clutch on it as fabrication is no problem for me. I was just wondering who has done it and looking for pointers.

I want to put a hydro clutch in my XT with the original full time tranny.

I'm a little slow today.... Long week..... Where would that be?