ruparts

Hi, I have a New genuine subaru right front fender for Impreza 97-2001 , love to sell for near half of online price, $80. the list is $184.95 , online price i got was $139.42 , so $80. + shipping paid by buyer. still in original box but has some extra packing to ship. part# is 57110FA000 thanks

hi, i lost the xt board web address, would someone post it please. thanks

hi, the coil should match whatever brand distributor you have , either nippondenso or hitachi , no telling what duralast has conjured up. in my humble opinion autozone is the last place you should be shopping, i've had very good luck finding parts online from some ebay vendors, especially check out rock auto , and some from guys here selling parts no longer needed . the filters are pretty common , the cap,rotor and wires are common, i've bought wire sets under $10 that fit ea82 motors from rock auto , autozone is a space cadet zone as far as old subarus are concerned.

hi, yes, take the wheel off and there is a metal shield that covers the filler pipe (hose) . it is clamped onto the tank neck , and the fill opening piece up top. it may be a pita to get access to the clamp screw unless it happens to be just so-so , but if it is , you can loosen the bolts that hold the tank so it can lower just a bit to get at them. that hose is a very rigid and formed type hose , not at all like a radiator hose , and i think it might have different sizes at either end. it could be the tank has rust above the seam , a lot of mud and stuff collects there , and it just appears like the hose leaking. have to inspect for sure.

hi, in the overall i think the all metal ones are a better part , but if you can get the 2 row core version you will have much better cooling capacity than the standard single row. probably looking for a turbo version to get a two row, do a search on here , this has been covered several times with part numbers & prices & supplier companies too.

hi, all of the original ea82 exhaust , including the y-pipe, and all the way back is double piped , the original ones that is. all replacements i have seen , even dealer pieces ( which are made by someone else here in the states now ) were single pipe.

hi, + 1 for what he says, the bolt is supposed to clamp the ball joint but it also goes through the side of the ball joint in a reduced diameter section so the ball joint is like "locked in" even if the bolt is not tight . if you really want to fix it you could install a heli-coil repair in the knuckle .

hi , all the rear brake parts will swap out , but the rear 4wd backing plates have a bigger center hole that fits around the spindle than the 2wd backing plates.

((( THAT SEAL LOOKS LIKE IT IS INSTALLED BACKWARDS !!! ))) IF IT IS , NO SURPRISE IT LEAKS the hollow side goes in toward the front of the engine.

hi, just so you will be aware of it, the axle will slide on the trans stubs in any spline , however only 1 will line up exactly , the half way around will look like it lines up right , but is just a 1/2 tooth off and will definately bind the pins , and be very difficult. the last guy may have put it back like that and therby causing you the problem , i have had to take a few out that were put on 1/2 round out of alignment , the pin goes in almost but not really . even with the right punch they will not be easy, and a smaller pinch can help too. just saying maybe this is what happened.

hi, i think maybe they gave you a set for a 2WD , or at least the bearing , they use a separate piece for the slider and the bearing just presses onto it. another thing is the 2WD has a smaller overall outside diameter disc and clutch surface , 200 mm verses 225mm for 4x4 , or something like that , but i think both will fit the flywheel and the trans splines.

hi, the pump will only receive power for 1 to 2 seconds if you just turn on the ignition switch. if you plug together the green test connectors for checking computer codes and turn the ignition on , it will go power on and off every few seconds continually so it is easier to check for voltage , or a bad ground side. i have found several times that the ground side of the pump circuit is bad , it grounds inside the ecm , i do not know if they are fixable or not. i actually grounded the pump wire to the body near the pump and it worked fine. you may have a different problem but this might help diagnose. i'm sure you will get more info here.

hi , pm sent.

hi, i bought a new one from a subaru dealer about 2 years ago, it was like 238. on line price, which was almost cheap as an aftermarket one and it has all the shields etc. and fits right.

hi, there are no pre-formed aftermarket hoses for them , well radiator hoses , but not the ones you mean, and the dealer prices are scarey , and they probably won't be able to , or want to find the part numbers anyway.

hi, looks don't count with parts, actual readings do , the temp sensor wires & the connections to it are usually the problem rather than the actual sensor. take readings on all the parts to see if they are actually doing what they should , check for stored codes in the ecm.

hi, the threads for the ea82 head bolts are 11x1.25 , not 10x1.25 , i had to find a tap to chase threads and it was hard to come up with but i did find it. as for helicoils you might find them but it will not be a standard thing at the auto store , only a specialty supply will have that odd size, and you need the long ones , almost an inch of threads go into the block , most helicoils are like half that long but they do make longer ones.

hi, sounds like the fast idle screw ( hard to find its in the back )_and choke release may need some adjustment . especially if it has a cooler temp thermostat than original. you need to set the main idle when its fully at operating temp , after setting the fast idle and choke when cold.

hi, that hole with the screwdriver is the EGR pipe hole , it goes on the passenger side ® side of the engine . i see you don't have it mounted yet, put it on the other side.

hi, i think most folks here would say no, don't do it. even a carbed or spfi ea82 is a better way to go , if you have to get rid of the ea81, best is a ej22 , they have more power than a ea82t and is a far superior motor. if you must , you would also need a front crossmember from a turbo brat or wagon , this for the exhaust to clear going to the turbo. and yes all the wiring and ecm, the maf and intake tube , the flywheel , exhaust downpipe , probably more stuff i am not thinking of. just do an ej swap , or keep the stock ea81 , maybe do a spfi on it .

hi, you can't take anything for granted on an old vehicle ! about your headlight issue , since you are in that area of the clutch cable- - find the main wiring harness that comes through the bulkhead , follow it up a few inches and look for a single (black heavy gage wire )that branches off , its a main ground wire and mine was not grounded and caused issues just as you described. the black wire aprox 5-7 inches long from the harness , should have a ring terminal on it , but could have been cut or , who knows ? anyway put it to a good ground on the bulkhead if possible , this sure fixed my lights problems and weird other electrical stuff that was going on.

hi , i think the 2 solinoids , one is for activation of the egr valve , the other is for purge of the fuel vapor systen , i don't think either has anything to do with 4wd or the transmission.

hi , this looks like the purge solinoid for sure but it is for purge of the fuel vapor system and has Nothing to do with the egr valve. the other one is the egr solinoid and has Nothing to do with the auto trans, 4wd or purge.. it does not purge the egr it causes it to operate, the purge sol is not the same thing. the egr sol will have 2 hoses going to it and 2 hose nipples on it. i think you might have some vac lines confused if one of these is tied to your trans vac line.

hi, i have a 82 edition FSM that i would sell , 45 delivered , it is in very good condition and nothing torn or missing.

hi, the cts is the main thing that controls the fuel mix, so yes it can definately be your main problem. the wires to the sensor are many times the problem on it however. there is usually corrosion on the connection and sometimes it even extends up the wires inside the insulation several inches. most guys just get a new connector with wire pigtails and splice in away from the sensor. it is the same connector like a fuel injector so they are easy to get from an auto supply store. also you need to check carefully for any air and vacuum leaks anywhere on the intake system and pcv hoses and air intake plumbing.