
hohieu
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Everything posted by hohieu
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Thanks for all the help. A Nor'easter is bringing heavy rains just in time for me to address my starter issues. I hope to get to it tomorrow and will let you know how it goes. Hopefully the rains will have passed through by that point. One thing I've noticed in the pictures posted on this site is that the contacts posts are mounted on the sides of the solenoid. The terminals are mounted on the end (flat side) of the solenoid on my 99 forester.
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I have had a string of bad luck with the new year -- hope it is not a sign of things to come. I went out to start the car this evening and just heard clicking from the starter. I tried tapping the starter and solenoid with a hammer, but it would not turn over. I have a 99 forester with almost 99k miles on on the odm. I am guessing that only the contacts need replacement. Would I find the contacts in the solenoid portion of the starter/solenoid assembly?
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Foresters (98-2002) had problems with the caged ball bearings used in the rear. In 2002, they switched to the Legacy roller bearings. The Impreza and RS are built on the same platform as the models mentioned, right? If so, I imagine they used the same defective rear wheel bearings in these models as well.
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I picked up a used alternator from a 98 Forester to use in my 99 Forester - only had 30 K on it. I had it computer tested at a local auto shop -- passed with flying colors with 98 info. entered into the machine. When they punched in the criteria for a 99 Forester, however, the alternator was determined to be bad. Connections and terminals are identical between the one in my 99 Forester and the 98 alternator, but part and model numbers differ. I decided to buy this used one because 1stsubaruparts.com has one listing for the "98-99" alternator(s). The local parts store, however, lists two different rebuilt units for the years mentioned. Questions: Does anyone know the amperage of the 98 alternator (75 amps for 99)? What risks are involved in the swap?
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It's a pretty straightforward affair: 1) Disconnect battery ground cable and remove connector and terminal from the altenator. 2) Loosen lock bolt (between P/S and Alt. pulleys) on the slider bolt. 3) Unbolt the alternator, and bolt in the replacement. 4) Install the new belt and adjust to proper tension: 7 - 9 mm (.276 - .354) with 10 kg (22 lbs) applied between alt. pulley and crank pulley. If your AC/H20 Pump belt is old, you may want to replace it at the same time. Good luck
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Code Reader Help
hohieu replied to wahoo's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I am resurrecting this thread because I would like to know what else this BR OBD II Interface can do. I just purchased one, and it works great for pulling trouble codes. It will take me some time to learn about the different functions, but how else do you use it? For example, is it possible to monitor the oxygen sensors and replace them before a check engine light is triggered? -
Hi Patrick, Regarding the HG issue, they are a true cause for concern on the Phase I 2.5 L engine, used only in the 98 Forester but as late as 99 in the Legacy. These gaskets leaked internally and are potentially disastrous. Some 99-03 Foresters suffer from external coolant leaks, and are being treated with the coolant conditioner you mentioned, which our trusted, independent mechanic, who works specifically on Subarus, says is doing the trick. He told me that the conditioner actually stopped existing leaks. This treatment is not prescribed for the Phase I engine because pressure from the combustion chamber forces gases into the coolant channels, thereby preventing the aqueous silicone solution from sealing the breech. My car has the Phase II engine -- just turned 88 K miles without any headgasket issues. As for the 2004 and beyond Foresters, I imagine Subaru has designed a new gasket, but they did not modify the standard 2.5 L Phase II engine. Enjoy your retirement and good luck with choice you should make.
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Fuel Filter
hohieu replied to pollyavis's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Welcome aboard, The fuel filter is located under the on hood on the driver's side, just behind the windshield fluid resevoir. You should put a little grease on the ends of the new filter before installation in order to ease the next replacement. Cheers -
Thanks for all the responses. I went to a trusted private Subaru mechanic this morning on my way to checking this thread, and he showed me the parking switch. My wife and I are camping in VT after having attended my brother-in-law's wedding in Northern Michigan. That long drive through Canada must have prematurely jarred a few marbles loose and made me feel "pre-senile," to use cookie's term. I may choose to think of it as an honor, though, to use mtsmiths words. Thanks, again.
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Hello all, I have a weird problem with my Forester and am currently on the road with my wife. The marker lights will not go off, even with the lights turned off and the key out of the ignition -- everything else is fine. I tried disconnecting the ground cable from the battery, but this did not do the trick: the lights came back on after I reconnected the cable. I installed a hitch a wiring harness and tried disconnecting the the latter, but nothing changed. I also tried disconnecting the rear lights which go off upon disconnection, but come immediately back on after I reconnect. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? What and where else should I check? I'll have to disconnect the battery overnight until I figure this out.
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The Phase II engines were used beginning in 1999 for Foresters so we share the same engine. External leaks are not nearly as severe as the internal variety. Make sure you check for any open recalls on the vehicles, especially for the external HG leaks. If you have this service performed, Subaru will extend its warranty to 100K miles. This recall entails adding a bottle of stop leak into the radiator, which seems to be doing the trick according to my trusted private Subaru mechanic in VT. Subaru also recommends that you add a bottle of this stuff every time the coolant is replaced. $800 is way too much for a 60K-mile tune-up. It would cost you less than $100 for the parts, coolant, and oil to do the service yourself. I suggest that as a part of the 60K service recall, you flush and refill the cooling system before you take it in for the cooling system recall service, if this service hasn't already been performed. Valves are an audial inspection at 60K so if they're not tapping, then you're good to go. You can get a tune-up kit at www.1stsubaruparts.com for about $40. Kit includes: oil filter + drain plug crush washer fuel filter spark plugs It's really not that much work and the owner's manual has instructions for all these services. Only thing to keep in mind is that you should remove the thermostat when flushing the cooling system. If you are so inclined, all these maintenance items are quite easy to perform with fairly basic tools if you are so inclined. Good luck.
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For the leather seats, Lexol conditioner and cleaner products work well, and are available at many automotive parts stores. As for the the floor mats, I don't do anything special aside from routine vacuuming and occasional washing with a garden hose so I can't offer any advice here. Factory floor mats seem to come up on ebay fairly regularly so you may want to buy a replacement set if this is a major concern. Take care.
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I had thought about this point that higher viscosity oils result in lower consumption. With a synthetic oil, I suspect that these last line of defense additives almost never come into play at normal (sane) operating conditions. What oil companies sell high sulfur gasoline? Great website; I had never looked at this one. All my info. about motor oils has come from motorcycle websites, where the emphasis is on those without friction modifiers, which reputedly causes wet clutches to slip. Almost all motorcycles do not have a catalytic converter so I've been running diesel oils in mine for years.
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I see nothing in the operator's instructions for the OEM system about disarming the chirps that you hear when locking and unlocking the car. I also have an alarm system in my car, and there is a horn-shaped plastic siren mounted under the hood toward the rear passenger side. You could disconnect the wires to the siren or checkto see if there is a seperate fuse that you could remove to disarm the it; this would also disarm the the alarm but probably not the starter interupt function. In my car, this sets off the panic alarm, which you would presumably do if you were to be mugged near your car. Good luck.