Subruise

if they made them all swivel, they might not be such a rare option. RV

you should be getting at least half your money back. ive NEVER paid more than 500 bucks before i learned how to do it myself( and that was with a new caliper/ set of rotors. hate to bash other peoples work but if I can find enough info to do something right online by myself there is no excuse for that shop borking your diff. oh, to answer the OP's Q: no you should never need a diff as a result of a clutch in a stockish car. RV

first, make sure they are 6x140 lug pattern. you can search for how in the offroad forum. once you do that you need to figure out if that raised steel is gonna hold you up, my guess it it will. you will have two lugs raised and two not raised. option: redrill the hubs to accept the wheels you bought. this is more precise, and easily fouled up if not done properly. RV

i had to delete my front roll bar when i did my 2" on the loyale. it was still a PITA to do tho. RV

factory fog lamps WITH "subaru" slip covers RV

my 86 was doing that, thought it was the carb. it was the FF.

incline=uphill. decline=downhill. RV

simple answer: a 92 loyale will NEVER be like a WRX, ever. Les Schwab is a good call to check stuff out tho. RV

factory chrome option (i have the receipt). RV

my first car was a 81 GLF fwd 5sp, factory dual exhaust, factory magnesium wheels. 1800 cc. i still need a center cap replaced RV

thanx folks. i kinda figured as much but needed a for sure answer, i think i got it RV

ive got a 2bbl holley nobody wants and i saw Mcbrat had a 4bbl. whitey's hitachi is a lot better with the new fuel filter but i want to know if the holley is feasible. Thanx, RV

just break up the motor and send it in flat rate boxes. i saw a ej 22 for 150 bucks up here yesterday RV

someone just gave me a 83 sedan for freeish and i need to get it home before its scrapped. its been sitting for a bit and needs a to bearing and various other stuff. i digress, i have a holley 2 barrel and possibly some duckets on the petro if someone can help me drag this jewel from snohomish to south hill/ puyallup. quick, before my wife catches me! RV

you mentioned "hitting the bottom of the wheel bending strut?) etc. the answer is yes. why? lever action. think about it, if you hit a strut with the force of say.......a subaru doing 10+ mph youd bend it. my experience with bent stuff/body shops has taught me that bent stuff looks right until straight stuff is presented. RV

look up "franken motor" prolly cheaper than a sti motor, and better to boot. RV

changed oil pan gasket on whitey. found water leak. right where i thought it was, the water pump. stay tuned. also discovered why whitey chokes out sometimes: hitachi crap. i ziptied the flapper pretty close to shut (2000RPM idle now) to get home. sweet. RV

damn i just realized that sounded like i burned the place, i didnt. smoke show=91 ford festiva:lol: RV

i had a similar situation at a shop my dad had worked at all through me growing up. it was great to work with my dad every day. turns out my little brother and the "boss'" son went to school together and didnt get along. when this little punk got a summer "job" cleaning the grounds he made it a point to mess with my stereo, tools etc. i got let go a week after telling the kid not to touch my effin stuff. the guy wouldnt talk to me either, so when i came back to get my check/tools later it was a smoke show to be remembered. moral of the story: let karma handle it, its better that way. good luck man, RV

way to go mitsu guy *fans flames* RV

welcome to subarus my friend:lol: i had an 83 wagon that had grass growing on the visors

im pretty sure the piston is the screw in type. remove the lid from your brake booster (DONT HIT THE BRAKES AFTER DOING THIS), remove caliper as necessary to get to the piston. use needle nose pliers or something of the like to screw in the piston. righty tighty, lefty loosey RV

i had to disconnect and remove my front swaybar. disconnect control arm, and strut top mounts. step on the hub to lower the strut enough to get your liftblocks in from the top. make sure you know which one is the front. also make sure your liftblocks bring the strut tops in toward the center of the car (camber). on a 2" lift you shouldnt need to drop the x-member RV

true, the title says V8 but the thread quickly became about what motor to swap into OP's XT as soon as the viability of the idea became apparent RV

BUMMER ALERT.... we cannot come til next year. this is due in part to a HG problem and the fact that my lil brother is going to basic on monday and I wont see him for quite some time, give those trees hell guys (and gals) RV