Subruise

kinda wish i didnt sell my rs. only had 140k on it. bad 3at 2wd, and no time. sold it to an enthusiastic guy who never gave me updates

Driving lifted cars requires a disciplined throttle, attention to cornering, and the sea saw effect you get when you lift one. the learning curve entails lots of split boots and burning grease. when you leave a stop the front jumps up and stretches everything out. even worse if youre turning. You, however, have gone the extra mile and will most likely see your cvs last longer. My comments refer to a somewhat ranty thread about recurring failure. I stepped in to say that the kit on your car is among a short list of correctly constructed sets. Very few folks take the time or effort as Bill when he made his BOSS kits. Ive never heard of another complaint, therefore its likely you, or your parts, or your car is damaged.

if youre going through asmany axles as you report, youre doing it wrong. or youre getting crap parts. this thread is pretty dead as well as these kits are no longer in production. lmk if you wanna sell yours for 150...ill buy it

Fare thee well sir

same b housing, will need to address the driveline difference. theres a couple ways to acheive this

get a clutch pedal if you wanna burnout in your brat

how rusty is your car? I can fathom a car bending because of swisscheeseidous and flexing back once on the ground.

PICSSSS!!!

id give you that much for it and I dont even want another Brat. Ill come get it running (maybe?) when youre back in town

are all of the intake boots tight? did you unplug the TPS or MAF sensor during your HG job? are they secure? this happened to me and it was a plug wiggling around and loosing connection, gotta put those metal clips back in there

its an auto,so the trans is gonna suck even if it does work. lol Nick, buy that.

use a crowsfoot. thatll get it broke loose when a 02 sensor socket wont. I kinda wish Id bought a set ofthem instead of the "special" socket i purchased

Removed. lol

i like separating the two because it allows me a chance to check TO bearing, and clutch. IMO messing w xmembers is a waste of time when I can be done under the car after 6 bolts. Ive also found traditional cherry pickers cumbersome in comparison to the straight up nature of the chain hoist i use for soobs. without power tools i can pull the whole thing out and swap a trans, and put it back in a few hours, without power tools. To each their own, but is it that hard to get all 4 bell housing bolts off? Harder than dropping xmembers? support (lift) the trans before installing the engine and youre good. go to one fender, pull up on engine, one side falls in mount hole. repeat on other side. its magic. BTW: USE A SPRAYPAINT LID IN THE TRANS TAILSHAFT AND TAPE IT IN BAM NO MORE LEAKS.

wierd...how come i can use a spare efi pump to transfer fuel from above my gas can to another gas can? I know im cool but i dont think thats why

rub some axle grease in the folds on theoutside of the boot as well.thisway it wont rip as fast from rubbing itself

WA is kinda difficult without a title if you are looking to get paid for it. there are lots of folks on CL that will take it for free and use their own loopholes. Ive had to wait for junk vehicle affidavits before, dont waste your time it didnt change anything for me.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144483-ascending-to-hatchdomand-fun-with-little-issues/ post # 24

we'll have a look see soon. sounds like bearing time....

look at the actual gasket as well. youll see the failure point. that said yes, you are correct

they arent press fit for one, soob axles are sliding fit. just tight. ive done hundreds. as for clicking, welcome to the reman zone. plus youre rockin a lifted car which is even harder on em. add to that the fact that you wheel it almost every day and youve got a recipe for clicky-ness. Personally ive always used JY axles and once in awhile I get lucky and a pair will last awhile before my rig turns it to crap. And thanks to that I have a pile of axles to home rebuild. We'll have to have an axle party soon over here.

if not, you can use vice grips and a dog leash to tie the vice grips to to the tie rod. not ideal but itll getcha home. worked for me.

i was tryin to think of a better way but gussets will impede travel. thems the brakes i guess

I believe what is trying to be conveyed here is a general demonstration of murphys law. Right now the control arms bend as a "fuse". If you beef them up, and by all means look at the welds they come with, something else will bend/brake. Its a cyclical system, same reason you cant drop a 300 hp engine in a stock geo and expect it to live. enough babble, just weld the entire seam, its pretty self explanatory. I dont see much else you can do

Actually folks, its called a "net zero tolerance" which means the mating surfaces have the same diameter. this makes things not easy all the time. if it IS too big, its not a genuine subaru axle and is garbage First of all, never buy parts house axles, theyll click immediately out of the box (youll find out when you get it on there) and doubly so w lifted rigs. same chances IMO of getting a decent one from a wrecker, only w/o the warranty. best bet is to get one from a wrecker thats original and reboot yourself.