skishop69

So I'm almost ready to dump the EJ22 + turbo (not EJ22t) into my XT GL10 and I found an EA82T clutch from SPEC that will handle the new engine. It was the last thing I needed for the swap. I'm going to swap to a hydraulic system as I'm sure it's been done. I've tried different keyword searches, but to no avail... Can anyone tell me what I'm getting into? I know I need the master, slave, lines and I believe a hydraulic clutch fork as the cable one won't work. Probably have to mod the pedal as well. Ski

Hate to disagree here, but the signal for the tach comes 'off' of the coil, however, it actually comes from the distributor. The distributor pulses (in this case grounding out) that are sent to the coil are read and displayed by the tach. You'll have a tach reading with a bad coil UNLESS... by some 1 in a billion chance the thing managed to melt down and ground through the outter casing, in which case, you won't have an intermittent problem. It's lights out!

You are correct. The right head is different due to the oil and coolant lines for the turbo.

Qman (Steve) got it. Thanks everyone.

Yes this is off topic, but I wanted to give the best shot to members. I have a 10 year old Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) 150amp mig welder that gave up the ghost a while back. It has power in and out of all the switches, but when you pull the trigger, the wire feeds out and you get a small spark. I don't know if it's transformer related, the control board or what. I wrangled a new 190amp welder, so I don't care. Parts are still available and I have the manual. The grounding clamp needs to be reattached and it needs a power cord. I kept that, because it was a 30ft cord I had made. It will do up to .030 wire in 1lb or 10lb spools, flux core or gas (no bottle, I kept that too.. duh) and weld up to 1/4 steel with one pass. I built three car haulers, two boat trailers, five utility trailers, two tow bars and used it for lord knows how many other projects. When working, it goes like hell. It's now ugly, old, I don't know what the cost of repair is though I'm sure it's cheaper than a new welder and most of us can't afford to buy a new, or even a decent used welder. First person to EMAIL me from the Seattle area and can be here this Saturday to pick it up, gets it. Otherwise, it's craigslist and gone. I've got way too much clutter in my shop. skishop2@yahoo.com Ski PS. My apolgies to anyone offended by posting it here.

Allrighty.... Well, I've been off the board awhile 'cause the XT was down, haven't touched the turbo coupe and haven't done anything with the Brat except use it for camping. So, after the rebuilding of the sunroof in my 87.5 XT GL10 (unicorn) I got to drive it twice before it lost a rod. Second time, same cylinder, brand new crank and rods. Wasn't happy. Decided I was done with E18's. For the last year, I've been piecing everything together for an EJ22 swap and I spent less than $500 to do it. I now have everything to do it. Not just a standard swap... NA EJ22 with a turbo add on that will run 6-8lbs of boost, a knock light, a 16 pass oil cooler with AN8 fittings to match the adapter, a stock Subie AWIC set up that will also cool the turbo instead of using the engine to do it (and I just snagged another AWIC off Evil Bay today) All new plumbing for the intercooler, bigger injectors, boost controller with built in timer, nitrous shot controller at 0psi (still deciding on whether or not to use THAT feature ) and another 12v controlled output for whatever... Got a 4 gauge pillar pod, AFR, EGT, oil temp and pressure guages. A new Pioneer USB/bluetooth deck, speakers and amps. It's amazing the things you can barter for! Lucky for me, I didn't get a chance to install all the interior trim after the sunroof escapade. Still looking for an LSD 3.70 diff, but it's gonna run without it. Someone was kind enough to lend me their completed wiring harness to speed up building mine, so once I'm done with that, I start assembling! Should be in the next couple of weeks...

WEAR?! I'm not talking about using 5 cans of the stuff! lol The wear on a serp pulley over the life of the vehicle (about 120K or so) is less than 1mm. Yes there are many variables that affect that, but the overall effect of using that trick is nill to nothing on the pulley.

Try this... It's old school but we use it at the dealership with about 50/50 results and it's not dangerous. Take some Ajax or Comet and put some in your hand. With the engine OFF put it on 2 - 3 different spots inside and outside of the belt then fire up the engine. That's it. It does the work.

Just curious if anyone here has a pinout for the two engine harness connectors on the EJ22? I'm working on the swap for my XT GL10 and have come to the conclusion that Subaru schematics and pinouts are absolutely the worst I have ever encountered. The schematics really aren't so bad, but the pinouts for anything that is NOT a component are non-existant. I can just pull the engine sensor/component connectors and continuity test them back to the two main connectors, but I'm hoping someone has the pinout. Thanks!

Anyone? Bueller.... Bueller.......

Long story short..... I live in Seattle. My girlfriend lives in Portland. Right now, her mother is taking care of her daughter and only has one vehicle. It's a 93 Chev Corsica (don't laugh too hard.....) 3.1l. I was down there today to visit and check out an overheat prob. The waterpump is leaking. I have already purchased pump and coolant, but was unable to install it due to the fact I didn't have my belt tensioner tool. It's just too tight on that side of the motor to get anything else in to release the belt. Anywhoooo..... I need someone to install the pump, since I can't get back down for a couple of weeks. She's on a fixed income, so I'll be paying for it. She's off of I205 and Division. It's an easy job. No more than two hours at a VERY leisurely pace. lol Just email me if you're able to do this soon. skishop2@yahoo.com Thanks guys! PS It was a great day to have the XT GL10 with the top out for a drive down and back. Ran just a tad toasty though at the speed I was driving...

Mucho appreciatto! Need to pick some parts. Going to head out next weekend and check. Going to Montana this weekend.......

Where?!Where?!Where?! ???? Do you have a name or more specific location/directions? I make that drive several times a month and don't remember seeing a yard. (of course, that would have nothing to do with my driving:brow: ) I'm not even 15 min from that area. Need to chect some turbo parts.... Thanks!

Right, that's just one of the callouts. It's not right. I'm hoping someone knows it, or has a package. Thanks T.....

I had my windshield replaced a while back and all of the A-pillar retainers broke. No suprise, they're brittle and it's a common problem. I've been dealing with Subaru trying to find the right ones. The problem is that on the parts callout there are 12 different clips listed for the A-pillar. So far, I've seen all kinds of wrong ones. Anyone know what the correct part # is? They are about 5/8 long, hollow with a screw through them and two 'locking' tabs. I don't want to urethane the A-pillar trim in place, but I'm tired of running around without them. Thanks!

Didn't realize they were back up. Been out of the loop for a while. Thanks!

I had already posted this in the classifieds, but no luck. I need the drivers side windshield molding for an XT. I'll pay price plus shipping and a little 'extra' if needs be. The retainers will break when removed, but I don't care as I have new ones. Can somebody please yank one from a JY?! Thanks, Ski

Ross, you are correct. I got hold of an older Subie tech, and that's exactly what he said. 1/4 to 1/2 turn in form no contact. It DOES make a difference where the throttle plate is set. Incorrect setting can result in hesitation, surging and improper idle (according to him). I got it handled and it also helps if the PCV line in the air tube after the MAF is plugged in too. Can't believe I missed that. Doh! She runs great now. Thanks guys.

I have the procedure for setting the idel on the 88 EA82T MPFI, bt since it was screwed with before and after I got it, I need to know if anyone has the specs for setting the throttle plate stop screw. (some of you might call it the 'idle' screw) I know the throttle plate has to be in a specific spot so you can set the idle switch for 1.5 degrees then adjust the idle air screw on top of the throttle body. Specs anyone?

It's ALIVE!!! So, I now have a new motor. I bought a new crank, rods and pistons and got her all back together, The #1 journal on the old crank was missing about 1/4" in diameter. I figured I wasn't going to screw around with welding, grinding and resizing, so I went new. With 136K on it, the cylinder bores were still under max spec, so I got to use std pistons. Since the skirt broke off of #1, I kind of had to. No mods, just a stock rebuild. Didn't really have the time to do anything, though I would have liked to. I am however finally going to install my boost controller and gauges after the motor is broken in. BTW..... How many times can an intelligent experienced tech install the timing belts wrong? Twice so far. Once each time the engine was out. I get rolling, and the brain goes into Honda/Nissan mode and I set the belts like everyone else DOES. Then I go to start it and get nothing. Then it hits me...... Subaru does it diferently you SCHMUCK!!! Maybe I'll go for the hat trick....

Well now.... Don't I feel like an rump roast! Thank God I went over it six times so I could miss that one! Thanks guys. I got her apart. Is there supposed to be almost 3/8" of play in the connecting rods? I'm thinking this is a bad thing. Neither the crank or the rod is salvageable. I've got new ones on the way. I just wanted to see the damage. Still ran.... Hey, when I reseal this thing, should I use red anaerobic sealer, or the 1104? I DO NOT want leaks!

Sorry, my bad... EA82T from my 87.5 XTGL10

Well, granted your a little ways away, but if you want to drive over to Puyallup, I can do it. Ski

Ok, I did a search for this and reall didn't find anything useful. I've already been beating on it with the hammer 2x4 method, and no go. ALL the bolts are out. Been over it 6 times to be sure. I know not to try and chisel or 'wedge' it apart. I can build a tool if necessary (love to fab), but I'm wondering if somebody knows something I'm not seeing.

Does anyone make a non-cork pan gasket? Maybe a rubber/neoprene one? I'm finally getting around to replacing the crank and rod in the XT GL10 and the one I just put in is leaking (no suprise!). If not, I'm going to ultra grey the pan.