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Subruise

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Everything posted by Subruise

  1. lol kidding right? cuz if not ill triple that
  2. Rarely does an ea series leak oil from the hgs externally. thats an EJ series thing. You are most likely leaking from A) valve cover gaskets. use a 10mm ratcheting wrench. loosen and move motor mounts if you need to but its not too bad. lots of folks mistake the cam towers for heads, these will leak after time due to the dealer only metal reinforced o-ring contained therein. C) camseals are probably as dry and brittle as the rest of the rubber on that engine. Id bet a sixpack your HGs are fine. pull your motor, do a reseal (or leave it in and do it) while its out, clean the engine bay real nice.
  3. i know this sounds dumb, but a buddy of mines car got stuck overnight on the trail due to a failure to check the coil fuse in the fuseblock. have you confirmed fuses are good?
  4. Finally got around to using the Ignore prefs function today, I shoulda done this sooner. my apologies

  5. ....and this is why youre practically spamming this site...because its your right to the freedom of ignorance. Why dont ya post some more threads and tell us cool stuff you did years ago that we're all aware of....because we drive these things too
  6. gotta use photobucket or some other hosting site. pretty sure all these answers can be found in the FAQ
  7. ive seen exactly one ea82 with cylinder wall damage. and that was very recently. granted, ive only torn down around 10 of those but ive been sure id find damage a few times and was surprised at how well these hold up.
  8. plug in the green connectors under the hood up near the bottom of the windshield, drivers side. turn key to "on" position. the injector should cycle every few seconds. make sure all your clamps are tight for the intake and all electrical connections are clean. No vacuum leaks? I know this probably isnt fuel related but without knowing the history and condition of the car i have to go with the basics. use maf cleaner to clean the Mass Airflow Meter if you can. follow the directions properly to avoid damage. worst case is I have a throttle body you can have for a six pack of Hamms, I live near Tacoma
  9. I buried my lifted loyale in a field near my house (it was fine in the snow but not record rain lol) and a truck driver neighbor of mine came to the "rescue" with a 94 ford f250 diesel on mud tires. long story short, those engines weigh (he said 6000 lbs) alot...he sunk up to the rims. my loyale remained up to the oil pan. Enter my buddy Sam's (91_EJ_22 on here) 91 legacy sedan 318k on the complete original engine and 4eat. The chains come off my car and move to the back of the Ford. Sam hooks up the front of the hoopty (itd been parked under a truck before he got it for a song) and simply backed up in the gravel driveway across the street.....not so much as a whimper from that thing..... the neighbor then got his semi and 100' more strappage and drug the loyale out from the road
  10. Subruise

    Trooparu

    dude knows what hes doing. Hes pretty much the EA82 encyclopedia right now. eatin popcorn..........
  11. Stoob, if I were you Id do both. Ive asked the same and while its fine to do only one, I found out much more about the condition of my engine and gained piece of mind by doin both. Also have found under torqued (or bolts not holding torque) head bolts on a few ea82s. its worth it imho
  12. yes, research blow through turbo setup. this one in particular has the turbo engine from an 80s model.
  13. tighten them, dont ever leave suspension parts loose. if you want measurements, go outside w a tape measure. measure how far apart the holes are and decide how far down youre going ( ie how big is your lift?) put the bottom holes there. make sure your piece of material is big enough for that. maybe start a thread of your own and for others if you have questions. diff drop is the simplest lift part by far, you literally just need to keep it all the same. so if you used a 1000 inch drop, youd drop the front of the diff the same 1000 inches. its just moving holes around.
  14. 1994 Legacy Option and Value Packages Value Option Group #1 Available on Legacy L sedan/wagon Adds: Automatic transmission, a/c, 40 watt AM/FM stereo with 4 speakers Value Option group #2 available on Legacy L Adds: a/c, power windows and door locks, cruise control and 80 watt AM/FM/Cassette with equalizer, clock 4 speakers Legacy Ti Outdoor Wagon Legacy L All-Wheel-Drive with value Option Group #2 plus: wheel covers adjustable air suspension, body color front grill, mud flaps, woven cloth interior (instead of plush), under passenger seat storage tray, rubber cargo mat, rear cargo net luggage rack with Bike attachement, rear stabilzer bar, engine skidplate Yellow "Subaru" lettering with pine trees exterior graphics Legacy GT wagon Legacy L All-Wheel-Drive with value Option Group #2 plus: mesh alloy heels, raised roof, like on the 96-99 Outbacks body colored door handle and mirrors, roof rails, full ground effects package: front, side, rear CD player, rear stabilizer bar, Anti-lock brakes Legacy Mi Alpine Sport Wagon logo on the front door Legacy L All-Wheel-Drive with value Option Group #2 plus: 7 spoke polished Alloy wheels, mud flaps, Cold Weather Package (Heated front seats and heated outside mirrors, and engine block heater), CD player, black window frames and door handles, roof rack with ski attachments, rear stabilizer bar, engine skidplate, rubber cargo area mat, Body colored grill 4 channel anti-lock brakes Yellow "Alpine Sport" lettering and striping exterior graphics Legacy GX 2.2L Sun Sport Wagon Legacy L Front-Wheel-Drive with value Option Group #2 plus: 7 spoke polished alloy wheels, body color front grill, full ground effects package: front, side, rear power moon roof, wonven cloth interior, CD player, power antenna, rear stabilizer bar, roof rack with bike attachment 1994 colors model winestone pearl ice blue met teal met quick silver met misty dawn met pure white cranberry pearl crimson pearl spruce pearl aegean blue met stillwater blue pearl deep sapphire pearl white pearl desert plum met L A A A A A A A - A - - - - - LS A A A A A A A - A - - A - - LSi A - A - - - A - A - - A - - Turbo A - - A - A - A - A - - - - Outdoor wgn - - - - - - - - A - - - A - Sunsport wgn - - - - - - - - - - A - - A Alpine Sport wgn - - - - - - A - - - A - - - GT wgn - - - - - - A - - - - A - - well i found it. right where TD said. it didnt transfer over to here real well so youll have to go there and click on the year applicable
  15. change the filter by the tank and the vapor seporator canister in the engine bay drivers side. may need to blow the fuel lines out. buy several rear filters and keep them onhand, as well as the tools required to change them, youll be doing this a few times.
  16. beware of shiny oblects mounted in your field of vision
  17. 40 bucks a set is cheap piece of mind to get yours rebuilt google mizpah
  18. 3/16 screwdriver or punch. dont picklefork the ball joint....lever the knuckle off away from the rubber
  19. no kidding? and here i thought the felpros were where its at....that must stem from the no required re torque.
  20. itll get put together as an experiment, and a reason to use up the stone brand hgs I have sitting around. ill be building another ea82 right next to it w a good block and perma torques.
  21. finally got a thermostat back in it today, as well as a shiny new period correct radiator courtesy of a generous donor to the cause. exhaust was getting pretty loud....loose nuts. fixed. will be receiving a single range 5 speed trans soon....bye bye 4k all day (120mile round trip everyday)
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