Scholzpdx

They are the Red lights, I believe these two. I'm about to be going over to my parents place where it's sitting. Not my car, obviously, but those two. Other people with somewhat similar problems think its the MAF or maybe even the ECU. Does my problems how i described in the other thread sound like the crank is it? I already replaced the cam sensor.

94 Impreza 1.8 L Sedan 210K Well, as title states. What voltage or ohms should those sensors be putting out? My dad needs to know before we start replacing them. Also I did tow my car home for one mile, but it was in neutral and it was a straight pull, not towed up onto a truck or anything like that. My only problem is that since that happened my back lights wont shut off. Even when I turn off my car those lights stay on. Any ideas? Are they correlated? Previous thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=950000

Where is this coolant temp sensor? Will it be an easy check? I cant seem to find my Chilton Subaru book now!

Update: Yesteday my Impreza broke down in a fred meyers parking lot and was doing th same issue as before. No start whatsoever. It was towed to my parents any my uncle took a look at it. He called a local mechanic for advice and he too said the cam or the crank sensor. Today the car wouldn't turn on. According ot my uncle the old cam sensor was only putting out 11ohms. He bought a new one at Baxters ($70) which turned out to be DOA. He then pulled one from a Legacy at Pick N Pull for $2 and then swapped it out. The car started immediately. The newer cam sensor put out 22.5ohms on the multimeter. Does this sound right? Should I assume my car is safe for daily driving now? Also, my parents never had the issue of the car turning off while in motion, they just had it after turning it off and then starting it again. Would the faulty cam sensor cause my car to turn off during normal operation? Or was this separate? It only happened which there was a lot of weight in my car (250-350+ above normal driving.) Again, thanks for the replies.

Thanks for the reply. Interesting it wouldnt toss a code up. Would this sensor also shut off the engine while in motion? Its been that about half of the time. I only have Legacys in my part yards. Are these interchangeable on my Impreza? And simple is great. I'm no actual mechanic, but I want to learn this car. After seeing my parents old loyale hit 350k, i'm going to do what I can to take this car there as well.

I have a 94 Impreza L Sedan, 1.8L, AT, 210K. I bought it around 193k. The car has quit working about five times now and it has rendered my car useless for an hour to weeks. I'm guessing it's a sensor. Here's the work my father, uncle and I have done. Replaced: Fuel Pump Fuel Filter Fuel Relays Alternator All fuses and relays from the main box. Main relay (in the center, top part of the engine, by the windshield) And many others, but I don't think those are important for this issue. So my car seemingly refuses to start or dies out in motion when it gets hot or intense load. I'm not sure if its just a coincidence. Each time it's either been pretty hot outside (85-100F) or I had been carrying a lot of weight (Five mid twenties people up a hill and another time with three men and about 120lbs of weight going 80mph on i205). My battery is producing fine, my alternator is putting out, I'm getting spark, but no fuel. When this problem occurs I was able to pour some gas into my air intake and the car sputters and starts until the manually injected fuel is depleted. My uncle said it probably is the sensor that redise about a foot past my filter on my intake. I went to a pick-n-pull and found a wrecked later 90's legacy with the same sensor. Most Subarus don't have this exact one. When I got home to put it in the car started right up without swapping them out. I'm hesitant on replacing it as I want to replace it when the problems occurs again to see if that's what it was. My uncle says it sensors the air intake and tells the car to send in the appropriate amount of fuel. When the sensor goes out, no fuel is sent. So that's why we manually injected fuel. I did get a check engine light for a minute ONE time while going up a hill but I turned off the car and turned it back on without major issue. It did feel sluggish and low on driving power. MY father and uncle say i'm just imagining it, but since this has been going i'm I feel like i'm not getting as much driving power as it used to put out. Sometimes it struggles up a hill and around town (ex. not revving up as much as it should while full throttle in being applied). Also sometimes the RPMs drop to around 400-500 or so. This problem is very intermittent, but serious enough to keep me stranded. I've had to get 2 very expensive tow rides home now. Does this sound like that sensor? Or something totally different? Anything an amateur backyard mechanic can try with a multimeter or am I going to have to take it into a shop? I'm getting sick of driving around a Dodge Stratus.

One more thing... I've never seen inside of my trunk. I took it to a locksmith and they said the lock was completely destroyed. I tried pulling out the backseat to no avail. Where do I grab or push or pull it out? I have the 4dr Sedan model.

So last night my father and I raised the idle to approx 700-750. It was idling around 500 in neutral. Tell you what, my Chilton book has the WORST pictures for changing that. I looked up something unrelated (wiring i believe) and found a much better sketch there. The first plug turned out to be the AC unit. It is BLOWN. I tried to turn it by hand and it wouldn't budge. I unplugged the cable again. I don't need A/C at all. Is the belt OK just spinning there although it's not being used? Should I unplug the cable that is right next to the recently unplugged cable as well? The second port most likely isn't my cruise control, as it works just fine. When I bought it I reattached it to the steering column (i believe that's the right term) and it works great. My father and I also checked out my alternator and my battery. My alt was putting out 14.01 and my battery was putting out 13.98. This was during 700rpms at Idle in neutral. Is that amount of Vdrop (computer term, but i'm sure it's the same) acceptable for a car? If I was to buy an AC unit off of anyone it would have to be exceptionally cheap. I just lost my job, so luxury car repairs/addons come last. Also, the car seems to be running just fine now. I really don't want more problems down the road though. Beside motor oil, how often should I change out my spark plugs and my air filter? I also have no records of the transmission fluid being changed. It has enough oil (my father checked that) and it functions fine, but I want to keep on top of things. I heard that changing your AT oil this late in the game (210k) on an original transmission (I believe) is a terrible idea. And flushing it is even worse. What do I do? Thanks everyone for your replies.

Long story, but most (if not all) is pertinent. SO I bought this car about a year ago. It's a Subaru Impreza L 1.8L/Auto with 193K. I'm at about 209900 right now. I use Castrol Syntec 10w-30 and plus octane gasoline. The Knock sensor is out. Work done since: New right CV joint Fixed Head Gasket Oil Leak New (recert.) alternator. 9 months ago my car stopped turning on while I was leaving work. The engine just wouldn't start up. I bought a new battery. I tried to get a jump from my brothers 91 civic. No luck. I got a jump from m dad a few weeks later and viola! It runs again. Two months ago I was driving to my lady-friend's house and my headlights lights got real dim, my dash was completely black and my car was driving incredibly weird. I parked my car on the street at her house, and tried to turn it back on. Absolutely NO POST AT ALL. My battery was dead. The next day I got a jump and drove it home. Nothing power wise worked in the car. I got home and turned off my car. It wouldn't start without a jump. I bought a new alternator and my father and I put it on. Problems gone until 5/6. The past few months my idle while driving often dips to 200-400rpms, but usually stays around 600-800rpms. Not sure if this is related. At approximately 230am while driving by Oregon City (20 miles away) my car died on the freeway. I was going about 70mph and I felt like I was losing control (speed wise) of the vehicle. I pulled over and parked. I turned my car off and tried to start it. It tried to turn over completely but wouldn't. It just wouldn't start. I got two jumps from a cop and a tow truck and nothing. I had it towed back to my new place. At 4am I got home. My battery charger said the battery was completely dead. I hooked up my battery charger for an hour. Typically it always started up while hook up to it (previous two times it died). Even while on starter mode the car wouldn't turn on. It wouldn't turn on at all. Same thing as on the highway, but sounded a lot faster. Later that day (4pm) I went out to my car and tried to start it without help from the charger. It turned right on. I charged my batter for 5 hours (near complete charge) and it was drivable again. I also noticed two plugs in my car were not plugged in. The plug near my alternator that I'm pointing to (Pic 1) wasn't plugged in. I plugged it in. What is it? I also noticed a port with no matching connector. What is this to? This morning at about 5am I went out to my car to drive. I turned it on without issue, but when I went to defrost my idle went from 1200rpm to bouncing at 100-400rpm. It made a loud screeching sound. I smelt something burning. I took it off defrost and it seemed to go away. I used heat and vent without isses. It was just defrosting of any kind. I was driving and turned it back on and it literally nearly turned off my car while driving (rpms to 0 multiple times in a couple seconds). The sound was really loud. What is this to? Now that I think about it, my defrost was on while my car broke down the day before last. Are they related? Any suggestions? Pic 1: Pic 2: