Subruise

gave up and longblocked it. all is well. will try some redneckery on the other one to see if maybe i can save it. If not, Ill be looking for a 2.5 block soon

im thinking unplugging an O2 sensor thats bad wont have any effect. hondas w bad ones sound like that. also, are you still running a TB w/o that base spacer? are you leaking there?

hows your 02 sensor, Grant? did any wires get messed up when you lifted it?

ill buy your ea82 when you pull it...ill even pick it up or pull it myself. I say this because the other posts are correct. ea82s are slow but keep on going. seriously though...ill drive down there

i dont suppose you loosened the intake boot or anything under the hood did you??

Ive tried a couple times and wont speak for anyone involved, but I was unsuccesful and left in doubt as to whether id ever see it or not....gonna have to go myself.

man, youre gonna have one hell of a tolarance to soobitol at this rate

ill give it a shot. PO stated car was sitting for two months prior to purchase, after a soob mechanic friend of his noticed wobbly crankshaft pulley.

when this happened to me I vice gripped em, then sent the whole lot plus spares to mizpah...now life is good

in my first post i explained about the woodruff key/ keyway being jacked up. i am aware there shouldnt be slop. Yes, the timing/crank sprocket is what i am referring to. I am currently operating on advice from a bunch of threads ive dug up, where members I trust say "torque the snot out of it when its in time and it shouldnt move" It is possible that the snout/keyway is too far gone for this one, in which case ill be swapping longblocks in the near future. I would go for a shortblock but the core is only 30 bucks at pnp so we are going to keep these heads as spares

every single nissan ive owned has had a wonky clutch. the only one i liked was an old 720 my dad had. no way to put enough weight to stop that one....just no way to go fast enough for wind in your hair either lol. s10 wins, period. as far as 4 bangers goes...get a 4.3 s10. youll thank yourself later.

reset, and rechecked timing. still no noticeable improvement but I wont know for sure til he drives it over here tomorrow. It seemed to not buck as much so i was thinking the ecu may be re-learning now that the timing has been corrected. or the timing gear has too much slop even though i tightened the beans out of it.

ive never been able to remove the injector....i usually just replace the unit as a whole. i have a few extras and im down near tacoma if youre interested

turns out passenger (US) side timing IS off, hopefully re-timing rectifies the issue......how come it runs 100% sometimes?

will do, ill report back after tonights adventure

i usually put my flywheel punch in the hole on the end of the axle, then i beat the crap out of that and i quit ruining my axles.....in that way lol

forgot to mention, thanks. weve tried several igniters and have confirmed correct timing

Hi Folks, Im trying to avoid longblocking a friend's new car. We bought it knowing the woodruff key/keyway had issues. the car fired up and ran, so I decided we could fix it with new parts and lots of torque. the new harmonic balancer still has a slight wobble but hasnt loosened at all. We are running into a cylinder 1 and 3 misfire (passenger side), the car bogs at low rpm but wakes right up if you push through it. Misfire was discovered via timing light. drivers side bank acts normal under the light. So far we have replaced the coil pack, igniter, harmonic balancer, timing gear, and woodruff key. Underhood fuel filter was full o rust, and has ben replaced. injectors were pulled and soaked in injector cleaner. timing is correct (lines, not arrows) sparkplugs were removed, visually inspected, re-gapped, and put back in. we also tried known good wires from another lego. This issue is intermittent, sometimes its fine, no matter how you drive it. what say ye? thanks, RV

not sure on threadpitch but ive filed the ends down and chased threads with a triangle file on those with some success. i have to think a die that large would be expensive

mk, no more pics til later this week...so heres some text instead: envision the same car, only with 1900 more miles on it. Ive done another round of fuel filters after doing my best to shake all the crap out at the local offroad spot. No, im not beating on it, no im not gonna lift it. This car will have the life a good little soob needs. Next up will be getting a radio that works, the clarion (OEM?) am/fm mine came with doesnt always work. the front fenders will be replaced as I have some others that im looking forward to using. That means itll get a new coat of white paint after some bodywork that my body wizard dad assures me will be cake. It was cool to see the glint in his eye as he started telling me about looking on clist at soobs recently. He doesnt get excited about cars much anymore but this one got him goin again, hes the one who started me on our flat engined friends.

fenders will work off any gen 2. coupe/hatch doors will work but brat glass is exclusive to that model

you would need a trans, clutch kit, pedal box, cltch cable, possibly the xmember as well but i dont remember it looking different. he thinks the trans is going bad because its a G3 AT. lol, probably the governor if its the trans at all

its metalergic properties and shape keep the torque on the parts. that way youre axle nut doesnt come off..........

the intakes bolt up the same, but are different. youll be modifying distys as well with this swap. do some searching, its been covered lots. one more thing, 87 is a funky year wiring wise...they crossed over from carbies to FI that year. anything that has electrical components should really come from another 87. Im sure someone else can be more specific, but the info is out there if you have a google app on your computational device

here friggin here!!!!! THanKs BRaiN