skishop69

Yes. Inlet is straight in, outlet is the 90 degrees at the pressure regulator. Not sure which pipe it goes to on the engine. I'm a little rusty on my EJ stuff and I can't get to mine to look. lol

I saw the picture, but other than the hole being a bit bigger than normal, it doesn't really show where the problem is. If the fab shop is willing to weld plate aluminum to cast aluminum they're going to hit you for at least $100 because it has to be TIG welded.

Ok, without seeing it firsthand, it's hard to envision what damage was done. Here's another idea since you say there's nothing for the JB to grab on to. JB makes another product called SteelStick. It's a two part epoxy putty that comes in a hard plastic tube and it doesn't ooze like the Weld product does. I've used it on a number of fabrication projects and some weird repairs. Cut off a piece bigger than you need and squish it together per the instructions then pack it into the hole filling the whole thing. You need to move fairly quickly as it has a short work time. Use a screwdriver, metal rod or equivalent to push it down in the hole and seal any areas you see as trouble, filling the hole completely making sure you pack it good and leave a little over the top so you can file it smooth after it cures. It will cure in one piece so you don't have to worry about something coming loose and getting into the cooling system. Short of welding or replacing the manifold, it's the only option I can think of.

If we're talking the main coolant passage from head to head you must have it as it's an integral part of the cooling system. If we're talking the carb warmer at the front of the carb base, just fill it in with JB. I doubt you'll have any freeze up issues in Prescott. lol

Damn you and your references! lol I yield as you can't argue with field testing from a reputable source. I started working on cars with my dad at 8 years old so you can say I'm old school. Back then, almost everyone said hone it. I will correct my stored data to no honing, lol

I did say bore or hone halfway through. Years ago I had the opportunity to witness the flex in the case at a machine shop I dealt with on a regular basis. I was dropping off an engine while he was working on an EA81 case. He explained it to me and showed me the difference by taking several snap gauge readings in one cylinder, bolting the cases together and plates on and measuring again. There was a difference and he did say boring and honing had to be done this way. I'm just relaying what I was told based on what I saw. I'm not saying you need to go to town on it, just a quick in an out to scuff the glaze but again, not on our engines. Just two different methods that both will work.

Yes, I seem to recall that now. Plugs on the case halves you can remove to access the wrist pin clips and then pull the wrist pins out. Yes, you're SUPPOSED to hone when you re-ring, but because our engines use case halves and not a block, it requires special tools to do correctly or it will make things worse. The case actually flexes so you have to have both halves bolted together and then there is a plate that bolts where the head would go. Putting it all together this way puts the case in it's 'functional position' as if it were fully assembled which keeps the cylinders in a 'round' position. When the halves are not joined and there is no head or plate installed, the case halves are in their 'static' state and the flex causes warpage which distorts the cylinders causing them to twist or become oval. Bore or hone them in this state and you just made them out of round and created uneven gaps between the cylinder wall and the rings. It's on the order of thousandths of an inch, but that's all it takes to screw up your compression. Bad juju. Install the rings with no hone and then drive it like you stole it for at least 50 miles. Hard launches, running it to redline and loading the engine. The extra force of combustion will force the rings into the cylinder walls to help them seat. It's not ideal, but better than honing without the proper tools and it's actually how you are supposed to seat Moly rings used in performance engines. Of course GD got in his two cents while I was typing. lol True, you don't have to hone to re-ring, but you should break the glaze in the cylinder for proper ring seating. You DO have to hone if it's bored. The boring process leaves cutting marks on the cylinder walls that they remove by honing.

So I understand this correctly, there is a screw installed in the hole that the PO drilled too far and that coolant is leaking out past that screw? If that is the case, find a fiber washer to fit the screw and put it on then cover the screw threads with Ultra Gray. If the UG doesn't stop all of the coolant coming by, the fiber washer on top will. You could also try to JB Weld the hole, but that's more work and you'd have to get it in there just right to do the job.

You don't need to split the case to check ring gap. out of round or bore dimensions. Yes, if you're going to re-ring it, you have to split the case. Still nothing to do with bearings. I agree with the above though. Slap your heads and t-belt back on and go.

Getting a bolt removed from the flexplate to crank has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH THE BEARINGS!!! Tell him to go p!ss up a rope. This has got to be the most blatant rip-off ploy I've seen. Personally, I would call him on it, talk to the manager, take your engine, give them nothing and go to another machine shop. I would also file a complaint with the BBB. Wow. What a load of horse hockey.

Whether it's in recirc or not will not affect getting hot air. It only changes where the air comes from. Inside or out.

Gotcha and that makes sense. I've never seen one operate the other way on any car, but if the engineers had been thinking, they could've come up with a way to close it at car off to prevent rodent infiltration and not have that be the default in case something happened in cold, humid weather. If it did fail closed, you have a nasty fogging problem.

Correct, but I didn't mention that since the recirc doesn't have anything to do with temp control. I didn't want to start any confusion in case there was more Fireball involved. lol Are you sure about it being closed when the car id off? I only mention it because I've been into the controls on my Brats several times and there is a vacuum valve in the recirc position that supplies vacuum when in the recirc position and causes the door to close causing recirc. When the car is not running or recirc is not selected, the door is in outside air position. I mention that part, because that's how the critters find their way into the heater box when the car is sitting like so many people post here that their car was sitting and now they have rodent refuse in the box.

Really? Just plain old glycerin? Interesting. I'll have to file that away for later use. Thanks!

Fireball..... Nuff said. lol IIRC, the 83 heat controls don't use vacuum, so it's probably the temp/flow valve. The temp valve is located inside the firewall where the hoses come through. You should be able to see it clearly to tell if the arm moves when you move the temp lever. Of course, if you know the core is getting hot, it's most likely the mode door, lever or cable.

You can dig out a little of the resin around where the wire on the solenoid broke off, solder the wire back on and then use some epoxy to build up from the solenoid to reinforce where the solder joint. It's been my experience that gutting it will end up causing run on when you turn the key off.

+1

If the vanes are hitting the pickup, the bushing is shot and it's not going to fire. It has to have an air gap to work properly. You can get it re-bushed if needs be, but you do need to check for power at the coil and the leads on the dizzy.

Sooooo.... Yeah. If you could just elaborate, that'd be great.

Any EA81 sending unit for an analog cluster will work. Save finding a good used one, you'll have to get a universal one with the same ohm readings and make it work.

Gotcha. Been a while since I had to adjust any of the Brat's or XTs. Didn't think about someone reafing on it and destroying the cam inside. Definite possibility as well.

IIRC, these have two adjusting nuts at the hand brake lever, one for each wheel. These were made before the self adjusting kind were produced. You need to tighten the one that goes to the right wheel until the cable end is contacting the lever at the caliper.

Just to clarify, you need the actual rotor or the rotor button because they're two different things. The button is the little carbon or brass button in the cap and it comes with it. Unfortunately, all my Subies have Hitachi dizzy's so I can't point you in the right direction, but someone here will.

Get a can of brake clean and spray around the base of the carb, both sides where the manifold mounts and all the vacuum lines. if the idle changes when you spray by something, there's where your vacuum leak is IF you have one. Could be timing set wrong or the wrong vacuum hose going to the distributor.

Still stuck on 6"? On road or off, that's way too much for the little 1600. Not trying to be a d!ck, but don't say we didn't warn you. IF you manage to get up to freeway speed (and even if you don't), you're going to be overworking the engine and stressing the CVs. Things will begin to fail in short order. When you ask the board a question and more than one person points out that it's a bad idea and gives reasons why, it's from experience not opinion. Generally, this is a time to rethink things using the wisdom of the board members.