ruparts

hi, they are just running lights ( like park lights) as far as I know.

hi, you might try another coil bracket,, there is a transistor made on it and if bad it will not start.. they are a known trouble part.

hi, i'm not saying you need another cat, but i can say the aftermarket cats that shops put on here in tx are so bad they usually won't pass even 1 year later. ( we only have to pass smog till the car is 25 years old, then no test , just the safety stuff). the quality of aftermarket cats is very bad, there should be some fed standard they have to meet to even be available on the market, i don't think that is the case though. usually a good tune guy can tell what is not right by which of the numbers are bad, an o2 sensor is cheap enough to throw on for good measure, but a good diagnostic guy can narrow it down.

hi, short answer is no, because the pipes are actually double ,, a smaller pipe inside a larger pipe, front to back. the pipe you can see, the outer one, is "about 1- 3/4" maybe, but the actual diameter of the inner pipe is much less, maybe 1-1/2 or less. you will get some discussion on what size is best for these cars, but the OEM pipes are not what they appear to be,, you cannot judge the size by the outside pipe, the inner pipe is the real exhaust size and it's pretty small.

hi, not too sure about the marks, but i've seen some clutch discs have short strands of what appear to be brass wire imbedded in the fiber of the disc, factory not accidental. as for the oil , if your motor has that metal plate cover on the back of the block, it's behind the flywheel, the gasket on those are bad to seep or outright blow oil ,, it's a area that is subject to crankcase pressure, so if the pcv system has any abnormal pressure it tends to force oil vapor out the weakest place?? and i've never encountered one of those covers that the screws were not just finger tight. i think they get loose as the gasket shrinks or maybe it's the planned obselessence thing at work by having a cover that is bound to leak in a couple of years time.

hi, are you sure you didn't overlook a head bolt that is still holding it??

hi, ++ what tom said,, they are not metal,, folks say that because they seem hard and almost seem to be. they are rubber covered and some type stiff material, they do not deform shape under pressure of compression when the case is tourqued onto the head, and the rubber forms a seal for the oil. they should look more like a rubber coated washer than an o-ring , and be pretty stiff. if you use standard rubber orings they squish and block the oil hole. i only wish they had done something like this and as well as this for the mickey mouse gasket on the oil pump.

hi, +1 what he said, forget aftermarket cables, go to subaru for the real deal and no more money either, and no problems either. as for what you are having now, the casing is slipping on the fittings, or is compressing, and well it's an aftermarket cable, and is no good anymore.

Hi, pretty sure the glass for the hatch is all alone, i know for sure the 4dr and wagon don't fit it, and the brat is different, the only "maybe" is the 2dr coupe model, and i don't think it is the same either since it has a trim on the back edge. someone here might know for sure but i think nothing else is the same glass. sorry for the bad news.

hi, 87 XT-T, with the push button select 4x4 5-spd trans. i am planning to tow my xtt on a tow dolley ( long trip) with rear wheels on road, i'm thinking i need to remove the rear half of the driveshaft so it doesn't turn all the trans internal stuff, no problem, but want to know, will it still drive onto, and off of, the dolly with it in FWD and no rear shaft?? i guess the better question is will it still move itself around ok to get out of the shop, on the dolley, off again, and back in the shop without the rear half of the driveshaft? i don't plan to run it this way, just enough to get it on and back off the tow dolley. thanks for input

hi, i had followed your issues but after all the try this and that you now have good compression on #3 , yes, but not #1? if this is correct and the motor runs although poorly, and it doesn't cough back through the intake manifold,, it most likely is the exhaust valve on #1 , and the compression is passing out the exhaust. low compression can be broken piston, bad rings, bad head gasket, valve not closing to its seat, even a broken spring. so if compression on 3 is back to normal then the belt is ok , and you need to focus on why 1 is not. my thought is the exhaust valve is not closing all the way, , either stuck or bent stem. no reason to suspect the rings or the head gasket if they were good before this belt issue. i have seen the little rocker get shifted to the side and not sit on the valve stem properly, and still run and stay in place, there is a notch in the rocker tip, the valve stem has to sit inside the notch or it can't close all the way, i've done it myself. if this is it, close inspection you might see there is not quite a straight alignment between valve tip and lifter tip, and the rocker might look tilted a little. just a thought. second thought, if the intake rocker on #1 has fell out of place and not opening the intake valve, the compression would be very low, the cylinder would get some air during the exhaust valve closing after the exhaust stroke passes tdc, but not enough to make proper compression. ( i have personally had the rockers fall out of place before) pull the right side valve cover and do a close inspection, , rotate the crank by socket and ratchet and look for anything different on 1, from 3 , also stop with #1 at tdc compression,, you can use the ignition timing "0" mark on the flywheel, ( has to be compression, not exhaust, since the mark will line up at both), and see if both valves on #1 look to be fully closed or if the spring retainers are level with each other. check the rockers to see if they are loose in place. a collapsed lifter, something broken, something don't move when rotating the crank, close inspection.

hi, installed in the head, they do not move, they just sit and the rocker cam followers compress against them. they should be solid feeling but the tip is actually a piston that is pumped up by oil pressure. if you cannot compress them by pushing them against a bench top, probably good. the ones that have some movement by pushing on the tip may be questionable, or it may just have bled the oil out of it. did they click and why are you concerned? they do not show signs of wear since they don't move any, only the tip is exposed to pressure (valve spring pressure) when the cam and rocker action open the valves. most problems are from lack of proper oil change schedule and they get sticky internally from dirty oil.

hi, i did not know that, , thank you for the information and the specs to go by if trying to repair an old block, see, old people can learn new stuff !!

hi, i want to say that if you shave the deck, you should do both halves to make the engine "equal" on compression side to side,, but most i want to say i saw some head spacer plates for the subaru, i think it was rock auto, basically they look like a head gasket but solid, .020 if my memory is right, and were not expensive.. if you can locate those the deck height dimention can get back close. ( confirmed, rock auto > subaru >1987 >gl >1.8sohc > engine > cylinder head shim ,, 6 available.) if you deck it might want these. i agree the clean and fill aproach others mentioned is worth a try, the head gasket will do the rest , FEL-PRO perma-torque. that part on the cylinder liner edge is the main thing.

hi, sorry i dont have any way to do that, maybe someone can, i thought we have a fsm on the board someone scanned the whole set and is available , not sure on that. anyway , take a close look at the little rubber hoses that are on the mode control, they are about 2' long to my memory, and used to connect to the plastic tubing, seems i remember they have a color stripe on them or a number printed on them, been a while but i know there was id on the stuff. also the same for the vac unit connections, the actual pipes are plastic , the little hose connectors are the ones. member suprjohn just got through going through his entire system, maybe his memory is fresh.

hi, i believe the splines for the xt6 disc is the same as the d/r 4x4 trans. the step on the flywheel is a different depth between xt6 and the 1.8 loyale type cars. so the clutch is designed for the step spec on the xt6 flywheel. that would not cause the trans shaft to not go in, it does have clamping force implications though. folks have the 1.8 flywheel step machined to the xt6 step height to use the xt6 clutch set. however if you got the disc centered over the pilot bearing just right,, it should slide in. the usual problem ( for me) is misalignment of the trans and engine,, the lower bolts are a good start but it has to be square up ,, check the gap between the bottom of the trans bell housing and the block and compare to the gap at the top of the bell housing and block.. you might also try turning the crank a bit as you go, sometimes the splines hit on edge and just need to tiny turn to slip in place. shaft and disc is a precision fit so everything has to be aligned pretty much "right on", or it don't go. possibility they gave you the wrong disc,,? there is a smaller spline that went with the 200mm diameter clutches,, it does not work for the 4x4 trans.

hi, tried looking this up in the 88fsm, they only show the vacuum hose layout in the heater section, "and list USA models" and "canada models" .. the USA chart is shown using colors to identify the locations, do you have any color ID to work with on your mode panel, either the plastic tubes or the rubber hoses or in print on the hoses anything indicating color id?? book shows , white, red, yellow, and a 4th one no color id is the one goes to the firewall and to manifold vac, it also has a one way check valve inline shown inside the vehicle, ? i have one in engine bay side, don't know if there is another.. from the mode switch panel,, the white id hose is the one going to the 45 degree vac thing up high on the left,, red goes to the other one, horizontal on left.. both the white and the red are shown to go into some sort of "connector unit thing" its not identified in the book,, before they get to their designated vac units. yellow is the one goes to the vac actuator that works the internal / external air flow, is mounted on the blower case. the canada model cars use a number id , white is 1,, red is 2,, blue is 3,, but the routing and vac units for them is fairly different from the usa layout. the horizontal vac unit has two hoses, red(2) just like usa,, but blue(3) out the other end. the 45degree unit gets white(1) same as usa. the main difference is they have a air inlet control switch "teed" in,, it is the line from engine vac , and the T is before the mode switch. one side of the T continues on to the air inlet control switch, the T side goes to the mode panel,, blue (3)position,, the air inlet control switch has 2 connections, neither of them is marked as to which is which.. one comes in from the T and the other goes to the blower case vac actuator unit, no color or number shown. maybe this can help some

hi, the bolt holes for the flywheel / crank only fit in 1 position, it looks close but there will be 1 that won't quite line up, till it's in correct position,, designed to be no way to mess it up. if you had the disc surface machined , did you have them machine the clutch cover mounting surface machined the same amount ? this is necessary to maintain proper clamping force of the clutch. there is a factory spec for the step dimention, but i don't have it at hand, someone will have that for sure, you should check it before you put this all back in..

no, it needs to be 82-84, maybe 81, or up to 87 brat, or up to 89- ea81style hatchback,, but i have seen the actual mounts that fit between the sub frame and the body, , there are some sandwich with rubber mounts,, and they differ by year even in the 82-84 cars so there are variations even there. i think you can swap them if you use everything from one or the other but if you get to remove the parts you buy, be sure to get those as well.

hi, they are not just a flat plate type thing, it is precision fitted on dowel pins to the block, and the crankshaft rear main seal is fitted into it as well, also it seals an inch or so of the rear of the oil pan on the bottom of it. i think there is a gasket between it and the block too but can't remember for sure. it definately closes off the rear of the block and is integral to it. anyway point is, it's a lot more involved than the ea82 block plate bell houseing. dimentions i can't help but someone might send you one to work with, should be plenty of them, , there are auto trans ones and manual trans ones , can't say if they are the same or not,, and there are 1.8 ea81 and 1.7 or 1.6 , ea71, so be aware there are several variations perhaps.

hi, that guide ring is pressed onto the drive gear, it is not available as a replacement part. the oil pump has one on both sides of the gear if i remember correctly. you should be able to replace the drive gear with one from another pump if you can locate one. i would suggest you replace all the timing tensioners and idler because it seems like your belt had been rubbing this shoulder ring which indicates that something is misalligned and causing the belt to run toward that side. anyway a new timing set and drive gear for the pump should get you going. check the bolt hole for the idler gear sometimes that hole is wallowed and lets the idler tilt and shift the belt, tensioners wear and tilt slightly, same issue belt runs offline.

hi, is this for a car, , ?? just some idea what it should fit might help.

Hi, this was someone elses thread but in the interest of overall information,, the off position on the mode switch, and all the various modes,, is more/less a function of directing vacuum to various flapper doors in the system,, it does have an electrical switch component to it, "off" , is supposed to turn off the power to the blower fan circuit, the resistors are farther downline. any position except off on the mode switch is supposed to allow power to the blower circuit, and, direct vacuum to move the air doors to allow that selection. if the any doors are stuck or a bad vac actuator then there will be problems with air flow getting where it should.

hi, i just had a T-belt incident, it was preceeded by a noise that i could not quite locate,, turned out it was the idler bearing on the left side saying "i'm dry, help me". point is you should do a routine check and see if you have a tight idler or tensioner bearing that might be the the noise,,, and the rotor hanging up could have put enough tension on the dist shaft to pull the belt a tooth off position.

hi, if the mode switch is in "any" position other than off, the fan circuit is receiving power to run the fan, and the fan should be running at whatever speed it's switch is set on. the resistor can have 1 or more bad speeds, but the circuit is powered. if the blower motor is drawing excessive load to run it, (like a tight bearing or debris in the fan, etc.) it will heat the wires. also a bad ground somewhere in the circuit can cause extra heat in the connections.