skishop69

Check the ignition feed at the ECU itself and make sure it's getting 12v while cranking. If not there's your problem. Also check all your grounds. An ECU pinout would be a great help to you. If you don't have one, let me know and I'll pull one up, scan it and mail it.

For those of you looking to tackle this problem... Glass will be your easiest (once the molds are made) and cheapest option. When you start, be sure to use E-glass and NOT the shredded mat. The E-glass is 10x stronger and isn't so messy to cut and work with. Minimum two layers, go three and it will be tougher than you think.

No, I'm in the same boat. Had to finish a FIAT:banghead: , put the heads back on my buddy's 4Runner and paint my house ( and that was just LAST weekend) plus I just found out one of my friends (of 22years) has an innoperable brain tumor:dead: so I have to fly to Italy on the 9th. I'm guessing end of July before I look at it. I still have to yank the ER27 for my Brat. I'm wayyyyy behind. You can PM me though and I will update here.

This should fit the ER27 as well, Yes?

I'm not sure what you consider 'low pressure', but most trannies run 40 - 60 psi ( some higher than that) on the cooler lines. Since most liquid systems are rated at 60% of their actual capability (I know this only because my EX was an engineer) this means the system could take 100psi without failing. Since your oil pressure would only see 80psi max on cold starts (reg'd by PR valve) and only for five minutes of warm-up, you are in no danger of blowing the cooler. Want to test the theory? (we've done this) Take a junk rad and cap off one cooler line. Put an air fitting on the other. Turn down your air prssr to 30psi and plug it onto the coupler. Slowly take it up to max (120psi in most case) It will hold. We used 200psi purposely trying to blow it (and did!!! Holy noise Batman!!!)

Nope, straight flow thru. That's why when you forget a tranny line and start it, immediately realize your mistake and then shut it off, you've already lost 2 qts.

You actually can use the tranny cooler in the radiator, though as you guessed, it won't be as efficient. The common misconception is that the passages are too small. Every rad we've tore down has one to three tubes (approx 5/16" dia) going straight through the tank. Because of the high pressure and huge volume a tranny has the lines will easily support oil flow. We've had guys do it. PMOC (poor man's oil cooler)

I don't have the wiring in front of me, but one wire at each injector will have 12v that is ignition fed through a fused circuit. The other wire of the injector will be tied (somewhere) to another injector and then to the ECU. The ECU fires the injectors in pairs by grounding them. With key on, check both terminals in the plug to ground with a test lite. If they all have 12v, you have bad injector drivers in the ECU(i.e. It's toast) If they don't have 12v, check the fuse then the wiring. A quick power-up shortcut is to piggyback 12v onto the appropriate wire (which will supply all four injectors) and then start. This is a test, not a fix. The 12v circuit needs to be fused.

Are you 100% sure it was oil? The reason I ask is you said it was by the carbon can. If your vapor recovery system malfunctions and gets saturated with fuel, then the engine is no longer burning vapors it's sucking raw fuel causing... black smoke and loss of power. It will also puke out the carbon saturated gas. (black) If you had standard Subaru residual oil leaks, it could be easily confused. As to the sqealing noise... coming from the canister itself. GM's did this a lot back in the 80's. Pull the carbon can and tip it upside down. No fuel should come out, if it does, replace it. Also check the lines for cracks and make sure they're not plugged. Also make sure your gas tank is venting properly. By rodding the crap out of it, you essentially burned off the excess fuel and it runs fine....until next time:eek:

I can check mine when I get home to see if the OE # is still there. You might try posting here www.xt6.net

No, recover R12 first, then pull a vacumm. Min. 28". Then disassemble and install kit. Re-assemble and pull a vacuum again. Same min. Watch the guages for 15 minutes. There should be no more than a 1" - 2" drop. If it holds, recharge the correct amout of 134A. God I love a good conspiracy!

As refrigerants, they are more dangerous than a propane converted engine. The kits you get to convert contain special hoses, metering devices and regulators. Most of the set-ups I have seen have the pressure regulated way down from the 3000psi tank pressure before they hit the engine compartment. Because the system was engineered for this, the danger is minimal. Since U.S. AC systems were not designed for use with hydrocarbons, you will have a system failure (not IF, WHEN) and that's where the trouble lies. I have seen two cars come in on the hook, one a total and the other very close, because they went hydrocarbon on their AC. I have no problem driving or owning a propane conversion, it's safe. I would never use hydro AC refrig. As for a leak at the EVAP core, you are correct. You will get a dose, however the leak would have to be gross. Just poinint out the hazzards.

Hydrocarbon refrigerants !!!... R134A killing subjects!!!... I think me head is going to explode. Let me clear some things up. I have been certified ( at the state and national levels) to work on AC systems for almost 15 years. DO NOT use hydrocarbon refrigerants. First off because they are highly explosive. They didn't stop using it beause of a 'few' accidents, they stopped using it because of the SIGNIFICANT loss of life and property often associated with with huge fiery explosions. (the latter being a minor exaggeration) Seriously, the stuff is dangerous no matter how well maintained the system is. Secondly, it is ILLEGAL in almost every state to use hydracarbon refrigerant.( thus the Japanese won't be using it) Notice I said USE not sell. Because of the 'grey' area, these guys can keep making it and selling it. Refrigerants like Frigifreeze and other off brands should likewise be avoided. They are often a mixture of different freons and hydrocarbons. Mixing refrigerants and hydrocarbons increases the possibility for flamage. Using hydrocarbons without changing to special hose, will cause your original hose to be eaten form the inside out. (what happens when you run gas through a vacuum line for extended periods?) Now that I'm done with that... R134A is NOT highly toxic. Yes, all forms of refrigerant are toxic to a degree, but 134 is actually the safest one to date. Exactly how much were their subjects subjected to? It would take 2 - 3 minutes of inhaling straight refrigerant before any serious (near death) effects would be noted. Continuous long term exposure would also have risks. But since most of us are smart enough not to snort refrigerant from the can or stand over the engine bay with a leaking AC system, the health risks are negligeable at best. I'm not trying flame anyone here, but the fact remains you either need to recharge with R12 made by Dupont or another large reputable company ( $80 -$90/lb) or spend the money for the conversion (which will usually be about the same price) to R134A. The kits run about $40. It consists of two adapter fittings for the high and low charge ports and new O-rings and gaskets for the hose fittings. Once it's done, you can always use the 134 if something happens to the system. (134 being about $40/lb) R12 is in thelatter stages of being phased out. I can't remember the exact date, but in a few years no one will be making it. (federal mandate) Spending a few more bucks and being temporarily unhappy is better than 'budget buying' and being a crispy critter.

I just read a post here (but for the life of me can't find it now) that someone here had arranged a group buy and might possibly purchase extras since AA was going to dc the lift.

Just curious if the buy was still open or if any 'extras' were ordered. Does anyone know if there are any stocked that weren't sold.

Was that the one that was tucked away off of Orange St and I90 in Missoula? There's been one sitting there for years. Too far to haul back though. Nice snag!

Left outboard CV. Reccommend replace left axel. (most likely)

Can that intake be used on the ER27?

Is a fast or slow click? Does it change with speed? If you swerve left to right and vice versa does it change pitch? Depending on the noise, it could be a wheel bearing or something stuck in your tire.

I know it's either fuel pump or injector related. I haven't had time to check yet. A failed pressure regulator will almost always cause a seriously rich condition although in very rare cases (which I have seen) it will completely grenade and cause a very lean condition. Even then it will run but poorly. I'm hoping to check flow and pressure next week as I'll be bombing through the backwoods of Shelton this weekend.

When I get to a point where I can shoot some and figure out how to post them......

Brought it home this AM. Thanks to Ever Victorious for the deal. I think he down played the car so I would'nt be dissappointed. It's in great shape!!! The digidash is working and so are all the windows, mirrors etc!!! I was actually looking at it for a turn-n-burn, but since we spend so much time in the woods.... rally car:headbang:

See now... if you would have just got the rears off my 2wd XT, I could have brought them up this morning (He says on his way out the door).:cool:

Ken is correct. R-12 fittings are small and threaded, R134A fittings are larger and not threaded. Without jury-rigging charging hoses it's pretty hard to put in the wrong freon.

Fabrication it is.... Where's my smoke hatchet?