ruparts

hi, they are just running lights ( like park lights) as far as I know.

hi, you might try another coil bracket,, there is a transistor made on it and if bad it will not start.. they are a known trouble part.

hi, i'm not saying you need another cat, but i can say the aftermarket cats that shops put on here in tx are so bad they usually won't pass even 1 year later. ( we only have to pass smog till the car is 25 years old, then no test , just the safety stuff). the quality of aftermarket cats is very bad, there should be some fed standard they have to meet to even be available on the market, i don't think that is the case though. usually a good tune guy can tell what is not right by which of the numbers are bad, an o2 sensor is cheap enough to throw on for good measure, but a good diagnostic guy can narrow it down.

hi, short answer is no, because the pipes are actually double ,, a smaller pipe inside a larger pipe, front to back. the pipe you can see, the outer one, is "about 1- 3/4" maybe, but the actual diameter of the inner pipe is much less, maybe 1-1/2 or less. you will get some discussion on what size is best for these cars, but the OEM pipes are not what they appear to be,, you cannot judge the size by the outside pipe, the inner pipe is the real exhaust size and it's pretty small.

hi, not too sure about the marks, but i've seen some clutch discs have short strands of what appear to be brass wire imbedded in the fiber of the disc, factory not accidental. as for the oil , if your motor has that metal plate cover on the back of the block, it's behind the flywheel, the gasket on those are bad to seep or outright blow oil ,, it's a area that is subject to crankcase pressure, so if the pcv system has any abnormal pressure it tends to force oil vapor out the weakest place?? and i've never encountered one of those covers that the screws were not just finger tight. i think they get loose as the gasket shrinks or maybe it's the planned obselessence thing at work by having a cover that is bound to leak in a couple of years time.

hi, are you sure you didn't overlook a head bolt that is still holding it??

hi, ++ what tom said,, they are not metal,, folks say that because they seem hard and almost seem to be. they are rubber covered and some type stiff material, they do not deform shape under pressure of compression when the case is tourqued onto the head, and the rubber forms a seal for the oil. they should look more like a rubber coated washer than an o-ring , and be pretty stiff. if you use standard rubber orings they squish and block the oil hole. i only wish they had done something like this and as well as this for the mickey mouse gasket on the oil pump.

hi, +1 what he said, forget aftermarket cables, go to subaru for the real deal and no more money either, and no problems either. as for what you are having now, the casing is slipping on the fittings, or is compressing, and well it's an aftermarket cable, and is no good anymore.

Hi, pretty sure the glass for the hatch is all alone, i know for sure the 4dr and wagon don't fit it, and the brat is different, the only "maybe" is the 2dr coupe model, and i don't think it is the same either since it has a trim on the back edge. someone here might know for sure but i think nothing else is the same glass. sorry for the bad news.

hi, 87 XT-T, with the push button select 4x4 5-spd trans. i am planning to tow my xtt on a tow dolley ( long trip) with rear wheels on road, i'm thinking i need to remove the rear half of the driveshaft so it doesn't turn all the trans internal stuff, no problem, but want to know, will it still drive onto, and off of, the dolly with it in FWD and no rear shaft?? i guess the better question is will it still move itself around ok to get out of the shop, on the dolley, off again, and back in the shop without the rear half of the driveshaft? i don't plan to run it this way, just enough to get it on and back off the tow dolley. thanks for input

hi, i had followed your issues but after all the try this and that you now have good compression on #3 , yes, but not #1? if this is correct and the motor runs although poorly, and it doesn't cough back through the intake manifold,, it most likely is the exhaust valve on #1 , and the compression is passing out the exhaust. low compression can be broken piston, bad rings, bad head gasket, valve not closing to its seat, even a broken spring. so if compression on 3 is back to normal then the belt is ok , and you need to focus on why 1 is not. my thought is the exhaust valve is not closing all the way, , either stuck or bent stem. no reason to suspect the rings or the head gasket if they were good before this belt issue. i have seen the little rocker get shifted to the side and not sit on the valve stem properly, and still run and stay in place, there is a notch in the rocker tip, the valve stem has to sit inside the notch or it can't close all the way, i've done it myself. if this is it, close inspection you might see there is not quite a straight alignment between valve tip and lifter tip, and the rocker might look tilted a little. just a thought. second thought, if the intake rocker on #1 has fell out of place and not opening the intake valve, the compression would be very low, the cylinder would get some air during the exhaust valve closing after the exhaust stroke passes tdc, but not enough to make proper compression. ( i have personally had the rockers fall out of place before) pull the right side valve cover and do a close inspection, , rotate the crank by socket and ratchet and look for anything different on 1, from 3 , also stop with #1 at tdc compression,, you can use the ignition timing "0" mark on the flywheel, ( has to be compression, not exhaust, since the mark will line up at both), and see if both valves on #1 look to be fully closed or if the spring retainers are level with each other. check the rockers to see if they are loose in place. a collapsed lifter, something broken, something don't move when rotating the crank, close inspection.

hi, installed in the head, they do not move, they just sit and the rocker cam followers compress against them. they should be solid feeling but the tip is actually a piston that is pumped up by oil pressure. if you cannot compress them by pushing them against a bench top, probably good. the ones that have some movement by pushing on the tip may be questionable, or it may just have bled the oil out of it. did they click and why are you concerned? they do not show signs of wear since they don't move any, only the tip is exposed to pressure (valve spring pressure) when the cam and rocker action open the valves. most problems are from lack of proper oil change schedule and they get sticky internally from dirty oil.

hi, i did not know that, , thank you for the information and the specs to go by if trying to repair an old block, see, old people can learn new stuff !!

hi, i want to say that if you shave the deck, you should do both halves to make the engine "equal" on compression side to side,, but most i want to say i saw some head spacer plates for the subaru, i think it was rock auto, basically they look like a head gasket but solid, .020 if my memory is right, and were not expensive.. if you can locate those the deck height dimention can get back close. ( confirmed, rock auto > subaru >1987 >gl >1.8sohc > engine > cylinder head shim ,, 6 available.) if you deck it might want these. i agree the clean and fill aproach others mentioned is worth a try, the head gasket will do the rest , FEL-PRO perma-torque. that part on the cylinder liner edge is the main thing.

hi, sorry i dont have any way to do that, maybe someone can, i thought we have a fsm on the board someone scanned the whole set and is available , not sure on that. anyway , take a close look at the little rubber hoses that are on the mode control, they are about 2' long to my memory, and used to connect to the plastic tubing, seems i remember they have a color stripe on them or a number printed on them, been a while but i know there was id on the stuff. also the same for the vac unit connections, the actual pipes are plastic , the little hose connectors are the ones. member suprjohn just got through going through his entire system, maybe his memory is fresh.