skishop69

If you drop the subframe, the control arms will be pushed down which will actually change (lengthen) their effective working length which in turn pushes the bottom of the tire out. Since you're not changing the actual strut height or position, the ride height doesn't change.

The control arms could be modified to reduce camber. Some guys have re-drilled another hole where it mounts, though it's not a good idea to do this as there isn't enough structural metal left on the outboard side and it will eventually lead to metal fatigue and cracking, The best bet is to lengthen the lower control arm the correct amount. There are a few ways to do it so it will be structurally sound and actually make it stronger. The other is as you thought, move the top of the strut inboard.

Still end up at the same price after shipping.

A ground eyelet is a ground eyelet. GENERALLY (not always) you can bolt it anywhere that has a circuit path to ground. Either will work, but IIRC, that goes on the manifold bolt.

Someone here knows how to fit a dizzy on the EJ with an already available part. I think it may have been an old Ford dizzy, but I can't remember. It was covered in a post some years ago.

Check and clean both ends of the positive and negative cables. Sounds like you have a high resistance issue.

I'm curious where you found that. It's been discussed, but there were mentions of it not being viable. I'd rather use the EA82 pump when I do my conversion.

I already PM'd him. lol

Drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money unless you are racing. They do absolutely nothing to increase braking on a daily driver. The holes and slots are there to dissipate heat from hard and constant braking faster than just vented rotors and yes, they go through pads faster. Just use the factory EA82 rear disc setup and the improvement will be day and night.

I don't know where you got that term, but it doesn't exist. I've been a tech going on 30 years and have never heard nor read that term. Two CAT systems are primary and secondary. Glad you found the problem.

You won't notice any difference. It's not that big of a change. I've driven my Brat from sea level to 5500 ft and other than a slight lack of power on passes, nothing was different.

Yep. You need to look for a non-turbo car. They have the 3.9. Turbos had a 3.7 ratio. It's a small change numbers wise, but your power and mileage will suffer if you swap. Not a lot, but noticeably.

You can't use EA81 components. You have to use EA82. If you don't know the difference, check the dizzy location. EA81: Front of the engine. EA82: Left rear corner coming out of the cam cover.

+1 At 150K, it's a bad idea. On a fresh engine, IF you studded the heads and had an ignition control system to run the timing along with methanol injection, it should be ok with a 50 horse shot. The engine will surely yardsale under current mileage and configuration as GD pointed out. You can't build power from an EA81 without knowledge and experience, and even then, you're still limited by original design.

No, there are no suppliers. You'll have to remove the glue/epoxy from the end of the solenoid where it supports the wire and get some of the insulation off the wire. strip the other end of the wire and solder them together. Reapply epoxy to cover the solder and support the wire. Btw, this solenoid has nothing to do with idle speed.

Octane rating is the ability to avoid detonation due to compression. At 8.7:1, there is no risk of detonation. I can run 87 octane in my 10:1 SB Chevy 400 on occasion, but if I start pushing it, it gets unhappy if it's hot so I mostly run a minimum of 90.

No. Ultra Grey only unless you want to have leaks. Ultra Grey was designed for wet use with oil. All of the manufacturers use Ultra Grey, they just call it their own thing.

+1 and Jerry knows these swaps inside and out.

+1 You can have continuity and still not be able to draw enough amperage. If you have ten strands in your wire and all but one are broken somewhere or a terminal is only making partial contact, you won't be able to draw the require amperage.

You can use the diode check as a quick, down and dirty method, but it will not tell you the resistance of the circuit. Checking continuity also means checking resistance. Anything over 5-10 ohms means something is going on somewhere. Resistance=voltage drop or signal interference which can result in it acting like an open circuit depending on the resistance. Use the ohms setting.

MPFI ran the same pistons as SPFI though it had a higher torque and horsepower.

Ok, Scott aside... 'Cause he likes to do weird stuff like put the engine in the passenger seat, weld up the trans diff and use the trans axle outputs for drivelines to the front and rear diff... Who cares if you can only go 25MPH! Sorry Scott, just had to give you some ribbing. lol I love the crazy stuff you do! Yes, if you have fabbing skills, or know someone with fabbing skills and is willing to jump onboard, it really is fairly simple. Build a frame, mount engine & tranny, modify wiring harness, etc, etc etc.... That's if you have the skills and time. We should all thank the powers that be that Scott has too much time on his hands and some skills or we wouldn't have lift kits or see some really weird rearrangement or re-purposing of Subaru components that result in unique and bizarre vehicles. Props to Scott!

Only 3 variations. Bore and stroke are the same, but the pistons are different. Turbo is 7.7:1, carb is 9:1 and SPFI is 9.5:1. Torque is the same for the carb and SPFI engine but the horsepower is slightly less on the carbed engine due to the piston height difference. The difference is something like 5 or 6 horse power, not really enough to notice.

Yeah, I realized that after I left for the Serama show this morning. My bad. Sorry about that. Gotta start paying closer attention in the mornings. lol

The heater controls are not vacuum powered. just the recirc door is. The cable from the controls to the mode door is either broke, disconnected or the mode door is not working. As far as the temp, the same things can apply or the heater control valve (on the firewall just to the left of the gas pedal) is stuck or the heater core is plugged. Check both cables and doors for movement, pull the heater hoses & flush the core and make sure the hose on the core side of the valve is getting hot to verify it's open.